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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a used 2011 Range Rover HSE. I need to change the battery since it is the Original battery and has died. I purchased a Sears Diehard AGM Gold battery (Plate Type battery with 850 CCA (OEM had 800 CCA). I disconnected the battery terminals as well as the 2 long hold down screws. The problem I'm having is that I am unable to pull the battery out of the battery compartment. In front of the battery is some sort of computer with a fan, so I can't remove the battery that way thru the front. I also can't pull it straight up towards the windshield because of the overhang of the plastic windshield surround. So i think the only way to remove the battery is either to remove the computer in front of the battery or the remove the plastic windshield surround above the battery and pull it straight up. One other question is that I read something about a "RESET" to something after a battery change, not sure what that means. If anyone has some insight on these two things via a link of tutorial, that would be great too. Please help. Thanks in advance.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #3
The dealer I purchased the vehicle from ended up coming to my house, picked up my RR, installed the battery I had just purchased ($200), dropped the car back off and reimbursed me for the battery ($200). All at no charge to me whatsoever. That was some customer service. Thanks for the response. All is good now!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Batteries and their compartments are made to be easy to take out so if you're having problems it's probably because you're not creating a *clear* path for its extraction. Can you provide pics so we can see what your problem is?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Thanks Stranger. Yes, I looked at those links but the 2010+ have computer wedged in the battery box that is not there is previous model years. I thought maybe I was missing something but it seems the only way is to remove this and the associated wiring harness.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Here are the two links again...

The hoods on these have two positions. In the "normal" position there is NOT enough room through which to extract a stock size battery. However, the "Service Position" does make the required removal/installation procedure possible.

First link details step by step procedure, while the second link shows video of procedure.


http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...atreplace.html

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3It-Kjdw0f0
Not the same car (LHD vs RHD) nor vintage. 2010s and newer are different. I had the same problem the OP described, you need a special 5 star torq style tool to get the computer out of the way in order to pull the battery out. Its quite a stupid design in fact. the older units are a lot easier.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Not the same car (LHD vs RHD) nor vintage. 2010s and newer are different. I had the same problem the OP described, you need a special 5 star torq style tool to get the computer out of the way in order to pull the battery out. Its quite a stupid design in fact. the older units are a lot easier.
Thank you! Always glad to learn somethng new....
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I just replaced the battery in my 2011 HSE. Definitely a different procedure than that described in the links above for the 2006 RHD. in addition to detaching the gas lifts for the hood, you also need to remove the ECU from the front of the battery compartment in order to make the room necessary to get the old battery out and the new battery in. One of the key tools you'll need is security torx driver to remove one of the machine screws that holds the ECU case in place. Not sure if it's a T30 or T27. You'll also need a 10mm and 11mm socket. Other than needing the right tools, pay attention to the wiring harness connections into the ECU to make sure you get them back together correctly, and ensure they are properly aligned before closing the latches on the connectors. Entire process took about 30 minutes.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I just finished on my US 2011 HSE. By far the most difficult and nerve-wracking battery replacement I've encountered. Here are a few notes:

Raise hood to service position.

Remove two battery hold-down rods and clamps with a 10mm socket or large Phillips.

Use 10 and 13mm sockets to remove battery post clamps.

You'll need a T30 5-point tamperproof bit to remove the one screw holding the metal cover over the two large ECU connectors. None were available locally, so I bought this set and driver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7R2N9Y/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E62NIC/
I'll keep these in the car in case I need to have the battery replaced on the road sometime.

Lift the red levers carefully and remove the two large and one small ECU connectors, pull wiring harnesses aside.

Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the single nut under the ECU, remove ECU from car.

Use a standard T30 6-point bit to remove the two screws holding the hood position switch, move switch aside.

Finally you have clearance to remove the battery. I stood with one foot on a stepladder and the other on the strut tower. My new battery weighs 57 pounds.

Reassembly is the reverse. My clock and a few other settings need to be restored. I hope I won't need another for a few years.

Here's the AGM battery I used from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/super-start-platinum-5003/battery-accessories-16452/battery---automotive-16864/battery-12836/battery/49plt/4742701/2011/land-rover/range-rover
 

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Thank you for linking to the tutorial, very instructive.

I'm trying to change out the battery on my 2010 L322 now. How much force does it take to remove the ECU once the T30 nut/cover, ECU pin connectors and 10mm nut holding the ECU in place are removed?

The ECU will move side to side, but won't release from the firewall. I don't know if the bracket is plastic and certainly don't want to bend or break it. Am I missing something?
 

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Please disregard, the ECU bracket on the 2010 is plastic and was wedged in the slot on the firewall. This occurred because I was rocking and pulling the ECU at an angle away from the firewall. It came loose fairly easily once I reseated it, then put my hands underneath the ECU to remove it. Make sure that you work the ECU up parallel to the firewall or you risk breaking the plastic bracket.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Sears is offering to install it for $9.99. Can I trust them to do this? Anyone who has done Sears battery install with a range rover in the past?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Good info!

Did the 2010+ come with AGM batteries from the factory?
 

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I wound up drilling/screw extracting the pentalobe bolt and replacing it with a regular hex head bolt. You DO need that cover, because it's what holds the ECU into the plastic housing with the fan.
 
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