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RRC95,P38/95,P38/01/30TH/L322HSE06
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One of the best colors out there; very nice.

I am in the process of converting my R-12 system and leaking seals and valves are quite common with switching to R-134, I haven't done it yet but will be replacing my compressor to fix the valve issue too.

There's a bunch of very knowledgeable people on this site so throw all your questions at the Classics forum and you are likely to get some great support.

Rob
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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658 Posts
The initial weirdness was the computer sorting out the positioning of the new IACV, it shouldn't do that again. The debris was almost certainly disintigrating gasket, and the new one appears longer because the new one is in the default fully extended state, while the old one is at some halfway point in it's extension. That looks like ae well behaving idle to me, particularly when cold. When cold it usually idles around 800-900, and when revved, slowly drops back to settle down into the desired idle range.
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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658 Posts
thanks I was able to find a wix 91221SS on eBay earlier. says it fits the 3.9... hopefully it does
Looks correct, although $18 is way steep for the entry level Wix filter. Even the high perforamnce Wix XP filters are usually well under $15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
OK so EFI light came back on today, almost stalled a few times at some red lights when it was really stop and go. not sure if it is the braking or the transmission shifting or a combination at this point. is there a diagram or list of specific vacuum lines to check for for leaks?
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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658 Posts
Did it stall as you were coming to a stop, or after you had already stopped and were sitting idling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
it didn't actually stall, but the idle got so low that the battery light flashed and it may have even died for a millisecond. it's quite hard to remember since it was happening so fast, but I will say it was quickly braking to avoid hitting someone in front of me
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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658 Posts
It's possible the speed transducer isn't working. The '89 has a mechanical speedo, with a spinning cable driven by the transfer case running along the frame rail to a speed transducer, which records vehicle speed and sends it to the EFI computer, before the cable continues on to the back of the speedometer in the dash. If the transducer doesn't tell the computer that the vehicle is stopping, as the RPM's drop with road speed, it can drop too far before the computer realizes you are below idle speed and it takes over to bring the idle back up. Rovergauge can tell you if the transducer is working or not, but I'm not sure of another way to tell. I'm not pistive on this, as my first suspect would be the IACV, but you just replaced it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I was just under the hood for about an hour just inspecting hoses and mucking around... couple things


this was loose. I'm assuming it controls idle speed but I tightened it just enough for it to be not be loose.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Grille Automotive lighting


I noticed this hanging friend too, not sure if it's related...

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Gas Automotive exterior
Automotive tire Gas Electric blue Metal Automotive wheel system


also someone did a nice janky tape job on this vacuum hose. it was actually coming apart behind the black tape:

Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Rim Automotive fuel system Automotive wheel system
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Gas Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
also this hose with the red arrow... I think it goes to the brake booster?

it was a bit loose, slightly loose just kinda "on" without being fastened. I threw a hose clamp on and I'm wondering if that might help with some possible vacuum leak. it is one of the hoses that I sprayed with starter fluid the other day and didn't really get a change in idle... but maybe something may change...
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Bicycle tire Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
ONE more thing that I just thought of, sometimes when I go from brake to gas at a red light, I feel like there's a bit of delay when I first put my foot on the gas, before it get's going.

sorry for the piecemeal
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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So lets go through those photos. The first is the throttle cable (good for it not to be loose), it actually doesn't control the idle, as the butterfly is supposed to be fully closed at idle and air into the engine is controlled through the little bypass port that is regulated by the IACV. That dangling pair of broken wires very likely come from the oil level sensor on the side of the sump, they break off easily and the sensor is unfortunately no longer available. It's not a huge concern, as long as you check your oil level regularly (like once a month or so) you shouldn't have any worries. I would definitely replace any suspicious vacuum hoses, a big spool of vacuum hose is cheap, and leaks can be quite an annoyance. In terms of a delay, as in you push the pedal and there's a dead spot before anything happens, or you push the pedal and a second later the revs start to rise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
thanks lance. feels like a dead spot.

oil sensor: makes sense. the oil level light blinks a few times when the car is first running. then it goes off. I check the level every other day. also changing the oil/filter tomorrow or Friday, tossing some of that ceratec in there too (y).

I keep fiddling with the idea of changing the transmission fluid/filter myself. I've seen quite a few videos online (thanks Edd china) and it seems very straight forward, unless there's some type of stripped bolt or unforeseen issue. is it necessary to do it on a lift? I wonder how much of a pain getting off that cross member will be. might just bring it to the shop to have that done
 

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1985 RRC 3.5, LT230, LT77. 1996 Disco1, 4.0
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Been using Mahle (OC 261 for my '85 3.5) oil filters for some years, no issues. Get them through RoversNorth. Folks there are very knowledgeable. Well below that $18 price....
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Lance you may be on to something with the speed transducer. I just drove it again and one thing I need to do is when I approach stops I need to really take my time sort of rolling and allowing the engine to downshift. feels like it really takes a long time. so I guess that really makes sense when I don't have the ability to baby it and hit the brakes more suddenly, it wants to die since it's still in 2nd or even 3rd
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
so since the last post- the EFI light is back on, however

there haven't been any close calls with stalling. possible the engine was still learning the new IAC since that was the first drive I really did with it. I've read you need to do some highway, some stop and go, etc so it calibrates

the only thing that really feels kinda weird still is when I'm coming to a stop the rev's do seem quite high even with my foot off of the gas.

the transmission fluid and filter still need to be changed. there's some semi hard shifting into second when I'm driving slower
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Does it stay high at a stop, or just seem high when you come to a stop and then it settles out over a few seconds to normal idle? Mine does that occasionally, every now and then when I come to a stop, it's at around 1200-1300rpm, and then over the next ~5 seconds it drops dow to ~750. I've watched the rovergauge resonse when it happens, it just adjusts the IACV position until it reaches the target value, I've never been to concerned. It may be a slightly sticky/dirty butterfly, so maybe some air is sneaking though the throttle body at idle since the butterfly occasionally gets stuck a tiny fraction of the way open (thinking about it now, I'm going to go check if mine is dirty).


Also Valvoline MaxLife has been good ATF for me so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
hey, yes. that sounds about what I have going on. I did clean the butterfly last week however. not with a toothbrush however, didn't want to risk any scratching in there. just carb cleaner and shop towel

also my warmed up idle in D is 500-600, not quite 750. hmm....
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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That's still in the range, unless it's behaving funny or stumbling, it's nothing to lose sleep over.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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That's still in the range, unless it's behaving funny or stumbling, it's nothing to lose sleep over.
What about adjusting the TPS (throttle position sensor) up a bit to 750 to see if that overcomes the downshift stalling?
 
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