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Discussion Starter #1
So I have read all the posts on what others have done and I'm still trying to figure out whats going on with mine.

Worked fine all last year and was parked for the winter. Its possible that something might have froze. When I fired it up for the first time this year and went for a drive it overheated. Was boiling in the expansion tank. So as of now I have had the rad inspected and reclamped but said it was good. Installed new thermo and filled according to RAVE. Still overheats. Top rad hose gets firm when thermo opens and thats when the gauge goes to the red.

My next step is to try to burp once again and try an expansion cap. I should also mention that I snapped the nipple for the burp hose and have glued it but its still leaking...(not sure if this will cause and overheat) and I have no heat

any help that you can direct my way would be greatly app'd as I'm lost as to what to do next

TIA

Tie
 

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If you have no Heat from the Heater it sounds to me as though you may still have a Airlock in the System, try bleeding the system again as you say may help.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so disconnect bleeder hose from rad and they say blow it out...then reattach. How about just leaving it off for a few cycles of heating/cooling?

Also, the dual fans in the front of rads do NOT turn on at any time...they should right??
 

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Col said:
If you have no Heat from the Heater it sounds to me as though you may still have a Airlock in the System, try bleeding the system again as you say may help.

Cheers

Agreed. The broken nipple that leaks sounds like a problem also. Probably letting out pressure and allowing more air to get in the system.
 

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"Also, the dual fans in the front of rads do NOT turn on at any time...they should right??"

No, they should not turn on unless the whole engine is getting too hot.

The system needs pressure, as water boils at a higher temp when under pressure and if the system is open it will make steam which in turn will act like air in the system.

I would get a new rad and mind the nipple this time.

Sid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks SID, I had the rad at a shop and he said it was okay. He said he had to reclamp it because it expanded a bit due to being hot. Is it still possible something in there is buggered?

The dam nipple thing really pisses me off and as soon as I snapped it off I remembered somebody on here saying be careful not to snap it off... :oops: It was overheating before I broke it however.

I still think it has something to do with being frozen. It worked fine last year and then the first time out, overheats. What could of froze during the winter and got messed up?
 

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P38 water pumps never seem to last more than 80-100K miles. If you are approaching this and have the radiator out, I would replace it and eliminate this as a cause of problems. You can replace it with the radiator in but it easier with it out. As sensitive as this engine is to overheating, I think its a good idea to replace the water pump at 80K even when you aren't having problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there a way to test the water pump?

Second, there are 2 nipples on the expansion tank cap, the one closest to the firewall is the rad return (burp) line and the other is just a overflow? The attached hose just drains down? I just figured out that the PO must of broke that one off too??
 

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I broke that "nipple" as well. it was on the first leg of a decent length trip last summer. tried a few different bonding agents that helped me limp through the trip, but made me worry the entire time. it was never really right. So I replaces the rad with an all metal oem... So far it runs great, no 14 hours of driving to test it yet, but i have put it through some local 2 hour trips, so i am calling it good. I say replace it if you haven't already.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
need someone to make an expert guess!

Should i go with new rad or new waterpump to fix my overheating?

Thermo, done Expansion cap, done next?
 

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I would start with the cheapest first, rather than throw money at it, especially if you can afford to let it sit while you work on it, meaning you have a spare vehicle. So try to bleed it a few more times first. The water pump could have gone, but you would hear it or see the leak. The radiator shouldn't be a problem if it was fine before, its not something to suddenly fail. You could potentially have slipped a liner, blown a head gasket, or cracked your block, but I seriously doubt that. Keep a scanner plugged in when operating the vehicle though, make sure the temp doesn't get above 220F or you'll fry it at 240F. If your gauge is in the red and its reading 210F or below, you might have another problem. however, based on your description, it just sounds like a bleeding issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I played with a bit today and still cant come up with any clues.

Checked some hoses for blockage and it all looked fine. The only weird thing it that the lower hose coming out of the thermostat does not get as hot...almost like its not opening? Fluid gets hots, then starts boiling in expansion cap and overflowing lots. Can hear some goofy noises in the cabin most likely from the heater core...

Dont know where to start...guess ill pull the rad and throw a water pump in it but its not leaking or losing fluid.
 

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With the engine running do you see water squirting back into the expansion tank from the pipe from the little pipe from the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well before i broke that nipple off...it appeared to operate correctly and allow coolant to move back and forth
Now i have that blocked off but coolant does come out of there at a good rate...

overheated when that nipple was on as well... pretty sure im going to have to get new rad but i dont think that is the problem
 
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