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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I've had an issue with the left light before. Changed the ignitor and it was fine for months. Now recently changed bulbs after original bulb in right side (so I thought) failed....

Worked fine for a bit, then right side failed again. Now, process of elimination says 'it's the ballast'! Ok, I accept that but I swapped the (new) bulbs to check, worked fine briefly, now right side failes to illuminate completely, and just for good measure, the left side only comes on for about a minute!!!. Well that was a fun journey home on foglamps and high beams....8-0=

Questions:

1) Can failing ballast 'damage' the bulbs so they will fail in the other side if you swap them over?

2) I'm running out of things to swap, is this a lighting control module issue?

Thanks guys,

D2
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone have any ideas?

D2
 

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I could see the ballast causing a bulb to fail, but it probably wouldn't happen that quickly.

Light Check Module has nothing to do with it.

What brand bulb did you install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply Dave. This time I bought el-cheapo bulbs as I didn't want to risk $150 $tealer bought bulbs if the bulbs weren't the issue. This has been building for a while, while hap-hazard ignitions of the right side bulb, then total failure. I've replaced the ignitor, and all was well for a while but now it has built again to the point of failure; I'm assuming there is no one component that controls both sides, and that the bulb/ ignitor /ballast set up s independent to both sides. If that is the case, then I can only assume that the 'dodgy' ballast has damaged the bulbs. I've now swapped the OEM bulbs back in, and the RHS still won't light. LHS lights but not had it on long enough to tell if it will fail again.

I'll try fitting replacement ballast....

D2
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so bulbs are not the issue. I replaced the ballast on the right side head light (so at least it turns on now, which it didn't with old ballast) but the symptoms remain. The bulb will initially ignite but after a short time (varies but always less than 5 mins) there's a sort of 'pulse' or flash of the light and it goes out. Turning the lights off/on again produces the same result, i.e. re-ignition and then failure. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or static. Different bulbs don't alter symptoms. So now it's had new bulbs, new ignitor, new ballast, and new bulbs again.. Do I have another faulty ignitor, or what? I'm running out of things to swap out.... AllComms just says ' ignition voltage <7.5V ' on both lights....

any ideas guys?
Thanks,


D2
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right. I've now swapped bulbs side to side, ballasts side to side and replaced ignitor. Problem STILL stays on passenger side. lights up for about five minutes, then flickers, then goes out..

Anyone, what else is left to replace?. It's like something is getting hot then 'thermally cutting out'....

How do I even begin to diagnose this?

Thanks guys,

D2
 

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Try swapping the whole headlamps side to side, they won't fit, but will plug in fine, there have been issues with the internal wiring in the housings, but I would make sure it isn't something in the harness(vehicle side) first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Try swapping the whole headlamps side to side, they won't fit, but will plug in fine, there have been issues with the internal wiring in the housings, but I would make sure it isn't something in the harness(vehicle side) first.
OK, Thanks Dave, I'll try that...two more broken headlamp wiper covers here we come!! :crybaby2:

D2

p.s. I also found that if I filed the two clear plastic 'tabs' off the edge of the indicator housing on the very edge where it meets the headlamp glass I get a much better fit and cleaner look...
 

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Quite a saga! I am trying to follow to get where you are presently. It sounds like you have:

Original left ballast, replacement right ballast, and the same bulbs that were being swapped around from the first replacement. Is this correct?

My first question is, where did you get the replacement right ballast...new or used?

If you are getting ignition of the bulbs, then I would not suspect the igniters. There is a separate ground wire for each headlight. It sounds like it would be worth tracking down the right side ground to make sure it is good. Actually remove the wire from the stud, clean, and reinstall.
 

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This time I bought el-cheapo bulbs...D2
That can really complicate things.
When you say el-cheapo, were they a name brand? Sylvania? Or were they a no-name off of Ebay?

You can get good quality ones at much better prices than the dealership. Osram or Sylvania (authentic, not counterfeit knock-offs) can be found for relatively decent prices.
Cheaper knock-offs could go out in a few months, maybe less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That can really complicate things.
When you say el-cheapo, were they a name brand? Sylvania? Or were they a no-name off of Ebay?
I hear ya, and normally I would agree, but I've run 8 different bulbs through that light (right) and all of them behave the same way, even the OEM ones, and OEM bulbs out of my A8. It is NOT a bulb issue, as all of the bulbs that failed in the right hand light function correctly when moved into the left hand light.
 

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That will take some ring-out of the circuits then. Hopefully not too hard to find. You know the dealership drill, replace the whole assembly! And you know what THAT cost!
Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That will take some ring-out of the circuits then. Hopefully not too hard to find. You know the dealership drill, replace the whole assembly! And you know what THAT cost!
Best of luck.
Actually I'm lucky with my dealer, very savvy and honest, not your usual $tealer... Having had my transmission fail safe issues diagnosed as 'it needs a new transmission' by a local import 'specialist' the local dealer actually spent time and had the skill to diagnose the issue, and correctly identified the dreaded transfer case motor potentiometer as the issue. Still an expensive part, yes, but a 20 minute self fix. I may yet buy another hour of their shop time (the dealer, Pieler Land Rover/Jaguar in Webster, NY) to have them diagnose the light. For the gear box, I booked it in for one hour of shop time to diagnose it, and two guys and three hours later, I was charged $89! - one hours labour cost.

D2
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update from earlier in the week.removed the right side light, unplugged the left side light, plugged right side light into left side wires, turn lights on. Lamp illuminated with no trouble for 30 mins. switch off and repeat, same result. Unplugged and return right side light to original side, refit and plug back in, fails after five minutes. Can't see a separate ground wire, all ground points behind e-box look and feel secure. Refit and reconnect all, left
side performs correctly, right side fails after ten, then five minutes.

I didn't remove and swap left side light to right side wires.

Now what? :confused:

D2
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dave, any more thoughts? Anyone?

D2
 

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The ground is the one right there behind the E-box, but I don't see that causing it.

It would seem that the LCM is powering it down, which it will do if it 'detects' a short, or over current situation.

The only way I can think of to test between internal to the LCM and something in the harness is to swap the power feed to the individual headlights at the LCM. After looking at the wiring diagram, let me double check a couple things as there is some conflicting information, and I have never had to go through this circuit in this much detail.

One other thing to check before re-pinning the LCM though, if you have the high beams switched on (on not flash to pass) when the low beam goes out, does the high beam as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you very much Dave. pretty sure the halogen high beam stays on even when the Xenon lamp has failed. I will check again and confirm, but I think that's what I've been driving with. Will check and revert. I can't find the wiring diagram. Is it in RAVE?

Thanks,

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dave, can confirm that the right hand high beam (halogen) lamp functions correctly after the right hand xenon bulb has failed. Works on 'push stalk forward' high beam just fine. Left light all behaving correctly.

Found the wiring schematics after looking some more in RAVE....

RAVE says that disconnecting the LCM requires a test-book reset, is that correct?

Spoke to my dealer today, very helpful, he said to try the left hand light in the right hand light 'plugs' as that is one test that I could do without them doing it on my dime on his time. The other tests I've done are things he said they'd try.

Paul
 

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With the RH light not failing when plugged into the LH plug, it should be safe to assume that the LH light will fail when plugged into the RH harness, if not then things are getting very strange.

What I am thinking here is that a MOSFET in the LCM is either failing, or cutting power(which would be normal under a short or over current situation) The way to check this would be to swap the power feeds at the LCM from RH to LH, to check to see if there is something in the harness(where the RH would still fail) or internal to the LCM(which should swap failure to the LH) Based on the wiring diagram and Description & Operation the power feeds for the Dipped Beams as two specific wires, but on that diagram it shows them going to 55W bulbs, but the HID lights should be 35W, which the diagram shows as the Main beams. This is what I would like to double check before offering advice on swapping wires.

As to disconnecting, no, it will be fine, worst case would be erroneous messages for a day or two until it fully resets itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got it, thanks Dave. If I read your message correctly, I'll await an update from you, although I appreciate you're very busy and help out many people... I'll swap the left light onto right hand wires if I get an opportunity to, to establish that situation..

Thank you,

D2
 
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