If you would please tell us what is wrong with your P38 maybe we can get you on the right track.
there are at least 5 people here who know quite well how they work
Got a bit of experience myself, spares and good counsel
annette is quite correct. The BeCM often gets the blame when the actual fault is the fusebox, door latches or something else. If we knew why you think you need a BeCM repair then we might be able to pinpoint the fault to what is really the cause.
Scotty is only a one day transit by ground away and knows all the right questions to ask. If the OP contacts Scotty he will be up and running in less than a week IF it is a real BeCM issue. If not Scotty can give him advice to get him up and running much faster.
Thanks All for the replies...sorry, I am a Rover newbie. I was told by the mechanic that the BECM had a poor connection and that I could expect it to fail sooner rather than later. Two days later, the truck would not start.
Over the last month there have been instances where the engine would just shut off or not start. The first time I was on the highway going 60 mph and the engine just stopped. There was still power (meaning the radio was on etc.) but the engine stopped. I was able to get to the side of the road and the truck would not start for about 5 minutes and then it suddenly started again. (I just quit driving it on the freeway).
A few times after that, it would run a leg or two on errands and then would not start for a day or two. It would then start up and be okay...that is when I took it back to the shop. This last time - (2 days after I picked it up), I drove the truck the work and tried to drive it home at the end of the day and it has been there for about a week now. There is power, so it is not a battery issue but the engine will not turn over....totally dead. Would really love to fix, but the dealership and local mechanic here in town are at an impass - they had already replaced a faulty fuse to clear faults, but that did not solve the starting issue...sent Scotty an email, so hoping for hope here...
With a diagnosis like that, I would have run, not walked away from that mechanic8-0= His pat diagnosis is the same as a doctor saying: "You may have have stubbed your toe, you need a super expensive heart transplant or you will die sooner or later!"......While technically true, you will indeed die, I would not be seeing that doctor again......
It sounds like the initial issue is a failing / failed Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
When this starts to fail,you get exactly what you have described. (Hint: carry a spare in the cubby)
If it was still running, you can test for this by spraying the CPS with cold water after engine stalls. If it starts right back up, replace the CPS. Also would not hurt to check the plug and wires leading to it......
No one at a Range Rover dealership seems to know anything about these trucks anymore, and sadly, it seems your local mechanic may not have a deep enough knowledge base either.
In any event, now that it will not even crank, I would speculate that between the dealer and the mechanic, they have done something to annoy (NOT break) the Becm, and it has immobilized itself.
You just cannot go blindly blundering around on a P-38.
Your best bet is a chat with Dr Scotty.
It sounds like you’ve got a cable gone down, these are known to have the main power cable to the starter to go, most people who change it, also run a separate cable directly from the battery to the alternator, easy enough to hold a jump lead in place and get someone to try and crank it over, if that starts it and you still get the sudden no start, check the CPS