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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hello everyone - just picked up an '89 RRC. 121K miles... loving it so far... I've put around 70 miles on it since acquiring it last week and just a few things I've noticed...

transmission was (and still slightly is) a bit jerky when downshifting and going from D to R back to D for parallel parking. I noticed the tranny fluid is a bit brown and was slightly low, so I grabbed some fluid from auto zone and popped about half a quart in, that helped a bit. although it's definitely on my list to change the fluid / filter asap.

I've got an EFI light.... the idle is a little sketchy at red lights when it's warm, and when it's cold on start up. when I give the engine a little rev it doesn't always come right back down to the idle speed immediately. (I've disconnected the battery to reset it, it has reappeared)

warm idle at a stop light is about 400-600.

if I put the car in N and pump the brakes, the idle fluctuates slightly.

I've ordered a new IAC from Rimmer and will be installing that in a few days.

air filter is pretty new, I just cleaned out the carbon I could see in the throttle body. the hose between the MAF and the throttle body seems fine as well. sprayed around the vacuum hoses with starter fluid to see if there was a vacuum leak and it seemed alright there.

I had a new exhaust installed, I haven't checked the O2 sensors however.

P.S the R134A doesn't hold freon, the valve at the back is apparently busted. maybe that's messing with the system?

edit: extra question

also I've done a bunch of searches on this but haven't really seen any definitive answers. in my Mercedes (250K~ miles) I'm running high mileage liqui moli (10w 40) anti friction oil. it's really done wonders for that engine... is anyone running this in the rovers? I've seen the rave manual and what people usually put into the high mileage RRC's and I haven't found many people going the LM route.... wasn't sure if there was a particular reason that I've missed

here she is:
296233
 

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1991 2 door, 3.9l 5 speed, Aspen Silver
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One of the best colors out there; very nice.

I am in the process of converting my R-12 system and leaking seals and valves are quite common with switching to R-134, I haven't done it yet but will be replacing my compressor to fix the valve issue too.

There's a bunch of very knowledgeable people on this site so throw all your questions at the Classics forum and you are likely to get some great support.

Rob
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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Welcome to the club. Looks very tidy!

I've got a diesel, so there will be others eminently more qualified to advise on EFI issues, but, the jerkiness (if not the transmission) could be the UJs need greasing (or replacing if they're knackered). Quick and easy job to grease them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
UJ's: U Joints I'm assuming eh?

thank you very much. hoping that might be it.

the underside of the car is actually pretty decent looking. couple small rust holes in the rear (near the tool roll / gas input) and passenger side floor boards that I'll patch up with miracle paint and fiberglass cloth
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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Sorry, yes, the Universal Joints. There's one either end of each prop shaft, and there's also a grease nipple on the prop itself for the slider. I do mine without jacking the car up, just roll under with the grease gun now and then.

This video is good as an intro to the job, if you're not familiar:

Personally I'm sceptical at his claim I should be greasing things weekly. I did mine about 2 months ago, and they don't want to accept any more grease yet. I've covered around 800 miles since then.

If you plan to do bits yourself, Trailerfitter's Toolbox and Britannica Restorations are great YouTube channels to start with if you're not overly familiar with old Land Rovers. Most stuff for early discoveries is transferable to RRCs too.
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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Good luck! I've found mine a pleasure to work on compared to other stuff I've owned. Hope you do too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thank you. so far so good, much easier to get underneath than my '73 450SL, that's for sure
 

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Range Rover Classic, 1988, 1992 200TDI engine
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We've got a 1975 Alfa 105, just jacking it up gives me serious anxiety!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
also I've done a bunch of searches on this but haven't really seen any definitive answers. in my Mercedes (250K~ miles) I'm running high mileage liqui moli (10w 40) anti friction oil. it's really done wonders for that engine... is anyone running this in the rovers? I've seen the rave manual and what people usually put into the high mileage RRC's and I haven't found many people going the LM route.... wasn't sure if there was a particular reason that I've missed
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Hopefully that IACV should sort your idle issue, they get sticky/slow and result in a wonky idle. In terms of liquimoly, I put a bottle of ceratec in all my old cars and it definitely helps, but in terms of oil I use Mobile 1 10w-40 High mileage and a Purolator or Wix filter. Transmission jerks can definitely be low fluid, it can be a bit hard to actually determine the level, so make sure to follow the rave manual procedure (I believe it's warm idle in neutral).

In terms of the EFI light, figuring that out on an '89 can be a bit of a pain. The Lucas 14CU does not have diagnostic capability, unlike the 14CUX efi computer which came out in 1990. They are directly interchangeable, plug and play. With the 14CUX you can use RoverGauge, which is an open source serial interface that communicates with the 14CUX, and allows you to see real time engine data as well as trouble codes. It's incredibly useful, and not hard to use. all it requries is a windows computer and a special usb/serial cable that connectes to the white 5 pin plug taht's located under your passenger seat (yes the diagnostic plug is there even though the 14CU has no diagnostics, they were planning for it ahead of time in the wiring loom and the 14CU was just a stopgap computer until the 14CUX was ready).

Here's the cable:


And here's the link to the RoverGauge Github repo:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so much great info there. thanks Lance. on my transmission dipstick it has instructions for cold engine, idling in neutral. I'm assuming I should go with their instructions here right? or RAVE may know better? for the ECU upgrade... the laptop acts as the new ECU? I just unplug the current 14CU, use that adapter cable and plug in a windows machine and run that website?
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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I always thought it was odd that the manual and the dipstick disagreed on the warm or cold idle, I've checked at both and it does not seem to vary significantly, however measuring in general is a bit tricky because it tends to splash on the dipstick.

So the 14CU/14CUX EFI computer is a black box that lives under the passenger seat, and looks like this:
Gadget Publication Electronics accessory Metal Composite material


The computer that came in the 1989 (like mine as well) was model 14CU, which does not have any diagnostic capability (when a problem arises, it turns on that EFI light, but there are no associated trouble codes or other information to help you diagnose). The 1990 and onward cars have the 14CUX computer, nearly identical, but with better software. the 14CU in your 1989 can be swapped with any 14CUX (just one big 40 pin connector, disconnect battery and then plug and play), a number of which can be found on ebay.

If you choose to replace the EFI computer with a 14CUX, you can then use a laptop and that special cable to plug into the car and get all kinds of diagnostic data, as well as the trouble codes, which will tell you exactly what's causing the EFI light to go on. The laptop program (RoverGauge) looks like this.

Photograph Product Font Clock Line
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks I was able to find a wix 91221SS on eBay earlier. says it fits the 3.9... hopefully it does
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok so very interesting, I changed the IAC and as soon as I reconnected the battery and turned it over, the idle was struggling for about 5 seconds, then it shot up to about 2000 for about 5 seconds, and then came down to 900-1000 and settled there.

I took some pictures and video of the new motor, old motor, inside of the IAC... I'll post when I'm at a computer. one very noticeable thing is the newer IAC is longer than the one that was in there. also when I pulled the old one off, a bunch of debris fell. I don't see an old gasket, guessing it was that.
 
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