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This is about a 2003 Range Rover..battery reads it is from 2011.
Came out to the garage this morning, car was dead..lights and console/radio on but just a click when I turned the key. Got it jump started and took it up to interstate battery. They checked the voltage and said it was fully charged..I was confused because 1) it was just completely dead and 2) Interstate Battery is less than 5 minutes from my house so it surely hadn't had enough time to completely recharge. I turn the key and sure enough, it turns on normal..no pause or struggle starting up that you usually have when a battery is dying..So I assumed it was some random fluke, got on the highway and did some laps for about 30 minutes just to leave it on longer then I drove home. I just went out to my car (its been about 6 hours since I had parked it) and it is dead again. I checked for codes while I was at it...no codes, no service engine light. Anyone ever had or heard of this issue? Prior to this, and when it was running today, everything was running fine.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Try pulling on the ballistic terminal it may have come loose, if so you may need a new positive terminal.

try twisting the battery terminals they may be corroded and loose.
after the twist test then remove the terminals and clean them,
also check that all of the other wire connections are tight for ground and positive
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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NOTE there are a few positive wire connections as the hot wire works its way to the alternator and the starter,
you wouldnt be the first to discover that one of these connections was loose, this would cause what your describing
 

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I had this problem on my 02 model. It took months to find But it turned out to be the interior heater fan coming on while the car was parked. Had to replace some "spiky" unit at the base of the centre consol.
 

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I had this issue as well... Seemed like dead battery despite full charge and good voltage at the alternator... IMO the easiest way to fix this is remove the negative, clean, make sure the leads look perfect... Then do the same to the hot side, remove the fire wall jump wire, clean, follow to behind the engine near the heater core, clean... Reconnect everything. I found one of the wires at the junction box behind the engine was loose/shorting causing too low a voltage for the starter.
 
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