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Discussion Starter #1
My paint is looking pretty bad on the my RRS. I am thinking about getting it resprayed. Anybody have any experience with this?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Automotive painting used to be a hobby of mine: what's your question?

As for your paint: have you tried to have it professionally restored instead of repainting? I'd repaint only as an absolute last resort: a professional job (dismantled truck) is going to cost you about $6,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure what you mean by restored but I have had it buffed , waxed , detailed etc.... The paint isn't terrible and with a fresh coat of wax it looks pretty solid but once it rains or gets dirty it looks crappy to me. It has the spiderwebs all over it.

What is the restoring process??
 

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If it is just spiderweb, a good detail will take care of it. I mean, a GOOD detail. I am thinking around $400 or so with a rotary. A Good detail takes about 10-12 hours. Those 2-3 hour places will not do a good job. You can hire an individual and it will be a 2 day affair.

I have a black 2007 RRS and my paint is excellent. Then again, I always detail it. I use microfiber towels (never re-use if they drop on the ground) and clay.Spiderwebs can be polished out. Check out Meguiar Forums. I learned a great deal of car paint maintenance technique on that site. I've seen dulled out, dried out 15 year old paint on Dodge Neons restored to their original luster.

Here is an example thread on how these guys restore the paint:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=40796
This is in the "extreme make-over section"

Wash, clay, wash again. micro-fiber dry. Polish. Wash again. Wax, clear coat top.
Rinse, wash, and repeat.
 

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I thought you mentioned you might sell it. If so.. get that baby detailed and then sell it when its raining. She'll look just fine `)
 

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eball77 said:
Not sure what you mean by restored but I have had it buffed , waxed , detailed etc.... The paint isn't terrible and with a fresh coat of wax it looks pretty solid but once it rains or gets dirty it looks crappy to me. It has the spiderwebs all over it.

What is the restoring process??
Ok spiderwebs can mean two different things which have everything to do with your paint. If they are just swirls in the clearcoat, then you absolutely do not need a respray - a quality detail by a reputable shop will put it right. However, if the webs you're talking about are actually cracks or checks in the paint, the yes, consider a re-spray. If you're paint is that bad, then it's probably been resprayed already! Can you post some high res pics?

To me it sounds like you are in desperation mode, but don't need to be. I'd be shocked if an RRS had cracking paint, so you likely have swirling which was removed (read: covered up) by some Jose Jiminez detail shop that used a product FULL of oils which left your car gleaming as you drove away. Or you yourself bought some low grade wax with said oils. Either way, it looks great until the oils get washed out of the swirls which is usually in the 1st or 2nd wash. You need an abraisive polish to properly remove those swirls.

go here and let your mind explore - http://www.autopia.org - you'll likely find that you are panicking for nothing.

Oh yeah if you do sell it, do like Serb says or if its not raining wait until 1/2 hour before dusk.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ukraine Range said:
eball77 said:
Not sure what you mean by restored but I have had it buffed , waxed , detailed etc.... The paint isn't terrible and with a fresh coat of wax it looks pretty solid but once it rains or gets dirty it looks crappy to me. It has the spiderwebs all over it.

What is the restoring process??
Ok spiderwebs can mean two different things which have everything to do with your paint. If they are just swirls in the clearcoat, then you absolutely do not need a respray - a quality detail by a reputable shop will put it right. However, if the webs you're talking about are actually cracks or checks in the paint, the yes, consider a re-spray. If you're paint is that bad, then it's probably been resprayed already! Can you post some high res pics?

To me it sounds like you are in desperation mode, but don't need to be. I'd be shocked if an RRS had cracking paint, so you likely have swirling which was removed (read: covered up) by some Jose Jiminez detail shop that used a product FULL of oils which left your car gleaming as you drove away. Or you yourself bought some low grade wax with said oils. Either way, it looks great until the oils get washed out of the swirls which is usually in the 1st or 2nd wash. You need an abraisive polish to properly remove those swirls.

go here and let your mind explore - http://www.autopia.org - you'll likely find that you are panicking for nothing.

Oh yeah if you do sell it, do like Serb says or if its not raining wait until 1/2 hour before dusk.
I'm not going to sell it. I'm tired of wasting money on cars all the time and I love the RRS so I am going to keep this sucker for a while.

I had to have the hood repainted a couple years ago because of a poorly applied clear bra. So that may be part of it and I suspect it has been repainted in other areas too based on what I have heard form a few different detailers. I bought it used so I don't know for sure.

I must just not be getting the right detail job. I guess I just get frustrated because the black paint it so hard to maintain. I am going to do some research and try to find a quality detail shop out here in Orlando or Atlanta next month and see what they can do.

Thanks a lot for the input!
 

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eball77 said:
Ukraine Range said:
eball77 said:
Not sure what you mean by restored but I have had it buffed , waxed , detailed etc.... The paint isn't terrible and with a fresh coat of wax it looks pretty solid but once it rains or gets dirty it looks crappy to me. It has the spiderwebs all over it.

What is the restoring process??
Ok spiderwebs can mean two different things which have everything to do with your paint. If they are just swirls in the clearcoat, then you absolutely do not need a respray - a quality detail by a reputable shop will put it right. However, if the webs you're talking about are actually cracks or checks in the paint, the yes, consider a re-spray. If you're paint is that bad, then it's probably been resprayed already! Can you post some high res pics?

To me it sounds like you are in desperation mode, but don't need to be. I'd be shocked if an RRS had cracking paint, so you likely have swirling which was removed (read: covered up) by some Jose Jiminez detail shop that used a product FULL of oils which left your car gleaming as you drove away. Or you yourself bought some low grade wax with said oils. Either way, it looks great until the oils get washed out of the swirls which is usually in the 1st or 2nd wash. You need an abraisive polish to properly remove those swirls.

go here and let your mind explore - http://www.autopia.org - you'll likely find that you are panicking for nothing.

Oh yeah if you do sell it, do like Serb says or if its not raining wait until 1/2 hour before dusk.
I'm not going to sell it. I'm tired of wasting money on cars all the time and I love the RRS so I am going to keep this sucker for a while.

I had to have the hood repainted a couple years ago because of a poorly applied clear bra. So that may be part of it and I suspect it has been repainted in other areas too based on what I have heard form a few different detailers. I bought it used so I don't know for sure.

I must just not be getting the right detail job. I guess I just get frustrated because the black paint it so hard to maintain. I am going to do some research and try to find a quality detail shop out here in Orlando or Atlanta next month and see what they can do.

Thanks a lot for the input!
The repaint of the hood and probable other panels does tell us a lot, and I'm 100% sure this is the cause of your problem. Unfortunately there are more hacks out there than actual good body shops.

A quality detail shop will/should have a paint thickness gauge which electronically measures the thickness of your paint in microns. Have them check each panel for thickness so you can get an accurate idea of what's been repainted. Do a baseline on a panel that wasn't painted and measure all the others against this one. The variation should be minimal. I believe most factory paint jobs go on at about a 5 micron thickness and will vary by 1-2 microns per panel...any resprayed panels will show 9, 10 or even a 12 micron thickness. You can also check your door jambs for tape lines. It will be a thin strip of tape residue where the painter masked off (they will not do the entire jamb so usually they stop just after the rounded edge leading into the jamb). You can also check for excessive orange peel, another good indicator. A good detailer will be able to spot a respray immediately though, as the paint never matches 100% - EVER.

There's just no way a factory sprayed RRS that is at a maximum 4 years old would have have checks and cracks, even if you never waxed it. Today's paints and clearcoats are extremely durable. I walked on my first two RRS' that I saw because they each had a respray on the doors. Bumpers? No problem, but sheetmetal forget about it - who knows the extent of the accident, how much cheese the shop used...no thanks.

Good luck at a reputable detail shop, they'll be able to answer all your questions and if they can't, they aren't any good.
 

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UR, where the heck do you learn all this bro?

Thanks for the advice. The whole "You can also check your door jambs for tape lines" reveals what I suspected about my rear gate. It has been repainted. I don't think it was major damage since the carfax came back clean and it only seems to be the upper portion where the glass is.

I'm restoring my paint, my rear gate is next so i've been studying it, and found the imperfection. Of course no one can see it except me and, of course, you would.

Speaking of paint correction, have you used Jetseal 109 yet?
 

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rafa said:
UR, where the heck do you learn all this bro?

Thanks for the advice. The whole "You can also check your door jambs for tape lines" reveals what I suspected about my rear gate. It has been repainted. I don't think it was major damage since the carfax came back clean and it only seems to be the upper portion where the glass is.

I'm restoring my paint, my rear gate is next so i've been studying it, and found the imperfection. Of course no one can see it except me and, of course, you would.

Speaking of paint correction, have you used Jetseal 109 yet?
Sure no problem...It's been years of reading, researching, spending time with my brother who used to buy project cars and flip them in addition to myself detailing cars for about 7 years. There's actually quite a bit of science behind it and it turned into one of my 'hobbies'. I evaluate cars in parking lots and pick out the ones that have been re-sprayed (lots more than you think!). The rear gate isn't too bad, since it's difficult to tell color differences against another panel unlike a door being repainted which has another door right next to it.

I have not tried Jetseal 109, sounds like a synthetic sealant to me? I've just recently started moving away from carnauba to synthetic since it provides a lot of durability and such ease of application. I'm mostly an old school guy for now using 3M body shop products for polishing purposes but as far as waxes and sealants, I'm open to more modern things.
 

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I was going to have my Arctic Frost resprayed in a pearl white at first but decided against it because it was too much work- that's doing the paint job the right way and not doing a quick once over.

My second option was I was just going to have the Arctic Frost resprayed with a coat of clear that had a blue metallic flake in it so the car looked more baby blue and less green.

However, after being practical once in my life, I decided against it. Main reason being- any future touch up or body work you'd need done, it will be an absolute nightmare to try and get a custom paint job matched or touched up. Keeping things factory is always easier.

If in fact your car was resprayed- you might want to make sure that the current color is as close to the stock color as possible. If not, then you might consider a quick respray.

I'm getting ready to color code just about everything on the car in Arctic Frost and worry that the color will be matched to perfection, since it seems like a tricky color to get right. All I can say is you definitely get what you pay for with a paint job. My buddy who owns a body/paint shop that has done SEMA cars said he would even have to charge me around $5k to repaint it the RIGHT way, and that's basically at cost to him.

One thing I will say- is you'll be surprised what a GOOD detail can do. Take it to a professional and spend a little. I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental with original off-white paint. I thought for sure the car needed to be repainted. A few hundred bucks and several hours later after a detail the 40+ year old paint job looked brand new again.
 
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