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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2001 P 38. Has the original Alpine head which I intend to keep and send out for an AUX jack. It is an HSE with the HK speaker setup. I don't have the owners manual and was wondering how the balance and fade settings are done on the Alpine. I don't see anything obvious on the head unit itself. Right now all the sound is coming out the front and I want to verify that all the speakers and subs are working before removing the head and sending it out for the jack. Thanks.j
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have an 00 with the HK system, not sure if that is the Alpine or not. On mine you hit the music note button and that cycles from bass, treble, sub, balance and fade every time you tap it. Use the volume knob to change the values.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I just bought a 2001 P 38. Has the original Alpine head which I intend to keep and send out for an AUX jack. It is an HSE with the HK speaker setup. I don't have the owners manual and was wondering how the balance and fade settings are done on the Alpine. I don't see anything obvious on the head unit itself. Right now all the sound is coming out the front and I want to verify that all the speakers and subs are working before removing the head and sending it out for the jack. Thanks.j
On the late cars with the premium HK/ Alpine system the head unit is pretty much just a signal processor. The DSP amp in the boot does the bulk of the work in terms of sound shaping, nav voice integration, that sort of thing.
Unfortunately that DSP amp has a short lifespan. Correct replacements are hard (and very expensive) to find used and unobtanium new. People put similar units in from Discoveries etc, which work on the front speakers but not rears.
The head units themselves are pretty robust, but you can't just connect them to any old replacement amplifier. They only work properly with the (correct) DSP amp.
In a nutshell, check out the entire system, beware of wrong DSP fitted and be prepared for heartache if you pay out to have an aux conversion on the head and 10 minutes later your DSP amp goes phut!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Except if you read my DSP replacement thread.... the head unit used in the DSP versions is the same as the non-DSP version (amps in doors). It means that you CAN use external amps if the DSP amp decided it take a dive. It's a fair bit of wiring, but nothing an afternoon with a soldering iron and some heatshrink won't fix...

That aside - as mentioned already, the music note button will take you through the audio settings - whether they are being controlled by the head unit directly (on a non-DSP model) or from the DSP amp.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses so far. So I adjusted the settings and found out the following:

Drivers side door post tweeter not working.
Rear passenger door speaker not working.
Sub woofers not working.

I have adjusted the settings high enough where I should be getting something from all speakers.

So where do I start with this? Should I presume it's just the speakers and tweeters or could it be more than that? Are stock replacement speakers available? I know the guy who repairs the head units and tweeters but the tweeters don't look torn or cracked. I'm no electronics genius and don't even know how to access the door speakers.

Any pointers in the right direction are greatly appreciated. Not sure if this should be a new thread now.
 

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I've found from my previous trucks that the speakers are pretty reliable, so I would start by checking wiring to assure nothing has rattled loose, or gotten pulled by an actuator from any previous work. If the wiring is solid, I would test for current at the speaker to see if you are getting power. Depending on your model you may have a fusebox at the rear subwoofer amp for the system, or separate outstations on each door. If you find that you are not moving current, follow your setup to the applicable fuses, and check them before buying new speakers.

With that being said, to access your speakers you'll need to remove your door cards inside. Open up the door all the way, and find the retaining screws, for most of the doors there is one behind the door handle, and you just shimmy off the plastic behind the lever while pulling it in the open position. There is also a screw on the underside of the armrest, they are all phillips so it's not hard to do, just remove those screws, and carefully pry off the door card. There are plastic retainers around the outer edge of the door card so be careful to not break them off as you remove it. As for access to the front tweeter, that black cover actually just pulls right off, I would use a plastic pry tool to apply press to a free edge, and it will pop off, the tweeter is held inside of the plastic piece, so be cautious removing it and disconnect the wire connector to free it, then you can bench test the tweeter to assure it works. If you end up removing the front door card, there is another screw behind that tweeter panel as well. Finally when you remove the door card be careful to not bend the lock tab that protrudes, you just have to lift up over it once your panel is free, and you can then disconnect the wire connector for the door.

Hopefully my instructions aren't too confusing, as I'm trying to go from memory. A lot of people will always say consult the RAVE, but I have always have trouble navigating it to find what I need, but it is a great information source once you figure out how to properly search it. I think most of problem is that I run a Linux system, and my menus don't work when I try to mount the ISO, so I end up opening randomly labelled files until I find the one I need.

If you find yourself stuck let me know, and I'd be happy to make a quick tutorial for the door card removal, I've taken mine off enough messing with my locks, and broken window actuators it wouldn't be too much hassle once I find the time to do it if needed.

If you do find that your speakers are all toast, which would surprise me, I would suggest finding an aftermarket speaker replacement if you can't source a donor truck in a local junkyard. H/K hardware typically isn't cheap, and a modern JVC, Alpine, Kenwood, etc speaker will work just fine for a replacement. I also say that because if the speakers truly have died, I would imagine the days could be numbered on your others as well. A good set of aftermarkets should run you more than a few hundred dollars for the whole truck, and an afternoon with some wire strippers, and a holding iron. If you can find a P38 locally in a pick a part, I would suggest taking your tools out there, and practicing on that truck for the removal before you tear apart your truck, not only do junkyards make great part sources, but they also make a great place to learn on something for free so you can avoid possible mistakes and damage to your rig. Best of luck, and let me know if I can help.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Spotted Drive- thank you for your detailed response. If you do have the time to elaborate on the door card removal that is much appreciated. My door cards are perfect and I would like to keep them that way. Any "tricks" to avoiding damage are greatly appreciated. I noticed now that it is only the rear door mid-range speaker that is working so the woofers in all four doors seem to be a problem, in addition to the sub-woofer in the rear. :(
 

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Sorry for the delay, here are photos of the steps. The only thing I don't have pictured are removing the tabs, you'll just have to be more careful with that than I was because mine are broken lol. They were already broken before the photos, and I have put screws in the lower side to keep mine tight. I hope this helps

img_1928.jpg
This is a door.
img_1930.jpg
Pull off the tweeter housing and disconnect the wires
img_1934.jpg
This will show the first screw
img_1937.jpg
Then remove these two
img_1939.jpg
Then this one behind the handle
img_1940.jpg
Then wiggle it out
img_1952.jpg
Pry out the door upwards, and disconnect the wires from the speaker, and your door card is removed.
 
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