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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, first off:
1999 range rover hse with the Bosch engine.

I am going to give a short timeline so bear with me.
Over the past month my cranking has gotten a little bit weaker and weaker so I tested the alternator when the truck was running a it was putting out about 14.5 volts or so.

Two weeks ago I went to a meeting and when I came out there was no fire. So I put my good battery charger on it that night and the next morning it fired up. Got done with work and picked up a new battery. A Napa commercial with 910 cc in case that matters.

I got in my truck this past Monday morning and was on the way to work and stop d at a traffic light and a gearbox fault popped up followed by a traction failure message. The next couple miles the AC went out and the radio turned off. I parked the truck in my office yard in case it wouldn't crank when I was done for the day. Got done that day and sure enough, wouldn't start and just the gearbox fault remained.

I tried to check my battery with a deep cycle tester and it said I needed to charge the battery. So I charged it for the night and checked it this morning and it tested good.

Now my truck turns over but will not crank like it isn't getting fuel and the gearbox fault is still around. The electrical tests that are stickies require you to have your truck cranked and running at around 2k rpms and I can't get it running.

I put 12 volts to all the relays and all of the relays test fine and all the fuses test good with a test light. I am baffled as to what would keep the truck from getting fuel and tripping a gearbox issue too. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
 

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It sounds very much like your alternator going out.

Have you ever replaced or rebuilt your alternator in the past? If not, it's probably time for either a rebuild or a replacement anyways.

FYI, here in the US, it's very likely that you can find a alternator rebuild shop that can replace the internals as good as new for less than 100 bucks.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A bad alternator even though it was pulling 14.5 volts when it was running? Would that keep it from cranking now?

And to answer your question I have not personally replaced nor rebuilt the alternator in the past 4 years since I have owned it.
 

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Yes, it can still be your alternator because the alternator might be cutting off on an intermittent basis. Your new battery helped you crank the engine up last time you started it, but w/ a bad alternator you used up all the juice in the new battery, thus no crank this time around. If you buy another new battery, I bet you can drive around for another 1-2 days.

All your symptoms indicate that there is a major electrical shortage. Most likely it's your alternator. If you haven't done so yet, have you checked all the major electrical supply wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
TheoR said:
Yes, it can still be your alternator because the alternator might be cutting off on an intermittent basis. Your new battery helped you crank the engine up last time you started it, but w/ a bad alternator you used up all the juice in the new battery, thus no crank this time around. If you buy another new battery, I bet you can drive around for another 1-2 days.

All your symptoms indicate that there is a major electrical shortage. Most likely it's your alternator. If you haven't done so yet, have you checked all the major electrical supply wires?

It isn't not cranking due to power, it is not cranking as in no fuel. It is turning over fine but just not firing up.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If engine is turning but now not firing up you may have a bad fuel pump. but it may also be a simple issue as a blown fuse or bad earth.
Have you checked fuses in engine compartment
 

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Discussion Starter #7
viperover said:
If engine is turning but now not firing up you may have a bad fuel pump. but it may also be a simple issue as a blown fuse or bad earth.
Have you checked fuses in engine compartment

checked all the fuses and relays and all tested good. As for the bad earth, is there a good way of testing them? I essentially tested the battery on a volt meter and then left the hot on the battery and tested the ground to the earth points in the engine compartment and all read good.

Would a bad fuel pump cause a gearbox fault?
 

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Sounds like your BECM is out of sync with the engine ECU.Probably needs a resync by testbook or blackbox syncmate.
 

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Bet you charged the battery whilst still in vehicle.

These new electronic chargers spike voltages up 15.7 and will not do the electrnics any good.

Have you done the disconnect of battery and re-connect, battery must be disconnected for a good hour.

Key must be in position 2, make sure you open a window before you do it as the doors lock when you reconnect battery, this may or may not help with your problem.

Can you hear fuel pump run when you turn key to position 2

One problem poking its head up here in South Africa is these darn old style tracking units, these not only cause battery drain due to a faulty back up battery but they also control the fuel pump, not sure if other markets came fitted with the same device but they look and have a Land Rover part number
 

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Discussion Starter #10
quick update on my issues. I sat down for about 4 hours after work today and finally got it going. Not sure how but I ended up with a RL2 relay out and for some reason the fuel shuts off and the vehicle won't crank without it. I put it in and it fired up. Now I have a P1669 code which is a EMC fan circuit open or not responding and I tried to take care of it and couldn't figure it out. Not sure if this code has been hanging around for awhile or not but it is there now. I was getting around 8 volts out of the harness to the fan which should power a small electric motor so I might just order a new fan and stick it in next week and see if it squares it away.
 
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