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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have information on the process of doing timing guides/tensioners/chain with associated timing of the engine for the 5.0? Like needed parts and so on. Tools as well though I have a short list.

Planning on joining Topix tomorrow to do as much research and downloading of info as I can. I plan on doing this job in the next coming months if I can get enough information to do a proper picture DIY.

Along with a picture DIY I plan on doing a segmented video on the explanation of the process.

Thanks

Rob


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replace the guides, the tensioners, the chains, the drive sprocket, the 4 VVT sprockets (2 EX, 2 IN)
the water pump and T stat the cam cover seals, the spark plugs,
best to get a new set of injectors, the front timing cover, the base intake gaskets,
the SC middle gasket, the SC drive bushing and oil kit
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the extra information.


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I was under the impression that the timing chain issues on the 5.0l were just the guides and hydrolic tensioners, not the chains themselves as they were not stretched. Replacing guides and tensioners is a much easier job than replacing the chains also. Am I incorrect?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was under the impression that the timing chain issues on the 5.0l were just the guides and hydrolic tensioners, not the chains themselves as they were not stretched. Replacing guides and tensioners is a much easier job than replacing the chains also. Am I incorrect?
You would be correct, from what I’ve noted though through reading is that the chain will stretch while the tensioner guide combo is failing. This will cause the chain to go out of tolerance and pop a timing engine code.


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Discussion Starter #10
Does anyone know if the guides and tensioner can be replaced without retiming the entire engine? That is if the chain is within tolerance specifications.


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The main question here is how to make sure that crankshaft position is correct, because there is a lot of room for mistake...?
 

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if the the crank keyway is at 6 O clock then you should be able to fit the line up pin to the crank locking, then fit the cam shaft locking tools to the rear of the cams.

When refitting the cam covers use Dreibond on the areas where the chains run .
NOTE while looking at the engine it would be on the right sides of the cam covers where they meet the head the chains fling oil at the heads and if these areas are not sealed then oil will leak . I was able to loosen the can cover bolts engough to remove the black RTV the dealer used and put the dribond in no more leaks.
NOTE use it on both sides of the cover where the chain runs up and the then on the down side
 
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