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Good day all,
Hope everyone is well & safe. I found another P38 as a possible candidate for purchase and welcome all the comments and input from this great community. This is a 2002 Range Rover P38 with 144K Miles on the clock, and it's about 5 hours north from where I live here in South Florida (USA). I'll see if I'm successful in loading pictures of it below for you all to review and provide description from owner and you can help me decide if it is even worth it to drive the 5 hours to take a look?
Owner description: "Very good car, runs and drives with no mechanical issues, cold AC. Clean in/out." About a day later owner added " Just found out the cooling fan is not working, cause it's slightly overheating."
I have not seen this car in person because it's a 5 hour drive (one way) 10 hours total. I got a quote from an auto transport company that would charge $500.00 to pick-up vehicle and deliver to my home. The owner is asking for $2,000.00 dollars.
My questions to this community are as follows: Is it worth taking a look? What is the car worth based on the description/condition?
Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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Offer $1500 and save that Rover :)

To expand, it’s a nice white rover, and virtually all issues can be solved relatively quickly inexpensively.

It’s a nice looking facelift model, with an arm rest that need work.

The cooling system will already be top of the list to over haul anyways, so if you can get it for $2000 shipped, I’d pull the trigger.
 

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Body on this one looks pretty good. I don't know how the current owner managed to mangle that armrest, but the thing looks pretty filthy. You'll certainly have to buy a second hand one. However, rest of the leather looks relatively good from the pictures.

For an '02, not sure why the front turn signals are of the amber kind. Should be clear/partly amber kind to be correct. You might want to get a hold of the VIN#, and do a check.

Don't know what the current owner means by slight overheating. That concerns me a lot. If what the owner means is an erratic movement of the temperature gauge, then the problem is probably relatively minor and can be an easy fix. Typically, this type of temperature gyration is due to either 1) slow responding thermostat 2) low flow due to tired water pump 3) slightly clogged radiator or 4) non-responding fan clutch. If the owner means a straight into red zone kind of overheating either right away or after a bit of driving around, then I would walk away or do more pre-inspection prior to purchase.

I agree with a counter of $1,500. Maybe start around $1,250?
 

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You can't really tell a lot from the pictures other than the front indicators have been changed (rears are correct) and the front grille has been painted but the bottom strip has not been done in body colour as it should be. Not sure what he means by 'slightly overheating' either, it's either overheating or it's just running a bit hot and that would concern me too. You don't want to be getting into replacing head gaskets (or worse) as soon as you get it.

+1 on getting hold of the VIN number to check the age. Even though it is 5 hours away I will only ever buy a car without seeing it if I am buying one very cheap that needs work so I can decide what needs doing once I've got it rather than what the seller tells me it needs.
 
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Offer $1500 and save that Rover :)

To expand, it’s a nice white rover, and virtually all issues can be solved relatively quickly inexpensively.

It’s a nice looking facelift model, with an arm rest that need work.

The cooling system will already be top of the list to over haul anyways, so if you can get it for $2000 shipped, I’d pull the trigger.
Appreciate your input Ice.
 

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Body on this one looks pretty good. I don't know how the current owner managed to mangle that armrest, but the thing looks pretty filthy. You'll certainly have to buy a second hand one. However, rest of the leather looks relatively good from the pictures.

For an '02, not sure why the front turn signals are of the amber kind. Should be clear/partly amber kind to be correct. You might want to get a hold of the VIN#, and do a check.

Don't know what the current owner means by slight overheating. That concerns me a lot. If what the owner means is an erratic movement of the temperature gauge, then the problem is probably relatively minor and can be an easy fix. Typically, this type of temperature gyration is due to either 1) slow responding thermostat 2) low flow due to tired water pump 3) slightly clogged radiator or 4) non-responding fan clutch. If the owner means a straight into red zone kind of overheating either right away or after a bit of driving around, then I would walk away or do more pre-inspection prior to purchase.

I agree with a counter of $1,500. Maybe start around $1,250?
Thank you TheoR for your input and advice.
 

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You can't really tell a lot from the pictures other than the front indicators have been changed (rears are correct) and the front grille has been painted but the bottom strip has not been done in body colour as it should be. Not sure what he means by 'slightly overheating' either, it's either overheating or it's just running a bit hot and that would concern me too. You don't want to be getting into replacing head gaskets (or worse) as soon as you get it.

+1 on getting hold of the VIN number to check the age. Even though it is 5 hours away I will only ever buy a car without seeing it if I am buying one very cheap that needs work so I can decide what needs doing once I've got it rather than what the seller tells me it needs.
Hello Richard, thank you for your advice as always. I did get the VIN# and ran a free vin check here in the state of Florida and it came back with year make of 2002, and no accidents. I don't mind taking the 5 hour drive to check it out further, but wanted to get your advice if it would be worth the drive. I would not buy it sight unseen. I'd like to check for rust underneath, and you mentioning that the front indicators have been changed and grill painted, concerns me that it make have been in a crash and never reported? It will not show up on a Vin check if never reported.
The owner says about the "slightly heating" that it can be driven for 20 to 30 minutes before it begins to overheat", but that the engine is fine.
I've never done a head gasket replacement, and as you say, I don't want to start with that problem or worse. I don't have the facility or budget to replace the engine. Owner wants to know what would be my offer, but I first wanted to run the Vin and check with you all here before I decide how much to offer. I don't want to make the drive if the owner is not flexible on the price and waste my time. That's all the information I have for now. Thanks again.
 

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Here is my hunch on overheating after 20 to 30 minutes of driving. Typically, an engine takes a bit of driving so that the cooling system starts to do its job as the engine is just warming up and relatively cool initially. So, if the cooling system is doing that, I would guess that either the thermostat or the radiator is not functioning properly. From my hunch, it's a clogged radiator. A guess, obviously.

The question you need to consider is why would a radiator be clogged if it is indeed the case. Typically, what happens is a head gasket leak or a valley gasket seal starts to leak coolant, and the owner takes the easiest and the cheapest solution, which is to use a gasket sealant, such as K-seal to plug up the leak. This process typically causes the coolant system to clog up. The radiator is typically the first to go.

So, the strategy I would take is to inquire if the current owner used such gasket sealant chemicals in the car. I would approach by saying that all the symptoms the owner describes as a cooling issue point toward the use of such chemicals. The key would be to find the source of the initial leak. It might be as simple as leaky hoses or an intake manifold heater, which is very common on P38s. The source could also be the head gasket itself. If it was the head gasket that was leaking, then you'll have to service it sooner rather than later.
 

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Here is my hunch on overheating after 20 to 30 minutes of driving. Typically, an engine takes a bit of driving so that the cooling system starts to do its job as the engine is just warming up and relatively cool initially. So, if the cooling system is doing that, I would guess that either the thermostat or the radiator is not functioning properly. From my hunch, it's a clogged radiator. A guess, obviously.

The question you need to consider is why would a radiator be clogged if it is indeed the case. Typically, what happens is a head gasket leak or a valley gasket seal starts to leak coolant, and the owner takes the easiest and the cheapest solution, which is to use a gasket sealant, such as K-seal to plug up the leak. This process typically causes the coolant system to clog up. The radiator is typically the first to go.

So, the strategy I would take is to inquire if the current owner used such gasket sealant chemicals in the car. I would approach by saying that all the symptoms the owner describes as a cooling issue point toward the use of such chemicals. The key would be to find the source of the initial leak. It might be as simple as leaky hoses or an intake manifold heater, which is very common on P38s. The source could also be the head gasket itself. If it was the head gasket that was leaking, then you'll have to service it sooner rather than later.
TheoR- Thanks again for your input. I'll bring your point up to the owner and see how they respond.
 

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Here is my hunch on overheating after 20 to 30 minutes of driving. Typically, an engine takes a bit of driving so that the cooling system starts to do its job as the engine is just warming up and relatively cool initially. So, if the cooling system is doing that, I would guess that either the thermostat or the radiator is not functioning properly. From my hunch, it's a clogged radiator. A guess, obviously.

The question you need to consider is why would a radiator be clogged if it is indeed the case. Typically, what happens is a head gasket leak or a valley gasket seal starts to leak coolant, and the owner takes the easiest and the cheapest solution, which is to use a gasket sealant, such as K-seal to plug up the leak. This process typically causes the coolant system to clog up. The radiator is typically the first to go.

So, the strategy I would take is to inquire if the current owner used such gasket sealant chemicals in the car. I would approach by saying that all the symptoms the owner describes as a cooling issue point toward the use of such chemicals. The key would be to find the source of the initial leak. It might be as simple as leaky hoses or an intake manifold heater, which is very common on P38s. The source could also be the head gasket itself. If it was the head gasket that was leaking, then you'll have to service it sooner rather than later.
Here is my hunch on overheating after 20 to 30 minutes of driving. Typically, an engine takes a bit of driving so that the cooling system starts to do its job as the engine is just warming up and relatively cool initially. So, if the cooling system is doing that, I would guess that either the thermostat or the radiator is not functioning properly. From my hunch, it's a clogged radiator. A guess, obviously.

The question you need to consider is why would a radiator be clogged if it is indeed the case. Typically, what happens is a head gasket leak or a valley gasket seal starts to leak coolant, and the owner takes the easiest and the cheapest solution, which is to use a gasket sealant, such as K-seal to plug up the leak. This process typically causes the coolant system to clog up. The radiator is typically the first to go.

So, the strategy I would take is to inquire if the current owner used such gasket sealant chemicals in the car. I would approach by saying that all the symptoms the owner describes as a cooling issue point toward the use of such chemicals. The key would be to find the source of the initial leak. It might be as simple as leaky hoses or an intake manifold heater, which is very common on P38s. The source could also be the head gasket itself. If it was the head gasket that was leaking, then you'll have to service it sooner rather than later.
There's been a twist to this scenario. Owner had sent me a picture of the title so I could pull the Vin number from it and check the vin, etc. I noticed that the name on the title was not the same name of the person I've been discussing the possible purchase, etc. Turns out this current "owner" bought the vehicle not too long ago and says he did not register it (Title name change)because he found that it was overheating. I asked if he can contact him and ask if gasket sealant chemicals were used on the vehicle and he said he could not. I don't think I'm going to look further into this vehicle because I have a feeling it's a head gasket issue or worse and this current owner was looking to dump the vehicle. Thank you TheoR and the rest who contributed their advice, but it appears that this is another one that I'll need to pass on.
 

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Best way, he's bought it and either didn't know it was overheating or did and figured he could fix it with a bottle of sealer. Now he's found he can't he's trying to pass it on to someone else. It might just need a radiator and/or water pump and it would be worth a gamble at $500 but not any more.
 
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Best way, he's bought it and either didn't know it was overheating or did and figured he could fix it with a bottle of sealer. Now he's found he can't he's trying to pass it on to someone else. It might just need a radiator and/or water pump and it would be worth a gamble at $500 but not any more.
Richard, thanks again for your advice. I'll take it under consideration being that I'd have to drive 10 hours (round trip) plus the $500 to ship it back home.
 
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