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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
My DR light is starting to come on more frequently as time goes by. I also get the message "suspension fault vehicle lean when cornering".
By reading the search, it appears that this could have a number of causes. The car is not leaning to one side when parked.
The reservoir is filled to the minimum line.
Any ideas or help about where to begin looking much appreciated.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #2

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Changed the filter today. You do not need 2 quarts of fluid as the video implies. Hardly anything drains out when the filter is removed. BTW, the original filter looks pristine so I would guess that this is not a high priority maintenance requirement.
 

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If it seems to be taken care of from topping off the fluid, you need to check for your leak. I've seen the pump and the sway bars themselves leak, and if there is a fair amount of oxidation on the underside, might want to check the lines too.

These reservoirs tend to get real dirty, and can be tricky to accurately check fluid level, I replace these regularly, as there is a secondary filter built into it. The valve block filter being clean is a good sign that the pump is in good shape, and I recommend changing the filter and fluid in the system every 60-75k miles.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Dave, What sensor or failure triggers the light to come on?
My light just came back on, and I can't notice anything different.
Thanks
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #7
Never mind Dave--- I just read this on my DVD manual--
Looks like I need to let a dealer hook up their diagnostic equipment.
A question -- Does the IDT tool read these RRS specific codes?

"Failure Modes
Failures where the vehicle can still be driven safely are indicated by the air suspension/Dynamic Response warning indicator in the
instrument cluster illuminating continuously in an amber color. The amber indicator will remain illuminated until the ignition is
switched off. For all faults, the warning indicator will only illuminate again if the fault is still present.
Failures which require the driver to stop the vehicle immediately are indicated by the air suspension/Dynamic Response warning
indicator flashing in a red color and an audible warning. This will also be accompanied by an applicable message displayed in the
message centre.
All faults are recorded by the control module and can be retrieved using a Land Rover approved diagnostic system. The diagnostic
system provides a description of the fault, possible causes and corrective action to rectify the fault. The control module can fail to
one of two states; 'locked bars' or 'reduced operation'.
The 'locked bars' condition means that pump flow is directed through the valve block and returns to the reservoir. Both DCV's
close, trapping the fluid in the actuators. The fluid can flow from one actuator to the other via the valve block. The stabilizer bars
will perform similar to a conventional stabilizer bar, resisting roll but still allowing suspension articulation.
The 'reduced operation' condition means that the system can still operate, but one of the input signals is not being received and
so the system performance is not optimum.
If the steering angle sensor develops a fault or is out of calibration, there is a possibility that the dynamic response control
module will record a fault code. A Land Rover approved diagnostic system should be used to check for fault codes and the
adaptive data should be cleared by resetting the fault codes in the control module after the steering angle sensor has been
recalibrated.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #9
I have ordered an Icarsoft i930 scanner. apparently it will scan all the RR codes. Much more reasonable then the IID tool, but I will see.
I will update .
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #10
The DR light has not returned, and today I plugged in the Icarsoft i930 scan tool and so far I am impressed. It read all of my Sport's module's DTC's. There were quite a few.. I cleared most of them, and will now wait a few days to see what comes back.
NAYYY with Icarsoft.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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68 Posts
Hi there, last months i got the amber light come on with the text in the display, air suspension fault, vehicle may lean while cornering, some times the light is red, text: stop car, stop engine safely. That was a stress situation, i've read alot of posts and comparred the info online with my own situation. I didn't feel fine by going to the LR dealer, everytime i go broke....

Went to a independent land rover guy, read the fault codes, is a dynamic response fault, sensor fault, or something, after deleting fault codes the warning disapears for a few days, then its back after a day or two. After deleting fault codes for 3 times, made sure their were no leaks, we changed the filter, now the fault code is gone for over two weeks and about 30 starts, looks problem is solved, the dealer sure would have made a $1000 to $2000 for changing pump or electronics, so my advise is, dont run to fast to your dealer and read the internet for tips and tricks and find a guy who will help you :thumb:
 

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Hey Arby, did the filter change and fluid top off solve your problem? DR light still off?

The DR light has not returned, and today I plugged in the Icarsoft i930 scan tool and so far I am impressed. It read all of my Sport's module's DTC's. There were quite a few.. I cleared most of them, and will now wait a few days to see what comes back.
NAYYY with Icarsoft.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, it came back on. Turned out that it was one of two solenoids (directional control valves) . I got the code C1B03 which is directional control valve 1. The light has remained off since I changed that part. The solenoids are in the same module as the filter underneath the right doors on the frame. I cut a 27mm combination wrench in half to do this job. Pretty tight up there.
The filter was spotless when I changed that. IMO was not necessary.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I'm happy u fix your problem.

Did you loosing up the front and back lines to drain out some of the old fluid ? (Atlantic British video)
My mileage is 77k and I am thinking about replacing the dsc filter, and change out some of the fluid.
I am just worry of getting air in the system and messing up the whole dsc system. So far no error code.


No, it came back on. Turned out that it was one of two solenoids (directional control valves) . I got the code C1B03 which is directional control valve 1. The light has remained off since I changed that part. The solenoids are in the same module as the filter underneath the right doors on the frame. I cut a 27mm combination wrench in half to do this job. Pretty tight up there.
The filter was spotless when I changed that. IMO was not necessary.
 

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I'm having this issue myself, I get C1119-09. I suspect I caused this, a mechanic who looked at the car mentioned I was low and I should top up the ACE fluid (I told him about getting intermittent yellow warnings for it). I topped it off, but like an idiot did it up to the top, rather than the max line. Shortly thereafter it failed while flexing on trail. I replaced the valve block filter and flushed the reservoir to empty a few times (reservoir is a somewhat dirty and probably a candidate for replacement according to the guide in the TSB) but I am still getting the issue.

I had a shop run the dynamic response test on the car and it looked like the majority of lines had 0 bar pressure and one had maybe 40ish bar.

The guide suggests replacing the pressure control valve if you can't get 50 bar pressure but it costs ~$220 and I'm trying to get this fixed asap since I have the week off (and want to go test my new sliders in moab). I found a local LR junkyard that has the whole hydraulic pump assembly (sorry if this is the incorrect term) for $200 used. It seems like the only other options are the reservoir filter (kinda dirty but more flushing should continue to clean it) or the actuators (I lost my wheel lock key last week and am waiting for the mailed replacement, so a shop couldn't do these for me yet anyhow). My assumption is that any shop would do the PCV first anyways so I'm thinking I will replace the whole pump and if that doesn't fix it, get a shop to run diagnostics and see what they recommend. Any advice welcomed. I don't believe this is leak based and haven't noticed any.
 

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I realized that my assumption that the pump and valve block filter are the same was incorrect. I'm thinking that since the pressure was virtually 0 (I believe 3/4 lines were 0 bars and the other was maybe 43) that the pump is more likely the culprit, my assumption is that the valve block pressure control valve doesn't have any pressure to operate on because the pump is burnt out?
 

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I read a bit more about the system in the service manual and some general info about hydraulic systems and believe the following to be true.

The hydraulic pump is driven off an engine belt. It doesn't look as likely to fail per se, as it looks like a fairly "simple" mechanically driven component. The pressure control valve seems like the more likely culprit (not upping the from pump pressure to suitable levels, why I'm seeing some pressure in one pipe but not the others). I'm going to replace the valve block tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue.

The other thing I'm wondering is how driveable the car is? The manual says that a failure basically just degrades to the locked bars condition, if so does that mean my range is fine to drive (and even offroad? I've taken 3 days off this week and wanted to go to moab) but that I basically just have an HSE til I fix it? I'd love some conjecture on this last point (please encourage me to put this off if it seems safe lol). The repair shop won't take it til Wednesday so my time off will be shot.
 

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Did you ever get this figured out? I also have code C1119-09 - Hydralic Pressure, I checked the filter in the valve block and it was distorted so I replaced it. Also, I replace the high pressure hose (Was seeping a little) and reservoir since it was contaminated.

Didn't seem to fix my issues so I'am hoping some one has had this issue before I go buying a valve block or pump.

I have a 2012 RRS SC

Thanks!

I read a bit more about the system in the service manual and some general info about hydraulic systems and believe the following to be true.

The hydraulic pump is driven off an engine belt. It doesn't look as likely to fail per se, as it looks like a fairly "simple" mechanically driven component. The pressure control valve seems like the more likely culprit (not upping the from pump pressure to suitable levels, why I'm seeing some pressure in one pipe but not the others). I'm going to replace the valve block tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue.

The other thing I'm wondering is how driveable the car is? The manual says that a failure basically just degrades to the locked bars condition, if so does that mean my range is fine to drive (and even offroad? I've taken 3 days off this week and wanted to go to moab) but that I basically just have an HSE til I fix it? I'd love some conjecture on this last point (please encourage me to put this off if it seems safe lol). The repair shop won't take it til Wednesday so my time off will be shot.
 

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Here are some photos of the parts I've changed, still have the issue, but figured I would share what I've seen and done so far.

Valve Block Filter (Distorted)
IMG_1298.jpeg IMG_4774.jpeg

ACE Pump reservoir (Black contaminates)
IMG_8068.jpeg

ACE Pump High Pressure hose (Some oil seepage)
IMG_3198.jpeg
 
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