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This may have been posted before, but I figured I would throw it out there if it hasn't:

The Alpine CD Changer in my 2000 4.6 HSE wasn't working when I purchased the car. Some Google searching found this:

http://blogs.sun.com/miko/entry/cd_changer_repair

I followed the procedureand reinstalled the CD Changer with the face trim off. I noticed that after the gear adjustment I was getting some movement that I wasn't seeing before. A couple whacks with the end of a crescent wrench got things moving again. My CD changer is back up and running... at least for time being. :thumb:

I hope this can help someone else as well.
 

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How to repair your Alpine CD multiplayer in a P38

I too had problems repairing my CD Multichanger in a P38 1999 Range Rover: I thought you might like to see the details of my cure... it works a treat:

Sure I could have replaced the head unit with a CD player & Ipod connection, but I prefer my P38 to be totally original, as it came out of the factory...

Hope this helps.

This cures 5 faults I had.
Intermittent audio in one channel
The CD player skips wildly.
The tray of 6 CDs often sticks.
It looses track of the CD, and says there is no CD inserted, when there is.
The CD player will only play the first 20 or 30 seconds of a track, then goes silent.



Remove the panel in the boot on the left, by turning the four plastic studs by 90 degrees using a 10 pence piece, and then pull away the panel.


Unplug the multiplug on the left of the CD player.
This is where I found the first fault: the cable comes loose in the plug after a decade or so. It is a simple matter to re-solder it, which means that both left and right channels are no longer intermittent.



Remove the CD from it’s mounting, by loosening the four bolts, then lift up and out the CD player.



Unscrew the four screws on the top of the CD player.



Then prise off the top of the lid, by inserting a screwdriver up it’s backside, and loosening the crack in the back, then levering off the top. There is a small lug in the front top, which needs to clip out.



Here I found the second fault.

The anti-shock system for the Alpine CD multiplayer consists of 2 springs and 4 rubber dampers. All 4 of these had fallen off mine, and it was hanging by one spring, meaning that all the vibration of the vehicle was going through to the CD player.



Right, now you can look at the guts of the player, by putting it up on it’s side.
To free the sticky draw problem, there is a small metal lug that had bent up and was holding the drawer in place: it’s a simple matter to bend it straight again.
On the left of its bottom, is the CD reading part. The bit you are really interested in is the worm drive that moves the head under the CD.
Other people have noted that on the lower left hand side of the picture below, there is a worm and drive gear. I didn't have this problem, but you might see that there is a small gap between them, causing the worm to not driving the gear, and therefore it doesn't pull in the CD, which means that the CD player loads, but doesn't recognise, any of the CDs.



Slowly rotate your worm until your head pokes through, by moving all the way to the left hand side. Through the top you can then see the head of the laser. It's the convex bit of perspex in the picture above, behind the bendy steel strip. DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE CD PLAYER PLUGGED IN. You can use a CD lens cleaner to clean the lens, but I’ve found these less than effective with the old Alpine units, so using a small cotton wool bud and an alcohol mix, gently clean the laser lens. This stops the CD player skipping.



The worm drive should also move very freely: spin it and see if the head moves up and down easily, and has some inertia after you finish spinning it. Mine was quite sticky, with a thin coating of red dust. This stops the head moving easily, and the jerks meant the head couldn’t continually read the CD, causing another fault. Clean it, and then apply a very thin layer of audio grease over the brass screw, and then move the head up and down by hand a few times to free it up. If you don’t have any to hand, there should be a some white grease at either ends of the screw, or on the moving tray platter you can use.



Reassembly is a reversal of removal (although, after decades of Haynes manuals, I've started to hate that phrase!). Pop on the two springs (which is quite tricky, as the unit must balance on the springs). Then put on the rubber shocks, pressing them firmly onto the brass spigots, so they can’t come out. The unit should slightly bounce as you shake it, but not touch the sides. Pop the top on, plug it in, and bolt it back into the boot. Robert will then be your mother's brother, music wise.



Finally, you may want to set up your radio, by entering the setup menu. Press and hold the "i" button with the unit turned on, then press the CD button, and Set-up appears on the screen.



The number buttons allow you to change the parameters of the unit: the most useful is button 6 which changes the market area, and the RDS parameters: USA has 10kHz tuning, Oz has 9kHz tuning, etc, although Range Rover's sold in Australia were sent from the factory with 10kHz tuning, so depending on how much you listen to AM radio, you may want to reset it to the correct spacing.

I posted this ages ago for Australian models on the Aussie forums, but I thought it might also be helpful for our cousins in the US, and come to that back in the UK, as so many of the UK ones I drove before emigrating to Oz had a stuffed CD player...
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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take it apart and use some electrical grease on the gears and other parts. you can clean the moving parts first with electrical contact cleaner to do a better job.
 

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Thanks a lot for this post!! Saved me from explaining to the wife why I needed to spend more money on the RR.

All I had to do was manually operate the worm drive for the magazine a few times to get it moving again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Brilliant, made a masterpiece of what one would have thought was another electronic door stop!
Cheers,
from Austin, Texas
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hello, thanks for this excellent write up.

I am hoping that somebody can now help with my challenge, which is that although the cartridge loads, it does not seem to be selecting a disc to read.

When looking at it from the top, there is a large black gear I will try and add a picture of this) which seems to not want to move, after some vigorous trying it moved 2 knotches, but I don't want to force it.

I am thinking that this is the gear which selects the CD. CD unit.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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After alot of work I have managed to use the worm gear in the underside to move the assembly over to the far left position, but this all still seems stiff, has anybody got any more advice or is it a refurb unit now?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I had this problem since i bought the RR a little over a year ago. First I managed it by giving it a thorough work-out, let it scan the disks several times, pulled out the cartridge, put it in again, let it scan the disks again. Worked a short while, then, as I wanted to change to another cd, it got stuck again. So had to be some ceased grease or so.

Took it out and apart, and tried to clean the metal surfaces, where sliding actions happen, used silicone electronic grease, but after a few days, the drawer got stuck again. I didn't have any problems with the worm gear.

Seemed to be the sliding arm and the black plastic-slider attached to it - and driven by the large black gearwheel on the top. With power on the unit, just give it a short push with a fingernail, and it might move so much, so it's possible to get the cartridge out, if it's stuck.

I cleaned the gliding surfaces with grease remover and (yes, i know, but I didn't thing I had anything to lose) with brake cleaner on cotton swabs, while moving the units back and forth. The sheet metal plates on the front and back for moving the drawer/reader unit up and down, there's a white medium size gear wheel at the bottom side, backwards, again with caution and a fingernail, it can be moved. As for the drawer, it's as mentioned, the large black gear wheel on top.

Cleaned as good as possible, put some oil (acid free, sowing machine oil or equivalent) on the gliding surfaces and tried it out, worked. And now, a few days later, it still works, I can still change cd! And I hope it keeps going some time.

I'm planning to change input plug on the head unit (have got one with the right plug for at Blaupunkt HU), and letting a "silent disk" run in the changer - there was a thread here somewhere, but I cant find it anymore. Any of you know, how to search or what the title was (can't search for aux, it's too short), maybe able to post a link?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Great info. Will give my CD a go with these instructions. Cheers
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi Mine just had a nervy today coming home from Sydney I was dreading telling the wife that something else was playing up after reading the previous posts I at least have some ideas to go on with thankyou all very much
 
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