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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I don't know if this has been done before. Have only seen threads regarding radiators with missing or broken baffle. In another thread I wrote a little passage about my radiator which seemed fine because I did the "marble" test. Only I did it with a M16 nut.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...-hevac-blows-cold-air-when-turning-sharp.html

I thought it was fine but I was suspicious because it only gets hot on one side and very hot on the upper tank where the connections are.
Last night I took the radiator out and tested it thorougly by pouring water in the radiator on one side while having the radiator tilted a little so the water could not run through the core.
Water was seen on the other side almost immediately.
Ok, baffle does not work I realize.

Sooooooo.......I opened it up. And fixed it. Now it works like a charm. Get's hot uniformly and does what it should. Radiate heat!

IMG_2993.JPG IMG_2996.JPG IMG_2997.JPG IMG_2998.JPG IMG_2999.JPG IMG_3001.JPG IMG_3003.JPG IMG_3004.JPG IMG_3005.JPG IMG_3008.JPG
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Great.:thumb::thumb:

I my self wanted to look into this as I doubt the center baffle.

I have two questions;
1. Did you use any special tool to undo the top tank from the radiator?
2. There is a seal between the top tank & the radiator (rectangular, similar to tappet cover gasket).
from where did you source it?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Use a wood chisel or a decent bladed screw driver and flick the metal tabs open, then the top comes off easily
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great.:thumb::thumb:

I my self wanted to look into this as I doubt the center baffle.

I have two questions;
1. Did you use any special tool to undo the top tank from the radiator?
2. There is a seal between the top tank & the radiator (rectangular, similar to tappet cover gasket).
from where did you source it?
If you doubt the baffle, don't rely on the so called marble test. I was fooled by that one. It just tells you wether there is a baffle in there, not if it's leaking. Fluids is the way to test it in my opinion.

1. I used four tools. Two flat blade screwdrivers. One larger and one small to pry the tabs open. The small one I used only when some tabs were too close to the tank I could not start with the larger screw driver. A plastic mallet to hit the tabs back in position and lastly a Knipex Cobra plier to squeeze down the tabs to seal the tank properly.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8701250-10-Inch-Cobra-Pliers/dp/B000X4J2H0

2. I reused my seal, it was in ok condition.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the gasket is not re-usable can we use RTV sealant or similar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You know I'd have to say I highly doubt it would work in the long run.
I believe the seal, both the whole flange and the middle part that seals the baffle relies on the seal being compressed between the top tank and radiator core.
By making a seal with RTV I find it difficult to replicate that kind of flexibility.

Last time I read the instructions on a product like that it says to apply the silicone to a flange. Let it sit and cure for 15-20min in the air and then put the flanges together and tighten the screws or whatever until the flange lightly touches the silicone and there let it sit for about an hour. Afterwards tighten the screws correctly. And this is to let the RTV have time to cure and form a seal that is somewhat flexible and not just squeezed out when tightening the flanges together.

Ok, that's doable on the flange itself on the radiator, but the baffle?
As you can see on my pictures the seal there is rather thick and wide.
 

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Even if your seal isn’t in prestige condition, try turning it over, then give it some tiger seal or similar ( don’t know the makes in USA), there’s no way you can build a seal from rtv or any other sealant.
 
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