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Discussion Starter #1
Been driving my 92 range rover about once a week for short errands. It has a new starter. This morning I went to start it and it didn't fire up. Sounded like there wasn't enough juice to even get the starter to get fully going. After about three attempts I would only here a mild clicking sound. I turned the headlights on and turned the key to see if the lights were working. Lights worked fine but I could hear that clicking sound again.

Any idea what it could be? I had to head to work so I didn't try to jump start it.
 

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Yes. Sounds like something is draining your battery while the car is sitting idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still don't know what caused the battery to drain. Finally got a battery charger and it's up and running again.
 

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Yes, worth diagnosing it. Car batteries don't like lots of draining/recharging.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this even though I got a degree in chemical engineering 14 years ago. Took forever to find a local auto shop over here in san francisco/marin. Finally found a battery charger in Napa on vacation. Googled my way through getting the battery charged. Just got a multi-meter and will fumble with it. Fun learning though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hopefully I did this right. With the ignition off, only reading I got was for the interior light fuse and the fuse that shows a door and key on it. Is this normal? Hoping I just left a light on.
 

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You need to set your multi-meter to measure amps, switch everything electrical off, disconnect the battery earth lead and install the meter in series between the earth lead and the battery -ve. With the car at rest (ie, everything off and locked up for the night) you wouldn't expect to see more than about 35 milliamps being drawn. If you do, then pull fuses one at a time until you find the one that drops the current drain to an acceptable level - that will be your problem circuit. Exactly what you do next rather depends on which circuit it is, but at least you will have a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So here is the latest. I've been checking the battery regularly and it has not been losing power after sitting around and after being driven on short trips. All was fine until I picked up my kids from school. Tried to start it , normal lights would light up but there was no attempt to start. No ticking even like there was when the battery was dead. Called AAA to take it home. He tried to jump after telling him the battery seemed to be fine and got the same results. Seems similar to what dschwartz is experiencing on a related current thread . . . viewtopic.php?f=4&t=34383

So now it sits in an awkward position in my driveway until I figure out what the problem is now. Any recommendations for a Land Rove mechanic in Marin county?
 

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Sounds like a connection is intermitently not being made in the starting circuit.

Can you read a wiring diagram?

With your multi meter you should be able to 'follow' the power through the cicuit and see where the problem is.

Just check the battery clamps and starter motor terminals are tight to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks again for the suggestions. Hope to one day have more time to do more of this on my own. Until than the best I can do is diagnose it with what little time and knowledge that I have.

I had my rover towed to Roverland in San Francisco which is about 20+ miles from my home. They told me that I could upgrade my AAA membership that covers tows up to 100 miles away. So I did for around $40. There's another level up that gets you 300 miles.

The problem was simply a bad connection to the starter. I unplugged and plugged what I could myself but didn't get anywhere. They replaced a connector and that fixed it.

While testing after the repair they noticed the fuel pump was acting up. I had noticed the car would often die after I started it and idle low. I also noticed that I would get poor acceleration on the freeway. It was a struggle to get over 55mph uphill. I always thought it was just the weaker engine as my old Rover was the lwb with the bigger engine. So my fuel pump was replaced and my baby is running nicely again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Danny said:
You need to set your multi-meter to measure amps, switch everything electrical off, disconnect the battery earth lead and install the meter in series between the earth lead and the battery -ve. With the car at rest (ie, everything off and locked up for the night) you wouldn't expect to see more than about 35 milliamps being drawn. If you do, then pull fuses one at a time until you find the one that drops the current drain to an acceptable level - that will be your problem circuit. Exactly what you do next rather depends on which circuit it is, but at least you will have a starting point.
Thank you Danny for your advise. After the fuel pump was replaced, I was still getting battery drainage. If I was reading the multimeter correctly than, than 37-38 milliamps are being drawn with the B2 fuse in place, the fuse for the interior lamps, clock, underhood lamp etc. Is that too high?

I did some quick tests to make sure the interior, door, and hood lamps were turning off. I'm hoping I just need a new battery. I removed the B2 fuse and will check the battery again in a few days. If battery is still losing voltage, than doesn't that mean it's a bad battery?
 
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