RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I get random "Tailgate Open" indicators every now and again. I also noticed this evening that, while riding over bumpy road surfaces, the rear tailgate now has developed a rattle. So I checked the upper portion of the tailgate (while it was fully closed) to see if there was any play/movement and sure enough, there is. For example, while it is fully locked and latched, the top portion of the tailgate likes to move a little bit when pulled from the handle.

Does anyone else's rover do this? I feel like the latch needs to be tightened and hope it's something that I could do on my own. It seems possible to be a DIY job however I am not sure if some of the trim needs to be removed in order to accomplish this task. Anyone else go through this task?

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Yep, happens all the time with my 2007. I had the same issue with my 2003 and 2006. Despite dealer fixes, the problem keeps coming back. One of those undocumented features...I will be interested to learn of any remedies discovered by our fellow forum members.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
Pliers, clamp on to the screw in the center of the latch on the lower part of the tailgate, remove, dab lock-tight on the threads, re-fit. :clap:
 

·
Registered
2007 HSE
Joined
·
388 Posts
My tailgate has been rattling, but no "Tailgate Open" warnings. Yesterday I was getting stuff out/putting stuff in and noticed there was even more movement than usual. I opened up the top tailgate and noticed the bottom latch was no longer held in place -- it was sliding in its location in the lower tailgate. So in the picture, the latch bar you see was moving about 1/2 inch side-to-side.

The fix was to remove the plastic trim piece along the top edge of the lower tailgate. The little nubs are actually on top of, and come off of, phillips-head screws. Take off the six screws, remove the plastic trim, use an Allen wrench to tighten the bolts that hold the bottom latch in place, replace trim and screws, and it's done. Maybe a 10-minute job. Fortunately I had a set of allen wrenches, and one fit, so it was pretty easy to do. Note: The plastic nubs are pretty soft plastic, and come off fairly easily, but use care to not cut them. Finger nails can work to pry them off, or use a small knife or flat head screwdriver.

I wasn't sure what was going to happen when I did this, so I took the first four screws off with the gate up, then lowered it for the last two, removing the trim, and tightening the lower latch piece -- just paranoia that something would fall inside the tailgate if it was up, but it doesn't really look like anything would have.

Top tailgate still moves a bit, but seems better so far.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,758 Posts
A very timely thread as I noticed ours is also a bit loose. Thanks for the info
 

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
106 Posts
Mine had developed that symptom before. And the trunk light would never go off.

I found that the spring inside the tailgate (upper) latch assembly was broken so the latch would not reset its location after the last successful tailgate shut. So the jaw caught the striker but could not firmly "embrace" it, giving the upper tailgate space to move; also because of a open loop (I guess) it would tell the ECU that the tailgate had not been securely closed, popping up the "tailgate open" message and keeping the light on. Luckily the spring was not broken at right center, so DIY-ed a hook and hooked it back place.

If it is not repairable, replace the latch assembly, it costs about USD 160? Cannot remember. Replacement is simple and absolutely DIY-able.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Anytime you have to retighten a screw or bolt, apply blue Loctite to the threads, it may prevent future failure, or at the very least extend the time.

You could also use red Loctite, but its not recommended for non-permanent applications.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top