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Battery was going within 3 days unused . Checked current draw & it showed 1.02 , pulled fuses 1 by 1 & found fuse that said front door amplifiers drawing most , but thay are disconnected its got a standard cd /radio . After taking thatfuse out it drops to .35 amps & after pulling the rest found the clock /radio / console fuse was doing it & after pulling it droped to .02 amps . . I had the battery 2 yeas old 600 ccca tested & its ok . SO is that .35A ( 4.2 watts ) normal draw when unused seems a lot for just the clock , radio only on with ign / aux .
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Yea, I would agree on that being too much. I would double check that nothing aftermarket is wired/tapped in to the same power source. What fuse #'s did you pull, and also what is the year/make/model of your rover?
 

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You say it's got a standard CD/Radio yet no P38 had a CD unless you mean the changer in the boot. A standard radio would also need the door amps so it sounds like your definition of 'standard' is an normal car radio not a standard P38 fit one. I'd suspect the door amps are still connected to permanent power rather than switched by the head unit.
 

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i don't know a lot about the electricals but I do know that with the radio left on in acc key position will flatten your battery . what happens when you turn the ignition off.
 

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If an aftermarket stereo was installed, I have seen the remote turn-on and the mail voltage supply wire connected together. This will leave the system in idle current with the key off. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK This is a 99 ex jap spec RR 4L Sem . Radio/cd is standard after mart pioneer only on with accc /ign no remote & all the door & sub amps & remote cd changer dissconnected & removed Disconecting radio makes no difference . Going to try & locate the wiring for the analouge clock & see if thats causing it Amps were 1.2 origonaly but found driver seat heater drawing .85 amps so dissconected that . This is happening while the car is s off unlocked & left for several days . The fuse that says " radi o clock console instuments " if I pull it amps drop to .02 which is obviously the ECU s memorys oh & the air bag systems has been removed too
 

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Probably not related, but for info I have parasitic drain caused by the alternator pack - got 30v AC across the terminals when car is running
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Probably not related, but for info I have parasitic drain caused by the alternator pack - got 30v AC across the terminals when car is running
Certainly not related, oh, and the clock uses a few ma at most.
Have you determined that the Becm is going to sleep, and not being kept awake by nearby RF?
(cell towers, radio repeaters, transmitter sites, airports, etc...)

There are a LOT of threads covering this.......



Got to ask.....What is an "alternator pack" and where are you measuring 30v AC?
If you are getting AC and you are not on the windings prior to the rectifiers, you need a new Alt.
 

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Yup I need a new alternator as the regulator/rectifier/diode pack/plate (it has many different names depending on your age and/or location) has a faulty diode. In the old days replacing an individual diode was a common practice, now everyone seems to through away the whole alternator. The 30v AC is between the B+ on the back of the unit to the alternator body. Still chucking out 14.33v DC at the battery tho.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Ah,
Got it.
Funky output with a bunch of ripple I bet.
Probably being filtered by that big old condenser up there in front, but batteries really don't like to be filters.
If you happen to be in the US, and want a great deal on a quality rebuilt alternator, I just had an outfit in San Diego do 2 for me. I am particular, and was pleased by their service. PM me and I will give you the contact info. (Sound's like an advert, but I have nothing to do with the company)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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OK This is a 99 ex jap spec RR 4L Sem . Radio/cd is standard after mart pioneer only on with accc /ign no remote & all the door & sub amps & remote cd changer dissconnected & removed Disconecting radio makes no difference . Going to try & locate the wiring for the analouge clock & see if thats causing it Amps were 1.2 origonaly but found driver seat heater drawing .85 amps so dissconected that . This is happening while the car is s off unlocked & left for several days . The fuse that says " radi o clock console instuments " if I pull it amps drop to .02 which is obviously the ECU s memorys oh & the air bag systems has been removed too
Can you put up a picture? You say radio/cd is standard after mart (market?) in which case it could be possible the live and acc wires have been swapped and giving problems. Or also check the grey/black wire is wired in the external antenna/accessory output of the head unit (blue/white wire on a lot of aftermarket head units) If someone has wired the grey/black wire directly to power to wake the amps up, then they won't be switching off when they should.

0.02A is about right for a sleeping P38 after a couple of minutes.

Drivers seat heater constantly drawing power doesn't seem right - and almost leads towards making it worth disconnecting the power and pulling the BECM lid to see if there's any corrosion on the power board. The seat heaters are wired through a relay in the BECM - so they are disconnected from power unless the BECM powers the relay, which should only happen after an input from the HEVAC, and the engine is running... so if they're drawing power without those criteria being met, then you either have something wrong in the BECM and it's supplying power when it shouldn't, or someone has messed with the wiring to the seat heater... hard to tell what's going on without being in front of it or at least seeing some pictures I'm afraid.
 
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