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Discussion Starter #1
My last post on this job was meant to inform and entertain.

In this one, I am asking for validation of my existence, as well as on a rogue step I took in fitting the new gasket and pump.

In removing the old gasket, I noticed there were some preexisting pocks and that I had made some new scrapes. i wasn't tremendously worried about it, it was just an observation.

I also noticed that there were some of the same conditions on the new pump.

I had some water pump RTV sealant at my work bench. I applied it to both sides of the gasket since I had it.

So, am I an idiot for doing this?


Thanks!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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First, you are not an idiot, at least in regard to this job.

Regarding your previous post about cleaning the mating surfaces:
It sounds like someone else has applied a fully hardening cement to the gasket, where they should have either applied none at all, or a non hardening type.

Let's hope you have not made the same mistake.
Applying it both surfaces will do no harm, except making it a bit harder for the next guy to clean up.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, that next guy will likely be me. I hope to have this thing until 200K miles.

I've used this sealant before. It is actually a gasketing sealant. I or the next guy should be able to easily scrape it off. It dries in a rubbery texture.
 

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Before some stop leak I was lying under ours with motor running and saw water [yes clear] being squeezed thru the pump gasket one slow drop at a time. So applying sealer to both sides makes logical sense which would therefore also coat the gasket edge. Certainly made me think about the importance of a sealer for gaskets, so good one.
 

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lesjonpool said:
I've used this sealant before. It is actually a gasketing sealant. I or the next guy should be able to easily scrape it off. It dries in a rubbery texture.
I've used that stuff before as well, its great quality stuff and is easy to clean off later on in life.

I've got a friend who says he's used it instead of a gasket on his defenders 2.5NA cylinder head :think: However he does say alot of things, apparently Freelanders have low range + high range transfer box's and are a permanent 50-50 four weel drive arrangement, and all MOD defenders have no breaking bias, they are a 50-50 split so they stop faster.

I'll be honest, its just entertaining to have him around, he serves no other purpose :roll: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In the interest of posting for posterity, My water pump started leaking a couple of weeks ago - again. As you can see from the initial date of this post, I got 2 years out of the water pump or gasket. Quite a shame, I thought.

So, I cannot say exactly whether or not it started leaking so prematurely due to the RTV sealant I used. All I know is that the gasket was extraordinarily easy to get off this time as opposed to last. Next, I did not use the RTV sealant this time - just the paper gasket. I currently do not have a leak but will keep this post updated.

Here is another interesting tidbit of information. I was not going to replace the pump just yet since the leak was minor. I did not mind topping up the coolant by about a half a quart a week. However, this week I got a a Service Engine Soon light and the rover was running roughly. I actually thought I had lost a spark plug or wire. The OBDII Fault Code was P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor. I have had this code before, along with a few associated ones, and it ended up being a battery cable issue and a blowing of a fuse. However, this time, it was only the P0340 code. As the camshaft position sensor was located just below the coolant leak, I figured this issue was related to the leak. So, I went ahead and replaced the pump. I pulled the Camshaft Position Sensor as well. I figured it was an electrical issue rather than a failed sensor. My intent was to clean the connectors as they were assuredly corroded. Upon inspecting the gummed up sensor connector, I was dissatisfied with the cleaning. I rolled the dice and clipped the connector out of the circuit. I then spliced the wires together and reconnected the sensor. I put the water pump back together again and all seems to be well.

Take this for what it is worth. Hopefully it helps someone someday. Now I just need to find the leaks in the EAS of my P38.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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On every motor I swap out or remove, that **** camshaft sensor plug breaks off the wire.... :oops:
Not one other connection will break, but that one will everytime. I crimp on a new heat shrink spade connector and have yet to have any issues.
Re the RTV, I use a THIN smearing of Permatex Blue on every water pump I put on. No leaks, and there is really no way for the RTV to cause a leak to be honest.
Water pumps are a service item on these rigs, @50k miles or a couple of years is all I expect from them, regardless of make installed.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, it looks like I got a false positive on the camshaft position sensor fix. I took it on a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine. When I left today, the rover was riding rough. Now I suppose it is the sensor itself or the wiring to the sensor. I sure hope it is the former since replacing it seems to be the clearest path.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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If you indeed suspect the cam sensor, pull the wire and check the plug has a good connection. They will break as soon as you look at them.
After that part, the wiring disappears into the main engine loom!

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My 2 cents on paper gaskets. :geek:
I've replaced hundereds of gaskets, during my seagoing career, and found that a thin coating of Never-Seize (get messy and paint it on with your fingers) completely covering the gasket works wonders. The most important thing is the condition of the metal surfaces. If there's any damage, or left over old gasket, then you're in for a challenge. We tend to save the RTV for these cases when the mating surfaces aren't real healthy. The reason I avoid using RTV is the "sqeeze out" will make beads on the inside of the pump casing that can come loose and end up in places in your cooling system that they're not wanted (radiator passages). First rule of gasket fitting is start with clean, undamaged, surfaces when at all possible.

For the aluminum block Rangie I use chemical gasket remover, copper tubing hammered into a scraper, lots of patience and a final clean up with a Scotch Brite pad. The water pump is a bitch of a spot to work in...



 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the responses. I am concerned at the moment. I pulled my camshaft position sensor and it was coated with oil. I do not recall it being coated with oil when I pulled it previously. I hope I do not have some sort of internal engine leak.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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the front cover is the oil seal on our rigs. The front main seal is on the front cover, and the front pulley slides into it all to seal it up from outside.
Granted I have never noticed a cam sensor coated with oil, but that part of the motor is "wet" to a certain extent.
I would be checking the PCV system to ensure it isnt creating too much pressure and blowing it around too much.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fixed the issue. The power cable somehow got situated next to the exhaust manifold and a ground wire got severed. I repaired it and all is well.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
leftlanetruckin said:
On every motor I swap out or remove, that **** camshaft sensor plug breaks off the wire.... :oops:
Not one other connection will break, but that one will everytime. I crimp on a new heat shrink spade connector and have yet to have any issues.
Re the RTV, I use a THIN smearing of Permatex Blue on every water pump I put on. No leaks, and there is really no way for the RTV to cause a leak to be honest.
Water pumps are a service item on these rigs, @50k miles or a couple of years is all I expect from them, regardless of make installed.

Martin
Well, I have a leak in my water pump after just replacing it a few weeks ago. Just when I think I've been getting good at this, my amateur status keeps showing itself. I now have to remove the water pump and attach the gasket, this time with the RTV sealant. Man, I'm having a rough time of it. At least this is a relatively simple procedure..... unless, of course, the new gasket has already fused to the mating surfaces.
 

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On all of the water pumps I have done I use a very light smear of RTV on both sides fo the paper gasket. I clean the front cover surface with a drill wire brush ahead of install. As far as the Cam Sensor, I have never had one fail or break during removal. However I have had several that I have found the factory ORing to have failed or was missing completely! A proper ORing with a tiny bit of RTV on the flat face surface keeps 'em nice and dry.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I have never had an issue with the sensor itself Carl, just the flimsy wire that plugs onto it :?
It's just a spade connector that lets a little moisture into the plug itself, thus making the wire brittle after a little corrosion sets in. At least thats what I have found with the ones I have messed with. Now I just have the correct size spade connector on hand that already has the heat shrink built into it :thumb:

Martin
 
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