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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got 2017 Range rover sport Diesel, prefer to change my own oil, not much online to watch a video for reference for the diesels. I assume Range Rover owners generally dont do their own servicing. I know Landrover uses Castrol fully synthetic engine oil 5w30, i got some mobile 1 fully synthetic left over from the Caddilac, anyone out there use mobil one? What brand of oil filter should i be buying? Should i replace the drain plug, i dont plan to vacuum the oil out. I hate this vehicle lol, miss my service friendly caddy
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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Look at your owner's manual and make sure that the M1 fits the specifications for your motor. For my 2013 petrol, I used Ravenol and really like it. I got it on Amazon. I purchase OEM filters from Atlantic British. Do yourself a favor and use the vacuum extraction method. This is so quick and easy and clean. No need to remove any cladding. No need to change out the drain plug. You can do the job in a tux, if you wanted.

I found my Escalades to be easy to work on, but found access to the drain plug to be a headache without heavy duty jackstands.
 

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I assume Range Rover owners generally dont do their own servicing.
:shock: Your kidding, right?

Many folks here do our own changes. The concept is the same for Diesels as it is Petrols. Purchase the correct oil. Save yourself time and road grime and use the vacuum method. Newer Land Rover models are designed to have the oil changed this way. you can lower to access mode and be upright for the oil change.

Purchase any quality brand of filter. A lot of folks use Mann filters.

If your really want to be under your Rover there is no need to replace the drain plug, just replace the sealing washer. Of course it will take you 15-20 minutes to remove all the fasteners from the undercarriage plate to reach it. :lol:

There are a few write ups on the vacuum method. it is a clean, easy process. Many folks purchase one of the Mighty Vac models for the ease of use and having a sealed canister to take your used oil to a recycle location.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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Be careful with the Mobil 1. It doesn't "officially" meet the LR standard, only the Castro Pro or Ravenol does. Personally, I would have no issues with the Mobile 1 but if under warranty, it is probably wise to use the correct oil to eliminate any issues with warranty if you have a major engine failure.
 

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+1 on using the correct STJLR.03.5005 oil spec, at least within warranty. Some evidence suggests the Ravenol might actually be a little better quality than the Castrol. You'll only be able to get the Castrol from the dealer, but the Ravenol is available online.

Buy a vacuum extractor like this. The Td6 engine offers two methods of changing the oil - the traditional drain plug and the vacuum extractor method. Instead of a dipstick, it has a capped-off tube that runs down to the bottom of the oil pan, should be just to the left of the block as you're looking from the front of the car - this is specifically for the vacuum method. Make sure your vehicle is level if you use the vacuum method. I prefer it, because it's no mess, no lift required, and you don't need to buy a new drain plug or crush ring for the pan every time, which are single-use. Just take your vacuum container full of oil to Pep Boys or wherever and dump it out.

The oil filter is also on the top of the engine, in the V toward the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dang, none on Canadas amazon, where does Atlantic British ship from? USA? Looks like i am going to have to call a dealer, closest one is 5 hours away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found my Escalades to be easy to work on, but found access to the drain plug to be a headache without heavy duty jackstands.
Jack stands for what? Drive it on ramps and change the oil, an Escalade doesnt require heavy duty jack stands lol Your normal 2 ton cheapos will work just fine. The drain plug has very easy access, but i hated how the oil filter was tucked away
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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Where are you located?

You could probably buy the Castrol from where the dealer gets there's. Some distributors will sell to an individual. If not you could ask the lubricant distributor who they could order it from without going to the dealer. There are independent Land Rover shops that surely need to buy it and probably wouldn't buy it from the dealer.

https://maps.castrol.com/
 

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Where are you located?

You could probably buy the Castrol from where the dealer gets there's. Some distributors will sell to an individual. If not you could ask the lubricant distributor who they could order it from without going to the dealer. There are independent Land Rover shops that surely need to buy it and probably wouldn't buy it from the dealer.

https://maps.castrol.com/
So far, the Castrol Edge Pro that's sold commercially in the US is a different blend than what carries the STJLR.03.5005 spec - at least commercially-sourced bottles from US distributors don't have that spec printed on it. I ran into this with VW's proprietary 3.0L TDI oil spec as well early on - they used Castrol LL03, and that was only available through the dealer until Mobil 1 ESP became widely available, which wasn't until around 2014 - my Touareg was a 2010.

Here is what Castrol's US website says when you use their vehicle selector to select Land Rover -> Range Rover Sport L494 -> Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 + DPF (190kW) (2017-).

Here's what it says when I tell it I'm from the UK. Which is interesting because it's different even than what the dealers here are putting in.

The Ravenol carries that spec and is available commercially, so I would expect the very few independent mechanics who have seen a Td6 engine (it's only been in the US since I think the 2015 model year, and until 2017 only on very low volume RRS and FFRR models) would just order Ravenol off Amazon and be done with it.

The dealer probably orders theirs through LRNA, who likely imports it through a corporate agreement with Castrol as their OE supplier.

Our only hope for finding this stuff at Pep Boys or Wal-Mart is for the Ford F150 PowerStroke to become wildly popular and require an equivalent spec. It's the same engine with a beefier crank and I think a slightly different turbo.
 

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The dealer probably orders theirs through LRNA, who likely imports it through a corporate agreement with Castrol as their OE supplier.

Our only hope for finding this stuff at Pep Boys or Wal-Mart is for the Ford F150 PowerStroke to become wildly popular and require an equivalent spec. It's the same engine with a beefier crank and I think a slightly different turbo.
After I typed my post I thought that the oil could be a LRNA import. Although it would seem like a huge hassle to bring in bottles of oil when the dealers already have bulk deliveries of various oils, lubricants and other fluids already. Not to mention most costly and wasteful. I am sure that the dealers would rather buy hundreds of gallons delivered to their bulk tanks that hundreds of gallons in bottles or buckets sitting on shelves that is much hard to keep track of.

As for locating the oil locally I was referring to lubricant distributors (wholesale) not retailers like Pep Boys, Wal-Mart, etc.

Like:
http://www.santiemidwest.com/contact.php
http://www.ppclubricants.com/market/automotive
https://www.acornpetroleuminc.com/products
https://www.petrochoice.com/contact-form


Perhaps the parts suppliers in the UK would ship it to the US. Atlantic British or Rovers North perhaps also.
 

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Does anyone ever need more than 6 liters for the change (assuming vac method)? Just curious for when I place my order (6 or 7 liters).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
looks like we will just have to stock up at the dealer on our next trip to the city. I am from Flin Flon, Manitoba, 8 hours north of Winnipeg. We literally are the only ones with a Range Rover in this town lol so finding a shop that would carry it, is pretty much highly unlikely lol. Thanks for all the help guys. Who knew buying oil would be so hard lol Its ok we plan to go to the city soon to get a block heater installed. I wonder how much that is going to cost.
 

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Does anyone ever need more than 6 liters for the change (assuming vac method)? Just curious for when I place my order (6 or 7 liters).
It's 6 Liters. Make sure to fully loosen the filter cap before you extract or drain oil so the oil in the housing drains into the sump.
 

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looks like we will just have to stock up at the dealer on our next trip to the city. I am from Flin Flon, Manitoba, 8 hours north of Winnipeg. We literally are the only ones with a Range Rover in this town lol so finding a shop that would carry it, is pretty much highly unlikely lol. Thanks for all the help guys. Who knew buying oil would be so hard lol Its ok we plan to go to the city soon to get a block heater installed. I wonder how much that is going to cost.
Bobby Clarke might have a Land Rover of some sort while visiting. There are a view people in his company that drive them. :)
 

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I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic for my 2012 Range Rover and have not had any issues. I believe when a manufacturer endorses or recommends one particular oil brand over another it comes down to money--not quality or specs. You'll be ok as long as you don't go bargain hunting for cheap low quality oil or put in the wrong weight. As for vacuuming out the old oil, I'd rather go through the trouble of getting under the vehicle, unbolting the skid plates to get to the drain plug. I'm not sure if the suction process gets all the oil at the bottom of the pan. Gravity is working against you in that endeavor.
 

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My first oil change on my 2014 I removed the skid pan and the accompanying millions of bolts. I had the oil draining for a few hours. I called a friend of mine who is a service manager at a nearby RR dealership to verify oil capacity. He told me the dealership vacuums out the oil. I hooked up my vacuum pump and was able to extract about 1/4-1/3 of additional oil out of the sump after draining the sump by removing the drain plug. There is no reason not to vacuum the oil. It's much faster, neater and can be done wearing a suit.
 

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Interesting that this topic popped up as I want to do intermediate oil changes on my SDV8. Problem so far is removing the cap on the suction pipe. I can loosen and pull up about 1/2 inch but it stops and I am afraid to apply more pressure. To limit oil dilution I aim to change intermittently by suction and have the dealer do the normal change of oil and filter. I also aim to test the oil and I am sure we I will see the oil change message come on as a factor of the algorithm rather than oil quality.

If anyone has removed the suction tube cap and can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate help.
 

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There is no cap on the tube unless the diesel is different from the gas models. Remove the filler cap and the end of the tube is looking at you.

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