[Weston.Brown]

My bass speakers have been performing poorly and rattling badly under medium volume.

I couldn't find the info in RAVE either.. I found the info here on the form about how to replace but it was scattered across 3 or four different posts so I thought I'd consolidate here.

Tech specs: two 6.5" dual voice coil 4ohm subwoofers
Install time: 45 mins to 1hr
Tools: flat head screw driver, philips screw driver, hammer, needle nose pliers, 8mm socket, allen key set (specifically 6mm, IIRC)

I am not a sound junkie but I am very pleased with the results - I'm sure a better configuration is to be found but for <$60 this can't be beat!

I used 'Dayton Audio DC160-4 6-1/2" Classic Woofer Speaker' per amv8vol recommendation purchased from amazon $24.xx ea + $7 shipping. Do not get the shielded version, it will not fit.

Instructions: (these are after the fact, they may be slightly out of order, please use logic)
- remove metal scuff plate on drivers side rear passenger door, pull straight up
- release and remove door weather strip trim
- on the seat belt trim piece use a flat head between the trim and glass and use fingers on opposite side at the very top and pull straight out. Held by pesky clips
- undo two 8mm bolts and remove large leather trim piece
- on woofer panel twist to 90 degrees the luggage tie clips and remove
- remove three woofer panel trim clips. These are the two part kind and hard to remove pry straight out. I broke one. $1.99 from LR dealer
- use allen key and remove shiny luggage hook bolt and luggage hook
- remove the large carpet spare tire cover
- the panel should be free, grab at the bottom with a steady force pull out and down
- remove 8 philips bolts and remove speaker connections
REFIT
- the new speakers will only allow you to use three of the four screws per speaker due to slightly larger diameter
- each speaker has four connections. The green and color is positive and sold green are negative
- use pliers to squeeze all eight speaker connections to ensure tight re-fitment
- check enclosure bolts for tightness as these can also cause rattle

 

[horse86]

the question is...is the poor performance due to poor OEM speakers or the amp pushing them. Putting in other speakers will only do so much if they are underpowered by the stock amp.

 

[RRToadHall]

Given the tears and failures in his old speakers I would imagine this would be a huge improvement regardless of the amp. "Poor performance" is also a subjective term. Most people are perfectly happy with a stock system while others cry it is horribly lacking.

 

[Weston.Brown]

RRToadHall is right - I'm more that satisfied considering this is a stock system that is 10+yrs old!

 

[horse86]

ahh pics hosted on certain sites don't show here. If the speakers are torn/blown then yes new ones of any kind "should' sound better. However if you put in speakers that require a lot of juice (juice the stock amp can't push) it will sound worse then simply putting in another stock speaker.

 

[Weston.Brown]

True. But according to scattered info found here there are two 4ohm speakers so I repalced with two 4ohm speakers.

You can't techinicaly buy just the factory speakers, you have to get the whole assembly and its close to $500. These speakers are supposedly very similar and only $60 theoretically restoring to oem performance.

 

[bruggabear]

hey so since there's 4 wires did you just put both positives and negatives together and than to the speakers? also idk if im right about these speakers being mini "subs" can you replace both speakers with just one 10 inch sub with the stock amp? and how would you wire it up.

 

[Weston.Brown]

Yes four wires to each speaker, the new speakers have four connections on them so no issues. I think the general consensus is replace oem OR change the enclosure, amp, and upgrade the speakers. I've really enjoyed the results and am happy over all.

 

[rlgp38]

If it's of any help,

Dayton Audio DC160-4 6-1/2" Classic Woofer Speaker
Part # 295-309
at parts-express.com

…was a perfect fit.

Needed to remount the subwoofer amp to the interior side of the enclosure, given that the speaker bottoms weren't pre-drilled and threaded to accept the amp's mounting screws, like the originals were.