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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Just a heads-up right now - Atlantic British posted on their Facebook page that they would soon post a how-to video for replacing the timing chain guides. They already have a kit so my assumption is that it will be posted here:

https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TCK5030

They specifically mentioned a video for TCK5030.

Again just a heads-up.
 

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When I did my chains and guides on the 2004, there was no shortage of documentation on how to dot it.

:confused:
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #3
This, hopefully will be for the 2010-2012 L322 5.0L. AB seems to do good instructional videos - so I'm a) interested in their approach b) hoping to learn something new.
 

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This, hopefully will be for the 2010-2012 L322 5.0L. AB seems to do good instructional videos - so I'm a) interested in their approach b) hoping to learn something new.
That's excellent news! I do like their vids. Very helpful for me now since I'm just learning the ropes.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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The timing set listed is for a 10-12, so I'm going to go out on a limb and say that will be the years it's about....
 

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Yes, that would be helpful. I just assumed it was for the BMW era trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update - after a fashion.

Screen Shot 2019-01-17 at 11.30.04.png
 

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Interesting...about how long does it take to perform this procedure?

My local shop just quoted me 3500-6k for them to do it depending how bad it is. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's the latest - looks like they are in post-production of the video.

1.jpg
 

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I think people will be surprised how simple this engine is.

Biggest PIA is timing..

if you just want to replace the guides/tensioners you can keep the chain on, really great.


Can't wait for this video, I doubt my updated guides will ever go with my 5,000 oil intervals. Talked to my indy The Euroshop up in Lake Villa, they have a customer with a 300,000 mile LR4. Original guides, original chain, original tensioners, basically everything but the water pump. Apparently the guy does lots of highway miles and does short term intervals.
 

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Please note... this video is a full overhaul.

Generally all you need to do to make the engine run perfect again is remove the timing covers, and not the valve covers thus allowing the injectors to be left in place.

You can replace the tensioners and guides without removing the chain and with that no re-timing of the engine. So far there have been almost no cases where the chain physically stretches to the point where replacement is necessary. On a 200k+ mile engine, maybe that's a different story.
 

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I think people will be surprised how simple this engine is.

Biggest PIA is timing..

if you just want to replace the guides/tensioners you can keep the chain on, really great.


Can't wait for this video, I doubt my updated guides will ever go with my 5,000 oil intervals. Talked to my indy The Euroshop up in Lake Villa, they have a customer with a 300,000 mile LR4. Original guides, original chain, original tensioners, basically everything but the water pump. Apparently the guy does lots of highway miles and does short term intervals.
I am also strongly considering using the Atlantic British video (just watched the whole thing) for the steps just prior to the "easy way" shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1E4ahs-SHI&index=167&list=LLM82n4ENDuXUZRZtzYR1_RA&t=0s so only the Tensioners and Guides are replaced. Currently throwing no codes, just minor laxity in timing chain felt using pick at oil-fill, and maybe some new engine noise. My indie shop was quoting about $3,400.00 before tax for the complete job with new chains.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Please note... this video is a full overhaul.

Generally all you need to do to make the engine run perfect again is remove the timing covers, and not the valve covers thus allowing the injectors to be left in place.

You can replace the tensioners and guides without removing the chain and with that no re-timing of the engine. So far there have been almost no cases where the chain physically stretches to the point where replacement is necessary. On a 200k+ mile engine, maybe that's a different story.
Thanks Keralis, your statement ^^^ gives me more of a "warm and fuzzy" about doing the "easy way" as predictive maintenance.
 
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