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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm currently undergoing a head gasket job. I read all about the OEM bolts, original and torque to yield ones, and decided to spend a little more and get the ARP stud kit.

I've just read something online that freaked me out ! According to this site:

http://www.offroadexperience.com/wcb/enginemods.htm

Stud Kit, Racing -cant' get heads off with engine in car w/studs in place in Rover. 124-4003. $230.00
is this correct ? if it is, I'm in for a big amount of pain. My mechanic will murder me ($$$) if I he has to pull the engine out.

Somebody please clarify before I get a heart attack ! 8~

N.
 

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ummm, if it won't clear, you pull the studs....they have an allen-key hole in the end for inserting/removing. Put the head on, insert the studs, install the nuts....reverse if needed. I used them on a HG job last spring, no problems.
 

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I second what shupack says.

I have the ARP stud kit on mine and had the same concerns. I have been assured that you just remove the studs using an Allen Key.

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys !

For a moment I was feeling awful. Just the thought of having to buy a TTY bolt set after I've bought the ARP studs was disgusting.

Any concerns on what lube to use ? ARP sells one, but can you get by with something else ?

N.
 

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I just installed new heads last weekend with ARPs. I only paid $130 plus $20 for shipping. Th epassenger side went on with the stufds in place. On the drivers side I left the longer center studs out for clearance past the brake components.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rrtoadhall said:
I just installed new heads last weekend with ARPs. I only paid $130 plus $20 for shipping. Th epassenger side went on with the stufds in place. On the drivers side I left the longer center studs out for clearance past the brake components.
Good tip, thanks toad.

BTW, I paid $127 shipped :)

N.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
david despain said:
what do you guys use for torque specs with this stud kit?
David,

studs arrived yesterday. According to the instructions included, you should torque to 80 lbs ft BUT I've read on this board that you should torque to 60 lbs ft (in 3 x 20 lbs ft increments).

BTW, this is the first time for my mechanic with ARP head studs. Can anybody provide instructions/tips for a Rover v8 engine ?

I don't have the instructions with me right now, but since the torque value was off, now I distrust a little bit the included instructions. I value real life experience from this board above that little piece of printed paper. :)


Thanks in advance,

N.
 

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I have heard from a couple of sources that the 80 listed on the directions is too high. I used 30/50/60 for my three settings with the studs at about 20 using an allen wrench to snug them in place. Don't forget to oil your threads and both sides of the washers prior to tightening.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks toad.

BTW, did you use any threadlocker (Loctite Blue or Red) ? What about the torqueing and loosening method, is it recomended ?

n.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi guys,

to make a long story short, one of my 6month old HG failed due to overheating. Fortunately I had installed ARP head studs. My Indy, btw he's the guy who did the previous HG job, told me that he felt the studs where a little loose when taking the head out. I originally told him to use the instructions on these thread (ie: torque to 60 in 3 x 20 increments). BTW, I also used Elring composite HG.

Now he's asking me again to confirm these torque settings. I suspect the guy assembling the heads didn't follow the procedure to the T. So, just for sanity check purposes, are these instructions correct ? Any tips I should relay to my Indy ?

Heads have been checked and they are true, no warpage. Block surface is good too. Gasket is busted on the middle cilinders, RH side.

Thanks in advance,

N.
 

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NachoMan77 said:
Hi guys,

to make a long story short, one of my 6month old HG failed due to overheating. Fortunately I had installed ARP head studs. My Indy, btw he's the guy who did the previous HG job, told me that he felt the studs where a little loose when taking the head out. I originally told him to use the instructions on these thread (ie: torque to 60 in 3 x 20 increments). BTW, I also used Elring composite HG.

Now he's asking me again to confirm these torque settings. I suspect the guy assembling the heads didn't follow the procedure to the T. So, just for sanity check purposes, are these instructions correct ? Any tips I should relay to my Indy ?

Heads have been checked and they are true, no warpage. Block surface is good too. Gasket is busted on the middle cilinders, RH side.

Thanks in advance,

N.
As head gaskets do settle after a while, should they not be re-torqued after say 200 miles of initial use.
The older Alfa Romeo engines have studs for the cylinder heads and we always retighten after 100-200 miles of initial installation.
 

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I have yet to retorque ARP head studs, and never had an issue.
You need to be very careful about over torquing the ARP's in the Rover engine though. The bolts will strip the block too easily.
There should be some lube in the ARP box that is used on the studs (after making sure the holes are 100% clean and dry).
I use anti seize on the washers to stop them galling the heads when torquing.
I torque in 3 steps, up to 60-65ft lbs, and never had a problem.
If the heads and deck are perfectly smooth, then its either a bad gasket or the installer did it wrong somehow.

Martin
 

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Ditto. Composite gaskets with properly used studs require no retorque. As Martin mentioned it is crucial to follow the ARP install directions and oil the studs and washers to ensure a smooth, even, accurate and reliable torque. If the directions were not followed or 60lbs was not reached it is very possible to have a failed gasket.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Lubing the washers is also an important step IMHO. The washers can dig into the aluminum giving a very false reading if not lubricated before installation.

Martin
 

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Good day Gents,

I just ordered two sets of ARP studs to use on two 4.6 builds but am feeling a bit worried......
A friend of mine just built a motor using ARP studs and he pulled out the threads 4 of the holes in the block using the procedure and specs given in the ARP kit box. It does say 80ft/lbs as the final torque but This seems to be a bit mutch!?

He now believes the length of the 7/16 thread on the stud is too short as the stud sticks out allmost 3/4" above the nut when torqued down?
How long is the 7/16 thread on these studs? Just check if the sets we got are correct.

Is the 60ft/lbs spec sufficient for a 4.6 build? How much "pre-load" does that give on the gasket? (how much force is holding the head down with that torque on the finer threads of the nut)?

Cheers,
EbenH.[HR][/HR]
 
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