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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hey guys! Justin here from the Seattle area, been lurking for a bit while searching for the right P38 for me, just pulled the trigger today so I thought I'd make the first post!

I've found myself back in a P38 after having one back in 2004-2007 that drove me absolutely nuts with gremlins, yet I never forgot how much I loved driving it. Since then I went on a German car tour going to an E46 M3, MB ML350 (wife's), then Audi A6, RS5, and now Q7 (wife's) and V8TT S6 and have become a full blown Audi enthusiast...all the while having a huge hole inside that could only be filled by another P38. I'm excited to regain my enthusiasm for LR by finally getting another RR!

The truck is a 98 50th Anniversary Woodcote 4.0. I was holding out for a 4.6 but couldn't let this one pass up, it was nearly immaculate inside (save the headliner droop of course) and the body looked great outside of a crack on the passengers side corner of the front bumper. The seller actually had to point it out to me because I didn't notice it while walking around the truck. The color may not be for everyone, but I just love how unique and dynamic it is depending on the weather. Woodcote FTW!

Anyhow, I'm really looking forward to diving head first into this truck and the forum. Thanks in advance for all of the advice and knowledge I'll get from this group. A couple of initial questions:

- Looking to get the headlight guards for the OE brush guard but haven't had a lot of luck online...any tips on how to find them? All the ones I see are the ones that fit directly to the light, but not the brush guard ones.

- The truck drove well, idles nicely, and temp needle was dead vertical, but upon sliding under it I noticed the standard evidence of oil leakage - I've seen way worse on P38s so it didn't scare me away. However I also noticed some coolant drips gathered on the underside of the front diff. Could have come from anywhere and just gathered on that low point of course, but any thoughts on what to start with? Major red flag or relatively common thing that just needs some TLC? I'm ready to get dirty, thinking I should start with replacing all the coolant hoses...any guidance here would be great.

- HVAC unit has funky looking symbols where the temps should be and the Book of Despair icon...where to start with this guy?

Again, huge thanks for your guys' input and I'm really stoked to be joining the forum!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Aloha Justin,
Welcome back to the fold!
Love the green! (Nearly as good as Yellow!`))
How many miles on the beastie?
Coolant leak could be water pump. They seem to be good for about 100-130k miles. Belt is easy and cheap to renew.
If the hoses look good, then why spend the dough there? (If they look like originals, then absolutely.....)
Any service records?
I would do the normal services....Oil, Transmission, diffs and transfer case fluids.
Clean out the pollen filters, and lube the U joints.
Check all brake pads and rotors for undue wear.
The crud plastic idler pulleys may want replacement (Hint: Napa has US made steel pulleys for about 20 bucks a piece)
Have a good close look at the fusebox and wiring to same for signs of overheating.
"Checkbook" symbol on Hvac could be anything.....Lots of threads on this forum about wonky display. Usually just the connection to the LCD and not a difficult or expensive fix.
Did you get any working key fobs? if not, be dang sure the door latch switches are in good shape (sticky above)
See current thread about potential UK source of Fobs.
If you intend keeping this and wish to save millions of dollars by doing your own work, you will want a diagnostic tool like the BBS Nano
so you can have it tell you in plain English just what is wrong with Hvac unit, and all the rest of the systems.
It will pay for itself in the first 1 or 2 uses.......
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Bolt! Haha yes I suppose the yellow is a *bit* more rare in the wild :cool:
154k miles on the ticker. Not great service records tbh, but I'm prepared to do a lot of the work myself hopefully - the price was right even if it needs a few thousand $ or several hours of wrenchin'. Aside from the HVAC unit, everything electronic works (for now), which pleasantly surprise me - most of the time when people are getting rid of these there are a bunch of little bugs they don't want to deal with anymore. This seller recently got an LR4 and he and his wife didn't need the P38 anymore.

Will definitely do the usual services, great call on the filters and u-joints, thank you! Rotors looked and felt great, I'll be checking out the pads once I jack her up and put her on stands to remove the wheels for a good cleaning and inspection. Brakes felt spongy a bit on my test drive but I seem to remember that with my old RR, probably could use a flushing just for kicks. Thanks for the tips on the pulleys,fusebox, and HVAC display issue, I'll put those on the list.

Luckily enough I'll get two working fobs (as of now) and I was shocked when he told me he had both and they both worked haha.

Oh another thing I just thought of: the rear hatch button is intermittent at best. Eventually the hatch opened but we couldn't get the gate to open...I'll do some searching on the forum for this issue (I assume it's relatively common) unless anyone has a tried and true DIY link?

Finally, link to the best OBD diagnostic tool for our trucks? I googled BBS Nano and got crickets...but I will definitely invest in one. I have the VAG one for my other cars and it's paid for itself 3 times over (and allows me to do custom/euro-spec coding!).

Any breadcrumbs for a set of the headlight guards that fit in the brushguard? That's mod #1, without them it looks like my truck is wearing glasses with no lenses `)`)

Thanks gents!
 

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The rear hatch not working could actually be the passenger front door locking mechanism. Do you have "ghost" locking while driving? Basically does it central lock itself followed by unlocking without any input from you? If you don't have any issue with the front doors then its probably a connection issue at the hatch.
Since you are an Audi guy with VAG, plug that into your P38 for grins. Been awhile but I believe I had basic P38 OBD functions with it, of course none of the special stuff like EAS. I use a Ross Tech VAG tool, probably like yours. I have survived P38 DIY ownership for 20 years without a specific code reader other than RSW solutions tools for the EAS. In my experience, P38's don't throw codes likes Audi's (who throw whenever they are have a bad day) but YMMV. I have RSW's EAS Buddy and have only used it once, but its great to have as piece of mind.
Along with all the great tips above, I would inspect the heater o-rings for leakage. They are inside the cabin and if leaking, will get worse and douse your carpet causing your whole car to smell like coolant for months. Lots of info, links, and Audi heater core conversion info on this site.
Your coolant leak - check water pump weep holes visible from leaning over the front. Also the warming plate for the intake hose two little hose and a gasket on the heater plate famous or leaking. And very easy to check as on top of the engine. It would be great to know the age of the radiator, unlikely to be original at this point but would be good to know.
Looks like a great find, I love the color! Nice wheels too. Even as I contemplate finally going to an L322, I still find the P38 to be the best looking RR ever. And a perfect size among other SUV's.
 

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The other thing that causes intermittent tailgate release is the spring in the pushbutton rusting and not allowing the button to push in far enough to operate the microswitch. Simple enough to take it out and apart to investigate.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As far as the HVAC unit.

The two things that have put the Book icon on my P28 were faulty relays under the hood and resistors in either of the blower motors. If one of the blower motors is not working after replacing the relays try replacing the bower motor resistor. The resistor can be replaced for a less expensive fix vs. replacing the entire blower motor. It's very easy after the hassle of removing the blower motor. As far as the screen, those funky symbols are most likely just not all the LCDs showing. Look at the sticky post for Martin at the top of the forums page. He is selling a refurb kit to fix this. Very inexpensive and not hard to do. His website has all the info.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Congrats on the P38! Great color. Does it still have the EAS?

Here's a photo of my 98 Woodcote 4.0, but replaced with a 4.6 after it slipped a liner.
 

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Nice Rover and welcome back. For the headlight guards. Check eBay for a guy in Sanford FL.
That is where I got my guard with the guards.
Best of luck.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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PNWP38,

Welcome back! I love the green, got one myself! I'm north of Seattle by 1 1/2 hours, so if you need any help or want to get together for a run, I am totally open. Also, have you checked out Pacific Coast Rover Club (PCRC) or Overland Bound? Both have great communities here in the PNW. Both also do many meet-ups. In fact, there is one the first weekend of March with PCRC. Anyways, welcome back. Hope you have a good time with your P38. They are great vehicles.

-headlight guards- I have seen some on Ebay, I think.


Best Regards,
Pulaski
 

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On the tailgate, I had the phantom locking and unlocking and replaced the driver door latch. It fixed the tailgate issue for a moment, but then it happened again. Turns out their is a ground that goes to the passenger door latch and if that one goes you can get the locked tailgate and the phantom locking and unlocking. I replaced that and it has worked perfect ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The rear hatch not working could actually be the passenger front door locking mechanism. Do you have "ghost" locking while driving? Basically does it central lock itself followed by unlocking without any input from you? If you don't have any issue with the front doors then its probably a connection issue at the hatch.
Ok, I have read about the connection between the two. I haven't put enough miles on her yet, but thus far after 40mi or so I haven't experienced that. Will definitely keep my eye out for it, but my hunch is it's the button itself, since after 10 presses the hatch released.

Since you are an Audi guy with VAG, plug that into your P38 for grins. Been awhile but I believe I had basic P38 OBD functions with it, of course none of the special stuff like EAS. I use a Ross Tech VAG tool, probably like yours. I have survived P38 DIY ownership for 20 years without a specific code reader other than RSW solutions tools for the EAS. In my experience, P38's don't throw codes likes Audi's (who throw whenever they are have a bad day) but YMMV. I have RSW's EAS Buddy and have only used it once, but its great to have as piece of mind.
Oh interesting, never though of trying it just as an OBD reader, great call. Yes I have the Ross-Tech cable as well, very familiar with the VAGCOM tool VCDS so if I'm able to just use it as even a standard reader that would be great!

Along with all the great tips above, I would inspect the heater o-rings for leakage. They are inside the cabin and if leaking, will get worse and douse your carpet causing your whole car to smell like coolant for months. Lots of info, links, and Audi heater core conversion info on this site.
That is definitely on the list - thank you! Carpet is good but I love the idea of the preventative maintenance...that would suck if it leaked all over on the inside.

Your coolant leak - check water pump weep holes visible from leaning over the front. Also the warming plate for the intake hose two little hose and a gasket on the heater plate famous or leaking. And very easy to check as on top of the engine. It would be great to know the age of the radiator, unlikely to be original at this point but would be good to know.
Looks like a great find, I love the color! Nice wheels too. Even as I contemplate finally going to an L322, I still find the P38 to be the best looking RR ever. And a perfect size among other SUV's.
Thanks for these tips, I'll start here. I'll post pics of the radiator and get your guys' input. Feels great to be back into these trucks again! Thanks for the kind words, yes I feel lucky to have found her in such surprisingly good shape. These are my favorite wheels for the P38, so it was just icing on the cake`)

Totally agree, this is the best looking RR still! Now that Velar is another story...would really like to experience one of those! Thanks for all the great input NorCal, much appreciated man!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The other thing that causes intermittent tailgate release is the spring in the pushbutton rusting and not allowing the button to push in far enough to operate the microswitch. Simple enough to take it out and apart to investigate.
Perfect, that's exactly what I was thinking, due to its erratic function. Does it just unscrew or do I access it from the inside trim panel? I searched the RAVE body manual and didn't see it referenced oddly enough...

As far as the HVAC unit.

The two things that have put the Book icon on my P28 were faulty relays under the hood and resistors in either of the blower motors. If one of the blower motors is not working after replacing the relays try replacing the bower motor resistor. The resistor can be replaced for a less expensive fix vs. replacing the entire blower motor. It's very easy after the hassle of removing the blower motor. As far as the screen, those funky symbols are most likely just not all the LCDs showing. Look at the sticky post for Martin at the top of the forums page. He is selling a refurb kit to fix this. Very inexpensive and not hard to do. His website has all the info.
Awesome thank you Ken! Will absolutely get that rebuild kit - what a great resource Martin's pages are...the RR patron saint!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Congrats on the P38! Great color. Does it still have the EAS?

Here's a photo of my 98 Woodcote 4.0, but replaced with a 4.6 after it slipped a liner.
Thanks! Yes loving the Woodcote the more I stare at it :) EAS was swapped out for springs, so I'm good there. But really loved the EAS on my old Rover...just a lot of maintenance involved in them.

Nice Rover and welcome back. For the headlight guards. Check eBay for a guy in Sanford FL.
That is where I got my guard with the guards.
Best of luck.
Thank you, great to be back. Hmm ok, I've scoured ebay far and wide with no luck still. Anybody have the part number for them? I've even had difficulty finding that! Probably just going to contact some pick n pull yards or search craigslist and offer someone $ for their set if I get desperate hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #14
PNWP38,

Welcome back! I love the green, got one myself! I'm north of Seattle by 1 1/2 hours, so if you need any help or want to get together for a run, I am totally open. Also, have you checked out Pacific Coast Rover Club (PCRC) or Overland Bound? Both have great communities here in the PNW. Both also do many meet-ups. In fact, there is one the first weekend of March with PCRC. Anyways, welcome back. Hope you have a good time with your P38. They are great vehicles.

-headlight guards- I have seen some on Ebay, I think.


Best Regards,
Pulaski
Fantastic! Oh cool, yes I head up to Whidbey from time to time - would love to get together, I'm up in Bothell. Haven't checked out either of those clubs, I will now! A meetup sounds great, would love to see other guys' trucks to get ideas on projects for mine!

On the tailgate, I had the phantom locking and unlocking and replaced the driver door latch. It fixed the tailgate issue for a moment, but then it happened again. Turns out their is a ground that goes to the passenger door latch and if that one goes you can get the locked tailgate and the phantom locking and unlocking. I replaced that and it has worked perfect ever since.
Very interesting, ok great tip - might as well check that first since it could be the upstream issue causing the sporadic rear release. Thanks man!
 

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Yes, a faulty passenger door latch can mess up the tailgate opening. What is worse is that faulty latches, especially the driver's, can lead to an immobilized engine. I think one piece of preventive maintenance for the P38 is to replace both. Marty_nz has rebuilt ones for a reasonable price but a bit scarce for NA cars.
 

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I’ll look at mine and see if there is a part number on mine.
 

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Perfect, that's exactly what I was thinking, due to its erratic function. Does it just unscrew or do I access it from the inside trim panel? I searched the RAVE body manual and didn't see it referenced oddly enough...
To remove the tailgate release button you have to get the lower tailgate open first. Undo the 3 quarter turn fasteners that hold the inner trim panel off and that gives access to the button. 2 self tapping screws, rotate it and pull it out. Taking it apart is simple enough, rotate the rear of the assembly after lifting the tag that stops it from undoing itself and it all falls apart in your hand. The hardest part is finding a suitable spring to fit in there. I found one that was a bit too small diameter and 'modified' it.
 
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