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Discussion Starter #1
So I drove my 06 L322 SC (365,000km) to the corner store a few days ago. 10 minute drive. Ran good as always. Shut it off and went inside for 2 minutes.

When I started it to leave, a HUGE amount of smoke came out the exhaust, enough that it made a pretty big cloud and took a minute to dissipate. Enough that the blower fan sucked a lot into the cabin and I had to put all the windows down to clear it.

On the drive home it was running fine. About 1 minute away from my house it started to run really rough. Misfiring and no power. Sounded bad. No mechanical noise of any sort just running rough.

Pulled in the laneway and shut it off.

Let it sit 20mins, tried to start it, turns over like normal but then when it starts to fire there's some mechanical noise and it immediately stops turning over, does not start.

Tried a second time and turns over a few times, then a clunk and no longer turning over.

Third time it won't even turn over, like something in the engine is binding.

A week prior to this happing, it threw a cam position sensor code, but ran perfectly fine, strong, pulled hard up to redline with full boost etc. Cleared this code and never saw it again.

Any idea what the problem could be? I hear this engine is bulletproof and rarely even needs timing chains...

My logic and common sense tells me it's an internal engine issue. Would timing chains skip? Is that possible? If one of them skipped (it has 4?) would it have these symptoms?

Is the AJV8 4.2L and interference engine? Meaning if it is timing chains, has a piston or many likely contacted the valvetrain and caused additional damage?

Anyone ever rebuild the 4.2L SC?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

I love my 06 and although it has extremely high kilometers on it, it runs well and has been pretty good to me over the last 6+ years of ownership, and I'm not ready to give up on it yet!

Thanks


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Check the nose of your SC, may have blown the front oil seal in the nose of the supercharger and sucked oil into the intercoolers and intake, and then bound up the supercharger if the bearing failed. Take the drive belt off and make sure it will rotate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah, that's a good idea!! I'll check that out.

I actually drained the SC fluid and changed it either late last fall or early this spring.

Funny that Land Rover says the SC is sealed for life, don't change the fluid in the snout lol. Yet Eaton says something like every 40-60,000 miles to flush it.

Cost peanuts for the fluid and easy enough to suck out the old fluid and refill it.

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Check the nose of your SC, may have blown the front oil seal in the nose of the supercharger and sucked oil into the intercoolers and intake, and then bound up the supercharger if the bearing failed. Take the drive belt off and make sure it will rotate.
Hopefully this is his issue, in order for the blower to suck oil through the snout the rotor shaft seal/bearing would have to fail throwing them out of their alignment causing things to bind up. Replacing the blower would be a much easier job than pulling the engine apart. OP just pull the belt off the blower and try to spin it, that'll tell the story.
 

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Ah, that's a good idea!! I'll check that out.

I actually drained the SC fluid and changed it either late last fall or early this spring.

Funny that Land Rover says the SC is sealed for life, don't change the fluid in the snout lol. Yet Eaton says something like every 40-60,000 miles to flush it.

Cost peanuts for the fluid and easy enough to suck out the old fluid and refill it.

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I've always run mobile 1 5w30 in all my eatons... Never an issue.
 

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I ordered the supercharger specific fluid, not sure that it's any better than engine oil, but that's what it called for. I read most Eaton guys put engine oil in them...

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I started just using mobile one back in 2004 after having an eaton ported and flowbenched by a pro... Upon receiving the blower back and inspecting the oil lvl noticed it was not new/clear GM supercharger fluid. Called and he explained he just uses mobile 1 in every blower he does, and he does thousands of them. I don't know how the chemistry comes into play between the legit SC oil and mobile 1, but it seems to work just fine and I always have motor oil on my parts shelf.
 

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Its on its own belt, called the secondary belt. Easy to pull off, but I don't think you can start a SC'ed engine without the sc spinning, no way to get the air past the stationary rotors. You can pull the belt off and try and crank it but it probably won't start if it turns over.
 

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Don't know, these are little roots blowers with interlocking rotors, don't know what the internal air passageways look like in these, but I guess we're just trying to figure out if the SC is froze up, or the engine has some kind of mechanical issue at this point. Run or not if its disconnected and the engine rolls over at least the problem is in the SC and not the way more expensive to fix engine.
 
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