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BANKS Exploration - L494 Overlanding/Touring Build

19K views 66 replies 15 participants last post by  Justin1026 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi, my names Lloyd (nickname is BANKS). I own a MY16 L494 TDV6 SE. At the time of writing this I have a one year old little boy, and it’s important to my wife and I for him to grow up around and respecting nature, camping and exploring so the vehicle needs to change to suit our needs for us to be able to comfortably and efficiently do it.

I love researching, but was quite surprised to find that very few people have actually modified and/or used the Range Rover Sport for its intended (and advertised...) purpose. I thought I’d start to document my journey in modifying/converting/upgrading the car from it’s current ‘street’ to full a overlanding/touring setup, so others can follow along as well as use my experiences and knowledge in their own builds (I’ll fall into the traps so you don’t have too haha), and serve as a historical record for people that want to do what I’ve done in the future.

My build/modification list is the following (Green means I’ve got, or installed it), I'll include part numbers where I can:

Gloss Black Style 520 20” wheels with 265/50/20 Nitto Terra Grappler AT (Installed)
ARB Linx Vehicle Controller
(In Design)
ARB Pressure Controller (In Design)
ARB Twin Compressor (In Design)
ARB 4L Air Tank (In Design)
ARB Bluetooth Comms box for TPMS (In Design)
ARB Internal TPMS Sensors (Installed - Including Spare Wheels)
Redarc Towpro Elite V3 Brake Controller (Installed)
GME XRS-370C4P Radio
(In Design)
Garmin Overlander GPS (Installed)
Quad Lock Phone Holder with Wireless Charger (Installed)
AKASO DL12 Rearview Mirror Dashcam (Installed)
Rhino Rack 52101 (1528 x 1376mm) Platform & Associated Accessories (Installed)

  • RTS551 Rails
  • 6 x RLT600 Legs
    • 5 degree Wedge (QMW05)
    • 10mm Spacers (QMHD10)
  • Ladder (RAFL)
  • Ladder Holder (RUFLB)
  • 4 x Maxtrax Mk II & Custom Brackets (Razed Products)
  • 4kg Gas Bottle Holder (RGBH4)
  • Spare Wheel Holder (RSWH)
  • UHF Folding Bracket (43196)
  • Stow It Shovel Holder (RIST) with Custom Brackets (Razed Products)
STEDI 50.8” Curved LED Light Bar (ST2K-50-20L) (Installed)
  • STEDI Pioneer Lightbar Bracket (BRKRHINO-RACK)
  • Rhino Rack Maxtrax Support Brackets (43197) to provide additional support for the ST2K-50-20L
STEDI 23.3” LED Light Bar (ST3303-PRO-32L) (Installed)
  • AutoElecOZ L494 LED Light Bar Grill Bracket (L494LB)
STEDI 7.3” LED Flood Lights (ST3520-7-18W)
  • STEDI Side Brackets (BRKST3K-SDE)
The Bush Company 270XT Awning (Installed)
Custom Draws (In Design)
Dometic CFX3 55IM Fridge (Installed)
Custom Dual Lithium Battery Setup (In Design)
  • ITECHWORLD 120X 100ah Lithium Battery
  • Sirmarine PICO Display
  • SCQ25 Quad Shunt
  • SC301 Shunt
  • Redarc 1250D BCDC
  • EGON DC Hub
LED Interior Light Upgrade (Installed)
10.25” Android head unit upgrade
Brembo 6 Piston Breaks with 4000 series slotted BDA rotors (Front - DBA43090S, Rear - DBA43091S) (Installed)
Mirack Swinging Spare Wheel Carrier (On Order)
  • STEDI ST3301 PRO 4.6" LED Work Light
If/when we ever decide to get a caravan, I’ll also be expanding the TPMS to cover that as well as well as a 5t Hitch Ezy coupling so need to account for that in the initial build. UPDATE: We've just ordered a caravan, so the TPMS will be expanded to cover it's wheels, however I settled on the DO-35 mainly because of price and my parents' van has a DO-35, so I could tow that as well without needing another hitch.

I’m planning on filming everything and putting it up on YouTube & Instagram, but all the very detail technical information will be posted on here, and only here.

Follow along and enjoy!
 
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#4 · (Edited)
So I did some investigation today on exactly what space I have to work/play with in the rear, turns out... A LOT!
  • Luckily my car comes with a second battery for the start/stop function. On the R/H on the boot space behind the trim panel, there's a shelf there with a small battery (unknown capacity). If it's possible, my plan is to remove that battery and replace it with a 100ah Lithium (or what ever will fit in that space) that is charged by the alternator through the existing OEM wiring via a REDARC BCDC1250D battery charger. From the BCDC I plan to run a cable up to the Rhino Rack with an Anderson plug so I can plug in my solar blanket when the car is at camp and keep the battery topped up.
From the second battery, I plan to power the fridge and lights in the drawers via another Anderson plug, so if in the event I need to remove the drawers there is just a single connection.​
This is also my preferred location to install the ARB Linx system as this is the main fuse panel for most of the cars electronics, so it should be nice, easy short connections for the auto electrician. Keywords should and auto electrician hahaha, that's their problem...​
288502

  • On the L/H there is a HUGE pocket of basically nothing. Quite disappointing actually that LR didn't take advantage of the space to give us a bigger boot area, but anyway my gain. The ARB twin compressor and 4L tank will easily fit in this space. There are a few threads sticking out that I should be able to take advantage of to make a secure custom bracket because there's a fair amount of weight in the system (~12kg).
288503


  • I'm 50/50 at the moment whether to still keep a spare under the drawers. I can't think of an alternative use for the space however accessing it would be a PITA, but not impossible. One will always be external on the Rhino Rack, with the second either under the floor or on the Mirack Swinging Spare Wheel Carrier. I really like the carrier but all I can see me doing is opening up the tailgate forgetting to swing the carrier away and hit it, and the potential hassle of having to open it all the time to access the boot could annoy me.
288506

  • For some weird reason, my car never came out with internal lights in the tailgate. I've installed the PowerfulUK LED upgrade (available HERE) to the rest of the lights but can't do these because they're not there... or so I thought! Opened the trim panel up and low and behold the looms/connections are there. There's even the cut outs in the panel! I have absolutely no bloody idea why they've done this, again weird LR stuff. I'm trying to source a panel with the plastic cut outs as I want it to look factory. I could just cut holes but I'm not cutting corners. These lights will SUBSTANTIALLY improve the visibility in the boot space, to the point where I don't think I'll need to put lights on the drawers, but will still probably do it as they'll look cool and I've already bought them haha.
288507

288508

  • Jumped under the car as there were some items picked up in a recent service that I wanted to have a look at, so took the time to see what else is going on under there as I've never really had a good look. I noticed there is a HUGE unused space just in front one of the R/H fuel tanks. Again why the hell didn't LR use this space to put in a bigger fuel tank baffles me... I reckon there is easily at least another 30L of space there. Good opportunity for a company like Brown Davis to make an extended fuel tank. They make one for the L320, might contact them and see if there's any chance they would do one for the L494.
288509


As far as the car goes, I'm currently test fitting everything so I can lock in it's location. Once I'm happy with it I'm going to take everything off and video the installation/build process so I can start a you tube channel. So far I've got the curved lightbar, UHF aerial and bracket, ladder, ladder bracket, matrax, gas bottle and spare wheel holder installed.

Before anyone asks, once I installed the light bar it virtually eliminated all the wind noise, can hardly hear anything at 110kph.

288510
 

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#22 ·
So I did some investigation today on exactly what space I have to work/play with in the rear, turns out... A LOT!
  • Luckily my car comes with a second battery for the start/stop function. On the R/H on the boot space behind the trim panel, there's a shelf there with a small battery (unknown capacity). If it's possible, my plan is to remove that battery and replace it with a 100ah Lithium (or what ever will fit in that space) that is charged by the alternator through the existing OEM wiring via a REDARC BCDC1225D battery charger. From the BDCD I plan to run a cable up to the Rhino Rack with an Anderson plug so I can plug in my solar blanket when the car is at camp and keep the battery topped up.
From the second battery, I plan to power the fridge and lights in the drawers via another Anderson plug, so if in the event I need to remove the drawers there is just a single connection.​
This is also my preferred location to install the ARB Linx system as this is the main fuse panel for most of the cars electronics, so it should be nice, easy short connections for the auto electrician. Keywords should and auto electrician hahaha, it's their problem...​
View attachment 288502
  • On the L/H there is a HUGE pocket of basically nothing. Quite disappointing actually that LR didn't take advantage of the space to give us a bigger boot area, but anyway my gain. The ARB twin compressor and 4L tank will easily fit in this space. There are a few threads sticking out that I should be able to take advantage of to make a secure custom bracket because there's a fair amount of weight in the system (~12kg). I plan to just have a single recessed air outlet using a cup holder of all things (available HERE), and no switch, as it will be controlled by the Linx system.
View attachment 288503

This is the repurposed 'cup holder' that I plan to mount in the L/H trim panel with a standard nitto fitting, recessed so it does not encroach on the storage space.

View attachment 288504

  • I'm 50/50 at the moment whether to still keep a spare under the drawers. I can't think of an alternative use for the space however accessing it would be a PITA, but not impossible. One will always be external on the Rhino Rack, with the second either under the floor or on the Mirack Swinging Spare Wheel Carrier. I really like the carrier but all I can see me doing is opening up the tailgate forgetting to swing the carrier away and hit it, and the potential hassle of having to open it all the time to access the boot could annoy me.
View attachment 288506
  • For some weird reason, my car never came out with internal lights in the tailgate. I've installed the PowerfulUK LED upgrade (available HERE) to the rest of the lights but can't do these because they're not there... or so I thought! Opened the trim panel up and low and behold the looms/connections are there. There's even the cut outs in the panel! I have absolutely no bloody idea why they've done this, again weird LR stuff. I'm trying to source a panel with the plastic cut outs as I want it to look factory. I could just cut holes but I'm not cutting corners. These lights will SUBSTANTIALLY improve the visibility in the boot space, to the point where I don't think I'll need to put lights on the drawers, but will still probably do it as they'll look cool and I've already bought them haha.
View attachment 288507
View attachment 288508
  • Jumped under the car as there were some items picked up in a recent service that I wanted to have a look at, so took the time to see what else is going on under there as I've never really had a good look. I noticed there is a HUGE unused space just in front one of the R/H fuel tanks. Again why the hell didn't LR use this space to put in a bigger fuel tank baffles me... I reckon there is easily at least another 30L of space there. Good opportunity for a company like Brown Davis to make an extended fuel tank. They make one for the L320, might contact them and see if there's any chance they would do one for the L494.
View attachment 288509

As far as the car goes, I'm currently test fitting everything so I can lock in it's location. Once I'm happy with it I'm going to take everything off and video the installation/build process so I can start a you tube channel. So far I've got the curved lightbar, UHF aerial and bracket, ladder, ladder bracket, matrax, gas bottle and spare wheel holder installed.

Before anyone asks, once I installed the light bar it virtually eliminated all the wind noise, can hardly hear anything at 110kph.

View attachment 288510
Awesome build project and I like your style... For on and offroad handling... The best of both worlds as far as tire choice is the NITTO Trail Grappler "Mud-Terrains"... They handle dry pavement and wet pavement extremely effeciently and handle an icy road very well. For offroad performance I've only had to put my Jeep in 4Lo a hand full of times to get out of deep mud troughs as just the tires and the rear automatic Limited Slip Differential are more than enough 95% of the time to get out of a deep rut. When I get new tires for my daily driver L494 V8 Sport... I will outfit her with the Nitto Trail Grappler Mud Terrains. It will be my 3rd set of them (2) on the Jeep (1) set on the Rover. We just had a new fresh set of 5 installed on our 15 Jeep Rubicon.

As for the Rover's spare tire well... I bought an extra pair of matching 22" Stormer Wheels and matching full sized Pirelli "Scorpion's" for 2 spares. One to fit snugly in the boot well for a real spare and another to fit atop of the spare well in the cargo hold tethered down tight for Off-Roading. Nothing sucks more off-road like having to use a "Doughnut" for a spare to limp off a trail and it sucks even worse being 100 miles from home on the highway as the OEM Spare Doughnut is only rated for 45 miles at 50mph... So having (2) full sized spares is a really good idea for Off-roading if you can spare the room and a good idea for long road trips (space dependent as well of course).

It's pure piece of mind for me but to each their own. I also have a batter powered portable Heavy Duty 700 peak Amp "Stanley Compressor" and battery jumper that will pump a 275/40/22R tire from near flat to 40 PSI in under 2 minutes. It's self serving powered if you plug it into the Rover's outlet while running as well for peak charge/power. Lastly, I carry a 1/2 inch drive 2.5 Foot Length "Tekton "Breaker-Bar" and a 7/8" socket for changing tires, a big fresh can of TPMS safe Stop Leak, tire plug kit, and 2 quarts of Castrol Professional 0w-20 oil in a "Recovery Bag" for
just-in-case situations... YMMV...
 
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#5 ·
BANK5, sounds like a wonderful adventure that your son will never forget! Just curious, does your diesel have the 2 speed transfer case? I have a 2016 TD6 with all wheel drive but without the 2 speed transfer case and am hoping the low end torque will still get me through most situations.
 
#10 ·
Mine doesn't have it. The TDV6 SE models didn't come out with it, needed to get the SDV6 SE model and up to get the 2 speed transfer case as they had the Terrain Response 2 system. Not sure if it was salesman speak however when I questioned what was the real world difference would be his response was in 80% of situations you'll get away without having it, however I expect it having diff locks would make a difference in that 20%.

If I had my time over I think I'd go for the SDV6 SE instead, a lot more equipment for a very small price increase compared to the TDV6 SE, and a lot cheaper than the SDV8 HSE. The extra ~$40k for a 25kw power and 100nm torque increase just isn't worth it.
 
#6 ·
Awesome build and great to see this kind of use! RE the big empty space in the cargo area, that’s where your rear ac unit would be if you had the 3 or 4 zone climate system.
 
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#11 ·
That kind of makes sense then. Huge amount of space!

Everyone I speak to are telling me not to do it, too much hassle, waste of money etc but meh, what else is there to do? COVID will ensure that countries boarders are shut for a few years so domestic travel will be the only way to go, plus there's so much to see in Australia and Queensland for that matter that it won't go to waste.

From what I've researched there aren't many who have done what I've done, let alone documented it. I've toyed with starting a YouTube channel for a few years now and think this car is a good place to start. I'm in no was a 'seasoned' or professional camper/explorer but I (and my wife) have a massive yearning for and love being outside on bushwalks etc, and we want our son to feel the same. I'm a planner (Project Manager by trade) so figuring out solutions and how stuff all fits together from a built perspective is literally my calling haha, plus I enjoy it.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Banks, can you give me some tips on running the coax cable for the UHF aerial exactly as you have done? And the switch for the light bar..where did you locate that?

View attachment 288510
[/QUOTE]

Haven't crossed that bridge yet, but I plan to run it (as well as the lightbar cables) down the R/H A Pillar thought the secondary firewall, into the cab and eventually into the centre console or under the dash (which ever is less of a pain in the arse to access). The best thing about the XRS system is the unit is quite small as the 'brains' on the operation is the handset itself, which uses a standard RJ45 connection so it really opens up your mounting options as the unit doesn't need to be near the handset.

I've actually contacted the guys over at Powerful UK to see if they could make a video on how to remove the A, B, C and D pillars because I can't find any info online, especially for the A pillar. There is some stuff on Cardiagn for the B, C and D pillars but go figure nothing for the A pillar!

Plus my pillar's look like crap, all faded in the sun so when they're off I'll either paint them or wrap them.
 
#13 ·
I’ve put this in the tailgate as an excellent light source.
About $30 from Jaycar. Bent over my knee and tapped a live wire behind.

View attachment 288554
I ended up just buying the panel with the light cut outs already installed (P/N: LR096952) brand new off eBay for AUD$150 delivered from the UK.



I purchased the lighting kit from Powerful UK so already have the lights, which are REALLY bright. Another semi passion of mine is LED's and I know the difference is what's good and what's not. The Powerful UK ones are really good quality and the fitment is OEM. Once I get my channel up and running I'm planning on doing a comparison video because I feel for ~$130AUD (£70) you get a lot for your money and a significant increase in the quality and brightness of the lights. Don't know why OEM skimp on lights, I've never known anyone to complain there too much light or they're too bright...
 
#60 ·
And for that space on the left, a black marine hatch gave me access to what is a cavernous space for those not fitting another battery/compressor etc.

View attachment 288555
Hi - this looks really neat and good use of dead space. I assume you need to remove the side panel to do this? what is best way to remove the side panel so as get it back in please? Seano
 
#20 ·
Nice Job BlackPerth...

I need a light set-up just like that! The stock LED's leave a bit to be desired both on the tailgate and on the cargo hold wall... Where can I get/order this light bar from and what wire or fuse # position do I tap it into? Thanks in advance!

-Hams
 
#19 · (Edited)
I've been doing some quite in depth digging on the specs and features in the workshop manuals of the the TDV6 vs the SDV6 and SDV8 variants, and there are some interesting discoveries with the GVM/GCM as well as the fuel systems. If talking about GVM/GCM doesn't make sense or bores you, please don't read this hahaha.

The TDV6 and SDV6 both have a Tare/Curb Weight of ~2,115kg with a GVM of 3,000kg, a difference or load capacity of 885kg. The SDV8 has a Tare Weight of ~2,398kg and a GVM of 3,200kg, so a difference/load capacity of 802kg. 83kg less that the TD/SDV6 models (quite significant!). Now this is where is starts to get interesting, the TD/SDV6 models get a higher GVM of 3,150kg if you have the 5+2 seats installed, obviously for the seats themselves and two passengers. So now the difference/load capacity is 1,035kg, however the SDV8 only gets a 50kg GVM increase if you have 5+2 seats making the difference a total of 852kg, a whole 183kg less than the TD/SDV6 models!

FYI the extra GVM for the 5+2 seats is all for the rear axle (which makes sense). Talking about axles, there was another spec that didn't make sense to me, the maximum front axle load is 1,500kg, and the rear is 1,775kg (1,900kg if you have 5+2 seats). This totals 3,275kg, which is obviously 275kg over GVM...? 125kg over if you have 5+2 seats. How does that work out?

This all resulted in the question, what chassis strengthening is there to enable the TD/SDV6 models to gain an extra 150kg GVM, and is this something that could be done post factory?

When you sit down and work out the numbers, there actually isn't much room in these cars to carry a lot of weight especially if you're towing and have a roof rack.

2,115kg Emptry
80L Fuel = ~66.5kg
4 Passengers = ~300kg
Towball weight = from 150 to 350kg
Roof Rack = 100kg

We're up to 816.5kg (with 350kg towbar weight, 616.5kg at 150kg.) This leaves only 68.5 to 268.5kg for everything else you need to carry. Basically you can't have 4 passengers and tow a heavy caravan. As part of my build process I need to ensure the car stays within GVM leaving approximately 200kg for the towball weight. It's just my wife, me and my son but I'll use 240kg as passenger weight bringing my total (including rack, fuel etc) to 606.5kg, leaving me ~278kg of usable load capacity. Reflecting on the number, I should be ok but I'm not looking forward to how it handles.

FYI, if I had the SDV8, I'd only have 195.5kg. No wonder most people get a 200 series Landcruiser with a GVM upgrade. Personally (longer term...), I'm looking at the RAM 1500 like THIS BEAST. However when you look into the RAM 1500, its load capacity is only 830kg! The difference is in its GCM and Towing capacity is larger (7,450kg & 4,500kg). A RAM 1500 with a 4,500kg GVM upgrade would be the go! hahaha

Anyway, this is where the GVM crossed over into the Fuel system. So in an earlier post I complained about an unused space under the car, turns out this was space for a bigger fuel tank after all. All the V8 models (Petrol & Diesel) as well as the V6 supercharged actually came out with a 105L fuel tank, where as the TDV6, SDV6 & SDV6 Hybrid have a 80L fuel tank.

Digging through the workshop manual trying to find more info about the 105L tank, I came across something else. The SDV8 Diesel actually comes with twin fuel filters, where as the TDV6 and SDV6 Diesel's only have one.

The downside is because the electrical systems are SOOO complicated that it’s not a straight forward process/almost impossible to do modifications like putting in a 105L tank and the secondary fuel filter, even if it’s standard.

The more and more I dig into this, the more and more I'm convinced the SDV6 SE is the sweet spot in the L494 line up balancing standard features/equipment, capabilities and cost...
 
#21 ·
Bank5 said "Talking about axles, there was another spec that didn't make sense to me, the maximum front axle load is 1,500kg, and the rear is 1,775kg (1,900kg if you have 5+2 seats). This totals 3,275kg, which is obviously 275kg over GVM...? 125kg over if you have 5+2 seats. How does that work out?"

My guess is you can bias the total weight front or rear up to the individual axle limitations but can't maximize both axle loads if it will exceed total GVM. In other words if you max one axle load you have to reduce what you put on the other to stay within total allowable weight.

Regarding fuel tank capacity, my 2016 TD6 has a 23.5 gallon tank whereas non-diesel are 27.7. Probably adequate given the better mileage of the diesel but given a choice I would have preferred 27.7
 
#30 ·
Guys here are the 275/55/20 Ridge Grapplers - so far I’m impresssec
That looks tough AF! Didn't think you'd get 275/55's on those rims. Good to know!
 
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#26 · (Edited)
Quite a few updates on this post. Massive read, grab a beer.
  • Redarc Towpro Elite V3 brake controller is now installed.
  • Stedi 23.3" ST3003 Pro Light Bar is mounted.
  • Brembo 6 Piston Brakes and BDA Rotors have arrived.
  • 20" Wheels.... more on that
I'll start with the tow controller. To test it out we hired a 19ft New Age "Road Owl" caravan from Camplify for a little break at Kurrimine Beach, about an hour South of Cairns. I've never towed a caravan before (just jet ski's, car trailers and a a 10x6 box trailer) so it was a good experience to have something decent on the back to see how the car handled. Overall you know it's there, but once you're going she's pretty well mannered. This is where air suspension comes into it's own I think. Obviously some extra power would be nice (SDV6 or SDV8) but you're not exactly breaking land speed records... Fuel usage was about 15-17 L/100k at 90-95km/h on fairly flat terrain. I thought that wasn't bad for something that weighed about 4.5 tonne combined.

One thing is I'm glad I'm upgrading the brakes. Our long term plan is to get a 22.6' van and I think on the standard brakes the car would struggle to pull up in emergency situations with near 3 tonne on the back.

The controller itself was super simple to use, monitor and adjust on the fly. Can see why it's the go to premium choice for towing. It did take a while to calibrate (note, the trailer brakes do not work while it's doing this so your car takes on the full weight of the van), around 5 minutes of driving but once it's done it once, it is instantaneous when initially driving there after. I initially had the trailer set at 3, but bumped it up to five as I had the scared button on being the first time I've driven with a van. Next time I'll probably drop it back down to 3. The difference between 3 and 5 is noticeable. Can't imagine what 10 is like, you would probably lock the brakes up.

289046


Now for the install on the controller. Logically this was the only location for me that made sense. I did not want it on the steering column as you need to have a visual on it while towing to see what the brakes are doing, so installing it on the column like some have isn't practical and a little unsafe in my opinion. The other location is on the small leather trim between the column and drivers air vent. I just could not bring myself to punch a hole through the leather...

To me, this is the most OEM looking location, and is functional.

289040


To get here though, means cutting a whole in the dash support behind the trim panel which some might not want to do, however to install this controller you're putting a hole somewhere.

Access is a little difficult, as you need to remove quite a few panels to get there.
  1. Door Rubber
  2. Side Dash Trim
  3. Airvent Surround
  4. Leather Trim piece
  5. Upper Plastic Grill piece next to the A pillar
After removing all them you can then get the mesh looking grill out where the brake controller will go. The glue looking stuff was there from factory, no idea what is was, looked horrible and didn't bother removing it. Most screws are removed using a T20 bit, I think there was one T25 screw in the side panel.

TIP - The metal clips will need to be removed from the trim panel they're attached to (if they come out with them). You need to reset and reinstall all the clips to make sure the panel is secured properly. If you do not, sometimes the clips are pushed too far up the tabs and won't lock in when you go to reinstall the panel/trim. You need to push the trim into the clips, one shot at it otherwise you'll need to remove the panel again and reset everything.

289041


So as you can see here, the brake controller will sit in between the two clips. I initially drilled a pilot hole then used a 13mm drill bit to make a sizable opening. Be careful when drilling through, the drill bit may grab and pull the drill in. Spin the drill at a high speed so the plastic chips rather than shaves.

I then used a Dremel to square out the corners to make a gap big enough for the remote head to go though. As the head will be on a different angle to the trim panel, you need to elongate the opening down a little (more like a rectangle) into the thicker section below the clips. Bit of trial and error here putting the trim up to see where the remote head will be and Dremeling where required so if will fit.

Plastic shavings and chips will end up everywhere, I just vacuumed them up afterwards. You could cover the dash if you choose but they end up inside the dash cavities anyway so didn't bother.

289042


Once you've made the cut on in the dash panel you then need to drill a 10mm hole in the dimpled trim to mount the remote head. When you look at the trim, you'll be able to work out there is one dimple that is right in the centre between the clips, use this as the guide and pilot hole. You'll need to trim away a little bit of plastic support on the back of the panel as well.

289043


289044


Once you've done all that, feed the wire up and over the air vent duct, then down the side to under the dash. I was fortunate enough that I ordered a factory towbar, so my car is prewired for a brake controller, as well as having a 12 pin trailer connection so for me this is actually quite a simple process. For others without a towbar, the whole loom needs to be installed which I would say your auto electrician would hate you afterwards.

I did not physically wire up the controller, left that to my auto electrician, but was about a 1.5/2 hour job (installing/testing).

Ultimately consideration was needed for the placement of the dial controller, as that location is where I also intend to mount the ARB Linx screen. I'll need to modify the magnetic mount slightly to make it fit between the air vent and the upper dash, but again this is the only logical/practical location it can go. Sure it blocks one of the tweeters but I've got like 18 other speakers so I'll survive haha (I've got the 825W Meridian system).

289045


Next on the list was the Stedi ST3303 Pro 23.3" LED Light Bar. I used the AutoElecOz L494 LED Mounting Bracket to mount it to the front of the grill.

Initial impressions were this bracket is well made and solid. The mounting locations used to secure the bracket make sense (there isn't really anything else around they could have used), however the factory screws used in those locations aren't exactly the strongest in my opinion. I can see potential problems in the future going on corrugated roads may put to much pressure/weight on those screws and make the bracket sag or come loose over time. I'll reserve judgement for now for long term testing.

Anyway the light looks the goods. Is actually quite lightweight (pun intended) which is a good thing. Haven't weird it up yet as it's integrated with the ARB Linx system so more planning is required. For now I just drive around with it looking like a poser who pretends to know what he's doing haha.

The hardest thing about the install was getting the bloody front grill off... you sound like you're breaking it as it releases but seems to be ok. 🤷‍♂️

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Look, if you read the laws regarding light bar installations (QLD specific, different states have different laws...), TECHNICALLY this doesn't meet the standard... "The placement of driving lamps and associated brackets must not increase the risk of injury to pedestrians. Driving lamps must not be fitted to the top of a bull bar above the forward bonnet line, or protruding forward of the bumper bar or bull bar in a way which would adversely change the profile of the impact zone".

I could literally not give two s$!%ts about it... The risk of me hitting someone is sooooooo much less then me not being able to see at night. If I got pulled up and a officer wanted to fine me for that, I think I'd have bigger problems than how a light is mounted. You look around at other vehicles and most of them have their lights mounted not meeting the standard either so I assume it's not enforced much.

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There is a note with anyone wanting to use this same combination (The AutoElecOz bracket and Stedi ST3003 Pro). The bracket's mounting holes DO NOT align with Stedi's brackets, meaning you'll need to drill out two of the holes so you can get all four bolts in there. Some might think not a big deal, but from me when paying $350 for a bracket, I want perfection. I should not have to drill anything.

I did contact AutoElecOz about it and their response was, well disappointing and a little triggering.

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#27 ·
This is awesome - thanks for posting such great detail on your project! I am just starting to modify my 2014 RSS SC.

Quick question - is your rack install level? I am trying to figure out best rack to install with rooftop tent and given the drop in the roofline, want to make sure I can level the rack off.

Thanks!
 
#29 ·
This is awesome - thanks for posting such great detail on your project! I am just starting to modify my 2014 RSS SC.

Quick question - is your rack install level? I am trying to figure out best rack to install with rooftop tent and given the drop in the roofline, want to make sure I can level the rack off.

Thanks!
Thanks texasjosh. That's my whole reasoning behind it, provide as much detail and information as possible so people that want to do the same aren't flying blind.

I'm planning on starting a YouTube channel up do show all these mods being down (retrospectively).

I'm yet to measure the angle of the rack, however I have put in the 5mm wedge and 10mm spacer on the rear legs to push it up. I've got an inclinometer at work where I can measure the exact angle but it's pretty close to parallel.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Next, brakes. I track race a Holden VZ SSZ V8 Ute and I've got big AP Racing brakes on that, or so I thought until I saw the size of these calipers! They have got to be the biggest calipers I've ever seen. Comically big. I have a feeling they are going to completely change the handling of the car, especially coupled with the BDA 4000 series T3 slotted rotors.

I'm just waiting on the rear calipers that are coming out of the UK, then I can install them all.

Just to annoy everyone I paid $1,000 for the front calipers (brand new OEM), $700 for the rear calipers (second hand OEM but in extremely good condition), $550 for both front rotors and $370 for both rear rotors. Totalling $2,620 for brand new Brembo brakes. To say I'm wrapped in an understatement. Considering Land Rover charge $2,500 to change just rotors and pads, I feel like I've had a massive win.

289051


Attached to these brakes will be the biggest pain in the ar$# so far with the build, wheels. So I went out and bought some 20" wheels that came with brand new 265/50/20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Stupid me, even though I checked the offset thought that surely 6mm would be fine, how wrong I was...

The initial wheels I purchased where from an L320 Range Rover Sport Vogue that has a +53mm offset. Turns out L320 wheels do not fit L494's. Good ol Land Rover decided to change the offset value on the L494 platform to one that is just annoyingly complicated, but makes sense...

20" wheels for an L494 need to be +47mm offset.
22" wheels for an L494 need to be +42.5mm OR +49mm offset (depends which wheels you get...)

Why you ask?... So the centre of the tyre aligns perfectly with the angle of the suspension strut. I get it, ensuring the cars telemetry is predicable and standardised. I understand that, but it makes it a real PITA when you're looking at wheels. ESPECIALLY when Land Rover in all their wisdom make the same wheels visually with different offsets!

If you do get the offset wrong, this happens...

289052


The wheel will touch the suspension arm...

So if you want to use off road tyres (All or Mud Terrain Tyres), you're ONLY option is to source some 20" "Style 520" wheels. They are the only wheels that will fit the L494, which enable (at the time of writing this) about 8 different off road tyres to be installed. Those with Brembo brakes, this specific rim is the smallest you can go.

I now own 17 bloody wheels for this car... SEVENTEEN! 5 x 19" (Original Wheels). 4 x 22" Style 502's, 4 x 20" L322 Vogues and 4 " 20" Style 502's.

SEVENTEEN...

289053


So the plan is to now do the following:
  1. Take the tyres off the silver wheels
  2. Fix gutter rash on one one of the wheels and get them all painted gloss black
  3. Take tyres and TPMS sensors off the L320 wheels
  4. Install tyres and TPMS sensors on the now gloss black wheels
  5. Sell L320 matt black wheels
  6. Sell 19" wheels
  7. Have multiple beers, pretend it didn't happen and never speak of it again
 
#48 ·
Next, brakes. I track race a Holden VZ SSZ V8 Ute and I've got big AP Racing brakes on that, or so I thought until I saw the size of these calipers! They have got to be the biggest calipers I've ever seen. Comically big. I have a feeling they are going to completely change the handling of the car, especially coupled with the BDA 4000 series T3 slotted rotors.

I'm just waiting on the rear calipers that are coming out of the UK, then I can install them all.

Just to annoy everyone I paid $1,000 for the front calipers (brand new OEM), $700 for the rear calipers (second hand OEM but in extremely good condition), $550 for both front rotors and $370 for both rear rotors. Totalling $2,620 for brand new Brembo brakes. To say I'm wrapped in an understatement. Considering Land Rover charge $2,500 to change just rotors and pads, I feel like I've had a massive win.

View attachment 289051

Attached to these brakes will be the biggest pain in the ar$# so far with the build, wheels. So I went out and bought some 20" wheels that came with brand new 265/50/20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Stupid me, even though I checked the offset thought that surely 6mm would be fine, how wrong I was...

The initial wheels I purchased where from an L320 Range Rover Sport Vogue that has a +53mm offset. Turns out L320 wheels do not fit L494's. Good ol Land Rover decided to change the offset value on the L494 platform to one that is just annoyingly complicated, but makes sense...

20" wheels for an L494 need to be +47mm offset.
22" wheels for an L494 need to be +42.5mm OR +49mm offset (depends which wheels you get...)

Why you ask?... So the centre of the tyre aligns perfectly with the angle of the suspension strut. I get it, ensuring the cars telemetry is predicable and standardised. I understand that, but it makes it a real PITA when you're looking at wheels. ESPECIALLY when Land Rover in all their wisdom make the same wheels visually with different offsets!

If you do get the offset wrong, this happens...

View attachment 289052

The wheel will touch the suspension arm...

So if you want to use off road tyres (All or Mud Terrain Tyres), you're ONLY option is to source some 20" "Style 520" wheels. They are the only wheels that will fit the L494, which enable (at the time of writing this) about 8 different off road tyres to be installed. Those with Brembo brakes, this specific rim is the smallest you can go.

I now own 17 bloody wheels for this car... SEVENTEEN! 5 x 19" (Original Wheels). 4 x 22" Style 502's, 4 x 20" L322 Vogues and 4 " 20" Style 502's.

SEVENTEEN...

View attachment 289053


So the plan is to now do the following:
  1. Take the tyres off the silver wheels
  2. Fix gutter rash on one one of the wheels and get them all painted gloss black
  3. Take tyres and TPMS sensors off the L320 wheels
  4. Install tyres and TPMS sensors on the now gloss black wheels
  5. Sell L320 matt black wheels
  6. Sell 19" wheels
  7. Have multiple beers, pretend it didn't happen and never speak of it again
 
#32 ·
Hey Banks, hats off to you for the build and sharing everything. I took delivery of my RRS a couple of months ago and have spent a tonne of time researching the mods I want to do - only to stumble across your build at the end realising that you've done all the work already! Good to see that I wasn't too far off with most of my ideas. The main difference being I'll fit ARB Solis lights to the front bracket instead of the light bar. I'm in Sydney - and in my suburb RRS's are one of the most common vehicle, but not one of them ever has a spec of dirt on them. Every accessory shop I've visited has been "you want to do what with your RR?". Watching on with great interest as I'm about to start my build - looking forward to the YouTube vids too - just your comments above on the Tyres and Rims has probably saved me a world of pain! Might see you in our travels one day! Thanks !
 
#34 ·
Hey BT2001, thanks for the positive feedback. Good to know all these hours typing, filming and taking photos is helping someone haha.

I was looking at ARB light bars but just couldn't justify the price. Plus I really wanted a curved bar on the roof.

My car is five years old with 105,000km's and hasn't missed a beat. It's been on first roads but I've always been hesitant because I felt like it just wasn't quite there equipment wise. Doing this to will give me the confidence taking it outside of my comfort zone with my family in it.

Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll see if I can help. There is quite a bit of info I haven't posted on here yet because I'm not at that stage of the build, but I've most likely done the research already.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Thanks Blackperth, it's getting there!

The ARB Linx system is basically a digital control box/switchboard controlled via a screen instead of physically switched. At a stretch sort of like a smaller version of the Redarc TVMS.

You can find out more info here: https://linx.arb.com.au/

There were several reasons why I chose this:
  1. There is virtually no where to mount switches in the cabin. Making it almost impossible to control accessories, meaning accessories were never considered by Land Rover as ever being installed in the vehicle.
  2. The Linx system integrates with the compressor via the "pressure control kit" that enables you to set the pressure (either lower or higher than the current pressure), and it will automatically inflate/deflate the tyre to the pressure without needed to babysit it, much like the systems they have at service stations. This alone was a winner for me.
  3. The ability to have and monitor tyre pressures, on multiple sets of tyres, as well as multiple trailers on different terrain. Road vs off road pressures.
  4. Control all my lights and the touch of a screen, easily accessible while I'm driving.
  5. Monitor my additional battery.
There are other things it can do, especially if you have an ARB fridge, diff lockers or 3rd party airbags however I don't so I can't take advantage of those features.

Is it as reliable as physical switches? no idea and probably not, however without this system I simply would not be able to do what I'm doing. To me it is key to the whole build.
 
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#36 ·
What's your current thinking of running power/coax? I saw PowerfulUK's clip on removing the A pillar - it's glued in! Where are you mounting your Linx? I'm thinking everything's going to have to go through the D pillar and connected through the boot? Not a bad thing if you've got the compressor and spare battery there (but the front driving lights will have to have long cable runs if you want smart control through Linx - I'm putting in the adjustable ARB spots instead of the lightbar). I'm also wondering about a neat way to wire up UHF and lights so that I can take the Rhino Platform off and tuck the cables in somewhere - possibly at the top of the boot? Certainly feels as though RR didn't want anyone doing mods to these.
 
#37 ·
I know I watched it this morning! I feel so bad because I asked him to make it, I'm the one he's cursing hahah. I literally gasped when it just started breaking to bits... At least we all know now, who knew they were glued on... Typical Land Rover.

I've got no idea what I'm going to do now, will have to have a good look around the car and sus out another way.

Still planning on mounting the Linx display to the same trim as the brake controller, with the USB cable run to the back left where the control box will be mounted.

Something I did think about this morning, mounting all the relays for the lights in the engine bay and just hooking it up to the terminals that are in there? Then all i'd need to do is run the control wire back to the Linx instead of the full power cables. Those terminals are connected to the main battery and have some serious cables to it so I can't see why I couldn't?

The other thing I was thinking of doing was mounting a junction box to the underside of the platform (like this HELLA 8KV 004 259-031 Cable Junction Box), and have Deutsch connectors for the lights so if I ever need to take the rack off, the cables can just sit on the roof . Tricky one is the radio as you can't cut the cable...

289168
 
#39 ·
I did think about that, but in all seriousness I don’t see myself ever taking the rack off even though I can and I’m planning and setting it up that I can easily.

Height becomes the next issue, can’t get into car parks unless you have the adjustable antenna mount to lower it. Then there’s that one day you forget to put it down haha
 
#40 ·
Awesome write-up, and how to Banks... Seriously, pretty cool of you and your journal, progress, how-to's, and documentation on all of this!

I have the Brembo 6 Piston front Calipers and 4 Piston Rear Calipers too and the original owner installed a 22" version of the 9 spoke "Stormer" wheels. Inner wheel diameter and offset definitely fit fine both front and back with my 22" rims with the Brembo's. I love the wheels but I don't know the offset of them. But you are going to love the way those Brembo's stop brother! They will sling you thru the windshield if you aren't buckled in and hit those brakes hard...

That said, I have used some high quality wheel spacers in the past on a highly modded Jeep in the past to get the width of Mud Terrain Tires (13inches wide) I needed and they were awesome. Had that Jeep and same wheel Spacers that adjusted the offset 1.25 inches for over 10 years. Does anyone make an offset spacer that will allow you to use your 20 or 21" rims... That is knowing as long as their inner diameter of the rim will clear the Brembo Calipers and rotors that is. I think most 20" wheels will and 21" wheels certainly will.
 
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#41 · (Edited)
Awesome write-up, and how to Banks... Seriously, pretty cool of you and your journal, progress, how-to's, and documentation on all of this!

I have the Brembo 6 Piston front Calipers and 4 Piston Rear Calipers too and the original owner installed a 22" version of the 9 spoke "Stormer" wheels. Inner wheel diameter and offset definitely fit fine both front and back with my 22" rims with the Brembo's. I love the wheels but I don't know the offset of them. But you are going to love the way those Brembo's stop brother! They will sling you thru the windshield if you aren't buckled in and hit those brakes hard...

That said, I have used some high quality wheel spacers in the past on a highly modded Jeep in the past to get the width of Mud Terrain Tires (13inches wide) I needed and they were awesome. Had that Jeep and same wheel Spacers that adjusted the offset 1.25 inches for over 10 years. Does anyone make an offset spacer that will allow you to use your 20 or 21" rims... That is knowing as long as their inner diameter of the rim will clear the Brembo Calipers and rotors that is. I think most 20" wheels will and 21" wheels certainly will.
Thanks Ham Hands (it's funny reading/typing everyone's usernames, unless your name is actually Ham Hands... in which case, hahahahahha).

I did have a decent look for spacers and found these L494 Wheel Spacers which I expect would be perfectly fine and look like great quality, however I've had my time with previous vehicles with stuff like that and I'm just not interested in going down the same road for this particular car. Not to mention they're illegal in my country and void insurance which is probably the biggest factor.

The only downside is the L320 wheels are9.5" wide and the Style 520's are only 8.5". Both still fit a 265 tyre just fine and from @BlackPerth's post above it looks like you can squeeze some 275's on there as well which is a bonus.

Main reason I'm doing it is because no one has and I'm bored AF, with how the world is at the moment resulting in my work drying up (I'm in Aviation) so being at home has made the mind and imagination go wild.

Don't get me wrong, the long game is to make money out of it. Some of the things I want to do just don't exist, so if I can design and fabricate them to sell as well as make video of everything on YouTube/Instagram it might be a way to make it all cost neutral. Either way I'm still be doing it :)

I've just designed my logo and video intro, feel free to follow along on the socials!

289282


Took the car over the Magnetic Island off the coast of Townsville (where I live) for a mini shake down. Went down a really crap/washed out "bitumen" road on the 22" wheels just to see how it would go. Handled great and installed some personal confidence as well as with the vehicle.

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289287
 
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#43 · (Edited)
Baby steps, but progressing forward!

Added a Rhino Rack Shovel Holder (43218) on the rear and planning on making a custom shovel with a carbon fibre pole to try and save some weight. Why? Because I can hahaha, and the weight up there is nearing maximum.

Discovered a hack using the Rhino Rack Maxtrax Support Brackets (43197). They are the PERFECT length, angle, everything to mount an additional sliding bracket on the top of the light to provide more mounting points. I wasn't satisfied that just the two bolts on the outside would be enough support when travelling on rough corrugated roads, not a worry any more. Just need to pick up some M8x25mm Stainless Bolts so they will sit flush with the lock nuts. Might also trim the unnecessary mount holes on the bracket as well, especially on the L/H as it sits under the spare wheel. Absolutely no wind noise increase.

289572


Speaking of wheels, I finally now have a set of off road wheels and tyres! Planning on doing the brakes soon so will swap the wheels over when that happens. Finally sourced a set of rear calipers but they need some TLC as some break fluid leaked out during shipping and destroyed the red paint. Will need to take them apart, clean, paint and reassemble them before anything to do with the brakes can happen. Which is a pain because the rear pad wear indicator just came up on the dash so I haven't got much time.

289573


The spare wheel holder is PERFECTLY placed on this rack, about 25mm clearance between the tyre and Maxtrax. I'm absolutely wrapped with how this platform is turning out, so much research is finally paying off.

The last major item is the awning, stay tuned for that one ;) Hopefully have something before Christmas, it's an unreleased product currently in R&D phase.

Electrical wise I've found an auto electrician who I'm comfortable with and actually wants to take the job on so in preparation for that I've ordered a iTECHWORLD iTECH120X 120ah lithium battery and Redarc BCDC1250D charger. The rabbit hole that is deciding on a lithium battery is just stupid and I got over it. Is it the best? who knows, I don't care anymore, but if it does what I need and lasts a long time then I'm fine with it. Half the price of a DCS or Revolution. Hopefully be able to use these bloody lights soon! The auto electrician is going to fabricate the custom bracket to hold the battery, BCDC, Linx and compressor. We reckon it will all JUST fit!

The last thing on the list for the rack electrics is a custom quick disconnect junction box with Deutsch connectors. Will paint it black and mounted on the underside of the platform to enable to me quickly disconnect all the lights if I ever need to take the rack off. Don't envision I ever will, however the ability to do so will be there.

289575



This plug will also be next to it so I can connect my solar blanket to the BCDC charger.

289578


I've decided I want some side steps, OEM ones (or knock offs) are fine but interested to find more detail on how much they affect the ramp breakover angle.

Also found this bad boy, however quickly learnt that you need to by the whole 6" lift kit to be able to install a winch... USD$15,000 for the kit, not installed. One can dream that maybe one day I'll have a winch on the old girl!

289579


Have fully started my YouTube channel, Facebook and Instagram pages. Have mainly been posting progress photos (basically everything that one here) and currently filming a few things but hopefully by the end of October I should start having some videos rolling out. Ordered some shirts, stickers, coasters, stubby coolers. Going all out! Ultimate plan is to put some stickers on the car, I really like how this looks... Love the contour/topographical map which has formed the basis of by secondary logos/banners.

289574


Another thing I'm contemplating is opening up an online store where I sell the rack (with selectable options) and any other unique items fully assembled. Sure you could do it yourself but some people might not be interested in putting it together and would rather just has a turn key product, I have done enough research to know what works and what fits. The biggest item I feel will be the battery tray/bracket.
 
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#44 ·
Bloody fantastic build! I'm a long way behind, but getting there. Have the rack on and over the holidays had 4 bikes, 3 man kayak and 10 person tent on there. Wind noise was terrible so I've fashioned a wind fairing out of 2mm flexible polycarbonate that I've cut to fit the contour of the roofline - has cut noise by about 80%. Found a Rhino wholesaler if you're looking at setting up a store, can put you in touch with them. Paid $800 for the 52101 platform, I'm sure he'd do cheaper for volume.

How did you find the 22's, did you have to air down at any point? I'm curious as I've got 21's and I'm assuming I should drop to 20's with AT's.
 
#45 ·
Bloody fantastic build! I'm a long way behind, but getting there. Have the rack on and over the holidays had 4 bikes, 3 man kayak and 10 person tent on there. Wind noise was terrible so I've fashioned a wind fairing out of 2mm flexible polycarbonate that I've cut to fit the contour of the roofline - has cut noise by about 80%. Found a Rhino wholesaler if you're looking at setting up a store, can put you in touch with them. Paid $800 for the 52101 platform, I'm sure he'd do cheaper for volume.

How did you find the 22's, did you have to air down at any point? I'm curious as I've got 21's and I'm assuming I should drop to 20's with AT's.
You got a 52101 for $800?? Please do let me know if I can get at this price too!

I've rung around for the RTS551 and could only get it for $260, will get that ordered.

I'm loving this thread! And to be honest I had dreams to do the same as you are right now! You dont see many RRS around with off road gear and everyone is too afraid to mod them, I still am, parts are expensive, build is complex and hard to make anything fit. But that's what makes it interesting! Seeing the peoples faces and reactions when a RRS shows up in the bush haha.

I am all for it! And I too will be videoing and documenting the stuff I do the our RRS. We can link up one day and do a collab :)
 
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