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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I have the following symptoms.
1. When I have both lights and 'heating' on in my RR, the battery light on the dash becomes very dimly lit.
2. My Tachometer bounces around, and a lot of the time, I'm pretty certain that it's not giving me the right reading.
3. I have a voltage meter on the dash, and when I'm driving this is a constant 13-14 Volts.

I'm beginning to think my alternator is not all it could be.
If this is the case, how much would a rebuild cost, vs a replacement? I've heard mention of upgrading to a Bosch alternator, where's a good place to get hold of these?
Thanks,
James
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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367 Posts
I bought a replacement alternator from NAPA. Has a lifetime warranty. I've already replaced it once in 5 years. I thought about having the OEM rebuilt when my buddy talked me out of it.
 

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84 Posts
Years ago I had my Lucas alternator rebuilt locally and it failed just after one year. It was pumping out 18v which fried my rear window defroster grid. I've got several burn spots thanks to that junk Lucas alternator. So I refused to spend another cent on that Lucas, then I decided to try and fit my VW Bosch alternator. Sure enough it fit and I made a DIY page to share with others. I've granted permission to John Brabyn to mirror my DIY on his page.

http://www.3dzubehor.com/Rover/Boschalternator.html

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/electrical/boschalternator.html

You can easily find a 90A or 120A VW Bosch alternators on ebay or your local junkyard for cheap..
There are also 140A from newer VWs, but the electrical plug differs. These newer alternators are not as reliable as the earlier ones, so please avoid them if you want reliability.
 

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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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4,635 Posts
It looks like it is charging fine if the equipment is working OK. Maybe check the battery and the earths/grounds. The charge should drop once the battery is loaded so 13 may still be too high and the alternator is trying to compensate for this. What battery are you using?

Work through the electrical sticky at the top of the forum.

BTW, Lucas isn't as bad as it is made out to be. It's the Chinese/Korean/Bangladeshi ones you need to look out for. You know, the new ones on eBay being sold at half the price of a branded unit. I tend to think Bosch is cheap German [email protected] - to give an example the L322 M62 engines have a big Bosch alternator and I've seen 2 of these fail badly enough to destroy a very expensive battery and also in one of the two cases, take out a gearbox ECU. Then the owner has to find £500 for an EXCHANGE alternator (Which LR UK has on VOR only!), £130 for the battery and £150 for the ECU, and that's before 1.5hrs of labour and 4 ltrs of coolant because it is mounted IN the engine block to water cool the back of it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Eric has the best write up. You will need to drill the pully if you want to use a bosch. I run one and couldnt be happeier, bosch vs lucas hmm seems like a no brainer to me. I checked your link and they seem to have direct fit ones maybe try one of those.
 
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