Hi, I own a 2015 RRS Supercharged with the Vogue package. It used to be my fathers vehicle but I have had it for a little over a year. During that year, the Auto Start/Stop feature never worked. During a routine oil change at the dealership I asked them to look into why it wasn't working. I figured it was a bad auxiliary battery, but they said both batteries tests came back as "good" and that it was probably something else, so I let it be for the moment since I didn't have the time to leave it an extra day for diagnosis.
Long story short, right after New Years, my vehicle dies. Both batteries are gone and are not taking a charge. I begin to research for the replacement batteries and none of my local parts stores can find an auxiliary battery that can fit my vehicle. I called the dealership and received a quote for $700.86 dollars to sell me both batteries, $289.00 for the main battery, $15.00 core deposit and the big whammy was the auxiliary battery at $340.77.
After that quote, I decided to not purchase the OEM part (rare for me!) because it seemed way too much for such a small battery, so the search began. If you look for a replacement battery either for a Jag or LR you will find that they have a proprietary part. It turns out that 99% of smaller capacity batteries have blade style posts, but the Jaguar/Land Rover OEM battery has regular cone or tower type posts
![283883]()
(Actual picture of my dead OEM battery)
If you have any type of "toys" (ATV, SBS, motorcycles, etc.) you will know that those batteries do not work on your Land Rover because of the difference in terminals, even if they are the same 14Ahr capacity and size. Having the closest dealership a few hundred miles away motivated me to find a better and more permanent solution. The next few days I spent a lot of time going through the different parts stores and internet sights looking for a proper fix that would not include cutting the terminals and splicing new ones in.
Here is what I came up with...
![283885]()
I followed both battery cables and found that they were both very easy to replace. The ground just goes from the battery to a grounded bolt, and the positive cable goes to another bolt under the plastic housing on top of the battery
![283886]()
Here you can see the new negative terminal, with the OEM part still there.
![283887]()
Here is a better view of the positive terminal, and you can actually see the OEM cable still in the background.
I even left both OEM cables in place (held with zip ties) in case the next owner wants to go back to original configuration. It has now been a few weeks with this fix, and the Start/Stop feature is working perfectly, the car runs better is feels more responsive both from the line as well as at higher speeds!
To sum it all up, I ended up spending well under 50% of what the dealership wanted for the batteries, and that $340 dollar auxiliary battery was replaced with a $40 dollar battery and 2 prefabbed battery cables from Auto Zone. For the record, the main battery was replaced with a Duralast Platinum (can't remember the model) that comes up in the Auto Zone computer as the correct replacement for the vehicle.
Hope this helps!
Long story short, right after New Years, my vehicle dies. Both batteries are gone and are not taking a charge. I begin to research for the replacement batteries and none of my local parts stores can find an auxiliary battery that can fit my vehicle. I called the dealership and received a quote for $700.86 dollars to sell me both batteries, $289.00 for the main battery, $15.00 core deposit and the big whammy was the auxiliary battery at $340.77.
After that quote, I decided to not purchase the OEM part (rare for me!) because it seemed way too much for such a small battery, so the search began. If you look for a replacement battery either for a Jag or LR you will find that they have a proprietary part. It turns out that 99% of smaller capacity batteries have blade style posts, but the Jaguar/Land Rover OEM battery has regular cone or tower type posts
(Actual picture of my dead OEM battery)
If you have any type of "toys" (ATV, SBS, motorcycles, etc.) you will know that those batteries do not work on your Land Rover because of the difference in terminals, even if they are the same 14Ahr capacity and size. Having the closest dealership a few hundred miles away motivated me to find a better and more permanent solution. The next few days I spent a lot of time going through the different parts stores and internet sights looking for a proper fix that would not include cutting the terminals and splicing new ones in.
Here is what I came up with...
I followed both battery cables and found that they were both very easy to replace. The ground just goes from the battery to a grounded bolt, and the positive cable goes to another bolt under the plastic housing on top of the battery
Here you can see the new negative terminal, with the OEM part still there.
Here is a better view of the positive terminal, and you can actually see the OEM cable still in the background.
I even left both OEM cables in place (held with zip ties) in case the next owner wants to go back to original configuration. It has now been a few weeks with this fix, and the Start/Stop feature is working perfectly, the car runs better is feels more responsive both from the line as well as at higher speeds!
To sum it all up, I ended up spending well under 50% of what the dealership wanted for the batteries, and that $340 dollar auxiliary battery was replaced with a $40 dollar battery and 2 prefabbed battery cables from Auto Zone. For the record, the main battery was replaced with a Duralast Platinum (can't remember the model) that comes up in the Auto Zone computer as the correct replacement for the vehicle.
Hope this helps!
