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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all - my intake ducts were both leaking a bit of oil joining the inter coolers to the elbow.

Following the workshop manual step by step i replaces and torqued as required. I also replace the gasket from the elbow to the supercharger.

I started the car for the first time and thought all was well in the world but if you wait until 2/3 of the way through you will see I now have a terrible sound.

It’s an 07 4.2 sc vogue se. Any ideas and has anyone had similar before?

https://youtu.be/MZd6KqAN_D8
 

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Are you referring to the whining? That would be the supercharger most likely.
Shouldn’t be making that sound at idle. Have you checked the boost bypass valve actuator (kind of like a wastegate for a turbo)?


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From what I have picked up from the community is you should only hear the supercharger come on during harder acceleration.
The supercharger isn’t always at boost. Apparently, this is supposed to save fuel and keep the supercharger from heat soaking. Got that info from the Ford Raptor group. It uses the same supercharger.


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From what I have picked up from the community is you should only hear the supercharger come on during harder acceleration.
The supercharger isn’t always at boost. Apparently, this is supposed to save fuel and keep the supercharger from heat soaking. Got that info from the Ford Raptor group. It uses the same supercharger.


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What group of raptors is that? The raptor isn't supercharged! Regardless on his rig if you're looking at the front of the car it should be nestled on the left of the blower. It would have to be shut all the way, it's vacuum actuated so maybe you bumped a little something? with it closed it will cause whatever intake charge is entering the blower to compress whereas under normal operation at idle it's open allowing air to recirculated around the intake vs compression. Would def look at that if you were playing in that area, maybe a vac hose popped off it.
 

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My bad. I went back and looked at the article. It was on a Raptor forum. But they were indeed chatting about the Lighting SVT.
Sometimes I speed read a paragraph way too fast and only pick out certain details.


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hummm... I cannot tell if that vac line to the bypass (which you juggle with your finger for a bit in the first video) is crushed. It may make sense to manually open the bypass and see if the noise goes away to test that theory. when manually open if the noise is gone replace those parts and you're good! The only other thing I can think since you mentioned an oil leak near the intercoolers maybe the snout of the blower is losing/lost its oil? The snout running dry would making that tired bearing noise. Check the lvl of oil in the snout. You can do that by popping the screw off the snout (very front of the blower), the oil should be lvl and just barely leaking out of the inspection port once the screw is removed. If there isn't any oil in there that's a problem. You may be able to just refill it, though it will probably leak out again. Repairing a leak at the snout is a bit of a process... you may be able to do it with the blower still in the car, but ideally you pull the blower, remove the snout, replace all the bearings/seals... then copper gasket maker the body of the thing back together... It's splits up into 3 pieces the snout and middle section join to hold oil... those two sections bolt up to the body that house the rotors.

Let us know what you find... hoping for your sake just an issue with the bypass, if the oil has all leaked out of the snout and you're up for making the repair yourself let us know. I've rebuilt dozens of these blowers and can help you :)
 

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My bad. I went back and looked at the article. It was on a Raptor forum. But they were indeed chatting about the Lighting SVT.
Sometimes I speed read a paragraph way too fast and only pick out certain details.


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ah yeah, the lightning is the same. And while we're on the subject I'd like to own a raptor LOL
 

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Thanks brad - how do I manually open it? Do I pull that vacuum line off that you reckon might be crushed?
It should look a little something like this

s-l300.jpg

by pulling that linkage towards the bottom will actuate the internal valve within the blower allowing the charge to recirculate... So while the vehicle is running try moving that rod/linkage to different positions and see if the noise dissipates. As is under no pressure it should remain open... The unit itself is prone to failure too when the internal seals start to fail it can cause the linkage to stick open/closed. The fact that hose seems crushed might imply the bypass unit itself is at fault. Let us know and we'll take it from there
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok thought I’d better update nobody likes a post which is not finished 🙂

So had my mate round who’s a bmw mechanic of 20years. He borrowed a smoke tester and there were two leaks one tiny one from the loose solid plastic pipe I put a video of and then from the pcv it was leaking all out the top of the circle (not loads but a bit. Taped it up to test it was better and he then listened and told me the noise was a knackered alternator... what are the chances
Of everything going wrong as I change one little intake duct. Going to order a denso from Dan Monday I’m off all week so should have a go at fitting doesn’t look too evil and will update... Failing that I’ll look at the above
 

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Ok thought I’d better update nobody likes a post which is not finished 🙂

So had my mate round who’s a bmw mechanic of 20years. He borrowed a smoke tester and there were two leaks one tiny one from the loose solid plastic pipe I put a video of and then from the pcv it was leaking all out the top of the circle (not loads but a bit. Taped it up to test it was better and he then listened and told me the noise was a knackered alternator... what are the chances
Of everything going wrong as I change one little intake duct. Going to order a denso from Dan Monday I’m off all week so should have a go at fitting doesn’t look too evil and will update... Failing that I’ll look at the above
That is great news!
 

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Ok thought I’d better update nobody likes a post which is not finished 🙂

So had my mate round who’s a bmw mechanic of 20years. He borrowed a smoke tester and there were two leaks one tiny one from the loose solid plastic pipe I put a video of and then from the pcv it was leaking all out the top of the circle (not loads but a bit. Taped it up to test it was better and he then listened and told me the noise was a knackered alternator... what are the chances
Of everything going wrong as I change one little intake duct. Going to order a denso from Dan Monday I’m off all week so should have a go at fitting doesn’t look too evil and will update... Failing that I’ll look at the above
I have rebuild this alternator 2 times it’s a basic job dont buy new one waste of money
i saw onnyour video you have good toolset you can start with bearings and connectors and while you there you may replace voltage regulator.
I didnt replace voltage regulator for this reasons i didrebuild the alternator second time
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just to confirm after changing the alt and the pcv (greats fun job the alt) the noise is gone and my ltft at down to 10 and 5 and I thinking that due to the leaking brake booster hose but accidentally got the wrong side through so hopefully can have it good as gold then.

Only spotted the rebuild post after I ordered lol

Cheers for the suggestions
 
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