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Discussion Starter #1
I put in an alternator and a new batter both about 3 years ago, maybe 4. Would a bad battery make the fault go or is that really the alternator? Have the dreaded chime and warning words on everything from traction control to gearbox to the spedo sitting at zero as I was crusing along at 30ish.



Last couple times I had a bad battery it acted very strange, not this goofy.
 

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Sounds to me like an alternator going bad.

You'll start w/ faults that you've mentioned, then it proceeds to give you faults such as radio shutting off, NAV screen going dark, A/C shutting off, then SRS fault, until finally, the instrument binnacle illumination going dark-gradually. This is the point that the car stops moving, btw in my case. Oh yeah, is your transmission starting at 3rd gear all the time as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Third gear, that could have been what was going on for a bit up hill after a stoplight with 50 cars behind me.

Darn. Battery is cheap and easy, I need someone else to do the alternator for me. Guess I have plans tomorrow.
 

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Yes looks like the alternator is the bad boy, it is quick and easy to change though.

Here in the UK a new one costs about the same as a good new battery ie £120.

Sid.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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An alternator is about 20 minutes to change out.

-Disconnect battery
-disconnect two wires on alternator
-Turn the belt tension spring with the help of a big wrench or ratchet and remove serpentine belt
-Remove two bolts on alternator and take out the pig

Installation is opposite of removal.

Alternator is a perfect 'first fix' to try out getting your hands dirty. Plus you'll save probably 2-3 hundred dollars by buying a remanufactured one, and doing it yourself.

Good luck.
 

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I've gone the rebuilt route for my alternator. It's been a year or so, so I can't remember how much I paid but I think it was around $70-$120. The rebuilt essentially replaced the entire internal component of the alternator.

BTW, while you're at it, probably a good idea to buy a serpentine belt and replace it as well, as you have to take it off anyway.
 

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Iceberg said:
...I need someone else to do the alternator for me. Guess I have plans tomorrow.
Nah, if you can change the battery, you can change the alternator. Disconnect the battery, pull the belt, 10mm and 13mm nuts for the two wires and then the two mounting bolts. The bolts use 13mm with 10mm needed for their nuts on the back side. Maybe 20 minutes to change... maybe. 8-|=
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took closer to an hour, the belt was also in pretty bad shape so another thing there as well.

Thanks guys, I had never had the spedo stop working! Very eerie.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
By the way I could not have done this where I lived before, it was 55 and sunny this afternoon. Gotta love Seattle! Snowy and 19 where I used to live.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK I have gone through the steps of setting windows (all 5) the radio (this is a pain because the screen is no longer visible) and the key fobs. These were a 3 minute process, total.

But the check engine light is still on - what can I do about that? is that software still available if I purchase a cable to connect to a lap top?
 

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Is it the check engine light for sure or the service engine soon light? Often times w/ faulty alternator, you can have a misfire and your MAF gets dirty. When my alternator failed, I had the SES, and as a result, I had to clean the MAF. Cleaning the MAF solved the problem.

If it is the check engine light, then you probably want to scan you OBD to see what faults you're getting.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I currently have a P38 RR 2000 with a message that reads "ALTERNATOR FAULT". The thing is that my old alternator died, and it took the battery with it. I since then replaced the battery (brand spanking new) and the alternator (brand spanking new). I was riding fine, but now all of my ride height lights light up with the alternator fault message, and the RPM needle moves like I am recording sound! My diagnostic readout said nothing of the sort: says "engine speed signal power stage".
So a MAS replacement will fix this problem??? :pray:
 

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VSOP382000USA said:
I currently have a P38 RR 2000 with a message that reads "ALTERNATOR FAULT". The thing is that my old alternator died, and it took the battery with it. I since then replaced the battery (brand spanking new) and the alternator (brand spanking new). I was riding fine, but now all of my ride height lights light up with the alternator fault message, and the RPM needle moves like I am recording sound! My diagnostic readout said nothing of the sort: says "engine speed signal power stage".
So a MAS replacement will fix this problem??? :pray:
Sounds like you need to run the electrical sticky above and post back your results. Jsut because the items are new doesn't mean they are operating properly. You could also have a bad cable or faulty ground
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You are right because this morning I replaced the MAFS and let it run. The truck ran fine; the starting rpms were lower, and it remained lower. No sooner than I took the truck for a longer drive the problem still occurred. Now what exactly is a "electrical sticky"? :doh:
 

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I've a Jan 96 2.5DSE which had a poor battery. The garage has been jump starting it and they tell me the alternator isn't charging now - as soon as they take the booster cables off it stops. Yet there's no alternator warning light. They've checked the underbonnet fuses and say they seem fine but they can smell burning!

Any ideas?!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds like the alternator is toast, hence the burning smell and it dying as soon as the jump leads are disconnected. Connect the jump leads and also connect a meter across the battery. Check the battery voltage (you'll actually be looking at the voltage from the battery being used to start it), start the engine and see what the battery voltage is showing now. If the same or lower as before you started it, then there is nothing coming out of the alternator. If it was working you'd see the voltage go up to 14.4V or thereabouts.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hey just adding this on to the thread as I'msourcing a ERR5834 (the 150amp) out right now.
Check here as well:
http://www.rangerovers.net/rrparts4.html#electnew

Price for a Canadian (i.e all in CAD) to buy theERR5834:

Roversparts.com
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR5834RK
499.99 (399.99 + 100 Core charge)

eBay calironia_alternator_starter
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100-NEW-ALTERNATOR-FOR-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-ERR5834-AL0809X-/290372912740
295.52 (190.05 + 105.47 shipping)

LR Direct
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR5834-supplied-by-britpart-branded-bosch.html
461.15 all-in

Paddock Spares
http://www.paddockspares.com/err5834-alternator-150-amp-v8-petrol.html
659.76

Island 4x4
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/alternator-4046-9802-150amp-bosch-err5834-p-890.html
454.66


Ali express
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/150A-12V-AUTO-ALTERNATOR-ERR5834-0123520022-FOR-LAND-ROVER/529338_1253890895.html
262.87

I haven't asked any of the forum vendors such as marty or shupak yet.
If anyone has any good leads let me know, as everyone loves to save money
 

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Shupak is not and has not been a vendor for a very long time.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sorry, I just listed the first two that came to mind.
Who would be a good vendor to contact?
 
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