When you remove the oil filler cap, what does it look like inside the valley?
It is the LR designed extractor point.If that is a sealed off dipstick tube, I doubt if an extractor will pull up oil from the pan. That tube most likely just pressed into the block just like any other dipstick tube on any other car. Hopefully I'm wrong and it will work. Good luck.
That's quite correct. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is what you want, because it is compatible with Diesel Particulate Filter-equipped vehicles. Check the manual, this oil meets ACEA C2 spec. "Regular" Mobil 1 doesn't.Be careful with the Mobil 1. It doesn't "officially" meet the LR standard, only the Castro Pro or Ravenol does. Personally, I would have no issues with the Mobile 1 but if under warranty, it is probably wise to use the correct oil to eliminate any issues with warranty if you have a major engine failure.
Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 is the correct Mobil 1 oil for the diesel as it is formulated to work with the urea-equipped engines. Normal Mobil 1 is not. Why there's a difference is beyond me, since the urea solution is injected downstream of the exhaust valves, but there it is. ESP costs the same as normal Mobil 1, so other than it's special order from your supplier, there's no reason not to use it. The fill is 6.3 qt / 6 liters.I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic for my 2012 Range Rover and have not had any issues. I believe when a manufacturer endorses or recommends one particular oil brand over another it comes down to money--not quality or specs. You'll be ok as long as you don't go bargain hunting for cheap low quality oil or put in the wrong weight. As for vacuuming out the old oil, I'd rather go through the trouble of getting under the vehicle, unbolting the skid plates to get to the drain plug. I'm not sure if the suction process gets all the oil at the bottom of the pan. Gravity is working against you in that endeavor.
My Rover's V8 Supercharged engine takes 8 quarts... I can never fit 8 full quarts using the Vacuum method as if I do install 8 full quarts I get the dreaded "Overfilled" warning. So I fill almost 7.5 quarts in her and check the oil level over the next week before each morning start-up... So I always end up with .5 or more quarts when I buy 8 Quarts of the Castrol Professional 0w-20 from the Dealer. I like to have at least 1 full quart riding with me in the cargo area in a Zip-Lock bag for "Just-in-case"... So when I buy, I buy 1 extra quart at a time to make 9 quarts. YMMV...Does anyone ever need more than 6 liters for the change (assuming vac method)? Just curious for when I place my order (6 or 7 liters).
If you are talking about the "Aluminum-Tube" that sits right in the middle of the Oil/Fill under the oil/cap... That tube runs all the way from the fill hole and down all the way to the bottom most part of the Sump and/or Oil-Pan. It's used for evacuating as much of the "Used-Oil" as possible using the "Sump-PumP" and/or Vacuum method. You attach the Sumps hose to it tightly and pump the Sump to extract the oil. Takes about 2 minutes to drain and my favorite method ever for oil fluid changes as only a drop or 3 gets in the engine compartment...If that is a sealed off dipstick tube, I doubt if an extractor will pull up oil from the pan. That tube most likely just pressed into the block just like any other dipstick tube on any other car. Hopefully I'm wrong and it will work. Good luck.