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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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dropped sleeve is a slow usually harmless tap when warm that can be fixed with stainless steel screws and loctite.

cracked block is overheating and/or milkshake, sometimes accompanied. either you use block sealant or you tear the engine apart and fit top hats. later engines also suffer from piston slap.

anyways a fast tap is rockers 99.999999999% of the time
 

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From the video the tap is at camshaft speed so that would point to a rocker. After 20 odd years it's possible that the rockers have been changed at some point and there's a TSB dealing with a fault affecting some.

284284
 

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1999 P38 vogue
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19 Posts
Not being stupid but did mechanic check camshaft lobes ---- before Xmas had to look at a rover p6 V8 and it had worn down lobes on 7&8 ---- it's basically same block so wonder if cam is the issue ?
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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Discussion Starter #25
I'll check with the mechanic on Monday regarding the cam lobes being checked, but the rockers were defective and replaced, got it back couple days ago and was running fine; then today the dreaded ticking has returned as well as the false low brake fluid warning (no corrosion on the leads). Thoughts? It's the same ticking; it's almost as if nothing has been done. My partner is worried about offending the mechanic and owner by bringing them all of the help from this helpful forum, should I tell him that it's not offensive or rude; because if they actually fixed it there would be no tick and how else are they going to learn?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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First of all my experience is with petrol engines of other makes and not specifically the p38 V8 since I have the diesel.

I am really a bystander in this, but from my experience camshafts are usually stellite faced before regrinding. I have had a few done. It is a super hard steel that is put down as a weld then ground back to the right profile. The camshaft would have been case hardened originally, a few thou thick, and this would be ground off if it was just a regrind. Might be worth asking what their supplier actually did. Also was the new cam profile i.e. timing and lift, the same as the factory spec? Or did someone decide to grind it with a more sporting profile? Steeper ramp and more overlap on the valves?
You change the camshaft and the rockers as a set. So either new rockers (or refaced) as well. Usually then add moly lube to a new cam to run it in. Takes a few hundred miles till the cam lobe beds in to the follower.
 

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You change the camshaft and the rockers as a set. So either new rockers (or refaced) as well.
Not quite on the V8 as it's a pushrod not overhead cam engine. So it is the followers that must be replaced with the camshaft. Followers are hydraulic so you need a fair amount of slack before you get a tapping noise as the follower takes up the slack. Pre-load must be correct so the follower is operating within the design range, see V8 Developments - Technical - Valve Train. Advice ref Moly lube is absolutely essential though.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Yes, you are right Richard. I know it is pushrod but I should have said camshaft and followers changed as a set, not the rockers.
I knew what I meant, but unfortunately nobody else did. Lol.
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
My partner is refusing to ask the mechanic about any of this because as he puts it, "they're responsible for the work and if it isn't done right then they'll have to do it again". Should I talk to the mechanic myself regarding this; cause I feel like if they had of done the job right then there'd be absolutely NO reason for the tick to return a second time, right?
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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Discussion Starter #31
Camshaft - regrind, Manifold Gasket Set - Intake, Cam followers, Rocker Arms, Rocker Shaft, Pushrod, Valve Cover Gasket, Crankshaft seal, Camshaft Gear, Crankshaft Gear, Timing Chain, Timing Cover Gasket, Water Pump Gasket, Oil Cooler O-Ring
To quote the mechanic's work invoice this is what they did, and it costed $6000 so you can see why were at our wits end with this, as well as now there's an oil leak, lost about a quart in 2 days and it's coming from 3 spots. Got the Rover back the first time and it started ticking the next day. And now two days later it starts ticking again, any thoughts or insights?
 

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That list includes pushrod,.just one not a full matched set of 16? Why would it need one pushrod too? After having paid out virtually the cost of a complete reconditioned engine, I'd take it back and get them to investigate further and sort out the oil leaks while they are at it.
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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Discussion Starter #33
That list includes pushrod,.just one not a full matched set of 16? Why would it need one pushrod too? After having paid out virtually the cost of a complete reconditioned engine, I'd take it back and get them to investigate further and sort out the oil leaks while they are at it.
They did replace all 16 cause on the invoice it says x16, they only list the item description and beside it how many of each but yeah I'll make sure they investigate it further, but I'm worried about having to drive it back to the mechanic's, can this bad ticking cause any real damage just by driving it back there? (About a 45 min drive)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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if they let you take the vehicle then its right to drive , if it dies on the way back as you said, its under warranty and you have virtually payed for a new motor so maybe you will get what you paid for , a new motor. do you have another mechanic that you can see for a second opinion .
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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Discussion Starter #35
Unfortunately I don't have another mechanic to get a second opinion. The owner of the shop told my partner that they could salvage the engine after my partner kept saying he would rather get another engine, he should go with his gut and not what the owner says. This has been nothing but a headache.
 

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If you're not mechanically inclined enough to make a diagnosis, I think it is a must that you take the vehicle to a reputable shop for a second opinion.

Perhaps, there's a Range Rover dealership or a known indie shop that specializes in Range Rover somewhat nearby? Worst case, maybe you can hire a pre-purchase inspector of vehicles?

It's not going to be in-depth, but any of the above options should be able to make a preliminary diagnosis for something like $100-150.

If you've paid $6,000 for the repair, I would certainly look to get reimbursed for the cost of secondary inspection as well as to have the engine properly repaired at no additional cost.

One of the main reason I pretty much do all my repairs DIY for all the vehicles I own, is due to a bitter experience getting screwed for a repair in the past. The ordeal also cost me close to $6k in my instance (not engine related, however), almost 10 years ago so it was a costly lesson for me. I don't know what the protocol is for stuff like this where you live, but perhaps you might want to consider hiring a legal counsel for proper resolution.
 

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1997 Range Rover 4.0 SE
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Discussion Starter #37
Live in British Columbia, and we too have a distrust for mechanics after the first one completely ruined the original engine by cracking the block from a head gasket replacement. I'll look into the secondary inspection but the one from Land Rover MCL Motors here in Vancouver costs more than $100-$150. Now I'm inclined to have us go there to the mechanics and tell them what's what; and they're work is guaranteed for 2 years, and this is the second time we have to take the Rover back to them. As for being mechanically inclined; I am but my partner keeps telling me that I'm wasting my time learning the mechanical workings of the Rover and that they're the mechanic's blah blah blah. Ugh, I'm just trying to save him energy and money and time.
 

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1999 P38 vogue
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19 Posts
Take ancillary belt off and start engine ----- had engine on Dyno today ---- tapping noise ---- water pump !!!! As for oil leak probably rocker cover ---- I super glue gasket to cover before I got them -_- hope that helps you ?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
There are quite a few active Land Rover club members in the Vancouver area, who would be able to refer you to a local shop that has experience with older Rover's. Go to the RoverLanders of BC website and ask. This isn't exclusive to Land Rover; independant shops that specialize in a vehicle type are usually much better with older vehicles than the dealership.
 
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