Range Rovers Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Air suspension stopped working, the suspension lights come on dashboard when I start the car, I can hear clicking from the trunk area and then the suspension lights go out. The vehicle can't be raised or lowered.

My diagnostics tool reads C1A13-64 Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery.

I removed the air compressor from the vehicle, disconnect it from the tanks. Tested it by hooking up the air compressor to the car battery. The compressor starts, I can feel the air being sucked in from the input pipe and pushed out from the output pipe. Does the above test validate the compressor and dryer filtration is good?


Based on my research I came across the following statements:

Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery = Compressor fault 95% of cases ,! Our Exhaust valve seal & dryer filtration repair kit together with fitting instructions recommended.

Will replacing the exhaust value seals help ?

Remember the only pressure sensor monitors gallery pressure, and your code is saying its having problems with gallery pressure not reducing, which strongly suggests either the pilot exhaust solenoid is bad or the exhaust valve is stuck

Is there a way to test the pilot exhaust solenoid? I can not found a new pilot exhaust solenoid part for purchase
is there a way to determine if the exhaust value is stuck. I took the cover off ,springs and looked at it. I didn't pull it out of the housing.


Thank you for looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Remove the sintered bronze filter from the compressor exhaust and see if that resolves the issue
I should have mention , based on research, which it seem to work for others but did NOT work for me when I removed the bronze filter.
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
Stuck exhaust solenoid?

Oh just read your post and that's the suggestion. I have an Arnott compressor. Yours may be different but the pressure sensor is on the comp discharge. The gallery is the storage tank under the right hand side.
If you've pulled the solenoid apart already go a step further and remove the plunger. Make sure it moves and I believe they have a 'pilot port' if you will that can plug up.

Does the vehicle raise if you try?
If you test the comp with the discharge disconnected you should struggle to keep your finger sealing the opening after a couple seconds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stuck exhaust solenoid?

Oh just read your post and that's the suggestion. I have an Arnott compressor. Yours may be different but the pressure sensor is on the comp discharge. The gallery is the storage tank under the right hand side.
If you've pulled the solenoid apart already go a step further and remove the plunger. Make sure it moves and I believe they have a 'pilot port' if you will that can plug up.

Does the vehicle raise if you try?
If you test the comp with the discharge disconnected you should struggle to keep your finger sealing the opening after a couple seconds.
I have the Hitachi compressor. The vehicle does not raise.

I was going to buy a filter and compressor kit, per this video (
) however at the end of video the guy explains how to test the compressor repair. So I performed the test and I was able to keep my thumb on the discharge pipe just fine for ever. I just thought he meant to say it the other way around.

This is what the video says to test after installing repair kits.

where the air is outputted if you just put your thumb over that, you should be able to stop the air coming out. Again where the air is sucked in put your thumb over it should be able to stop being sucked in, if you can do that would indicate a problem with install, if you can't then the output is good

So your saying, when I bench test the compressor, put my finger on the output pipe and within a few seconds, the pressure will prevent me from holding the air back. Correct?
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
Correct. Sounds like the piston is not sealing. A rebuild will likely solve the problem. Any idea how old the comp is?
Did you remove and inspect plungers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
i think for the pilot exhaust solenoid .Start by checking inspecting the socket check the wire if maybe it losses ground or power if everything good then try by changing the pilot exhaust solenoid and then inspect those hoses of it as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Correct. Sounds like the piston is not sealing. A rebuild will likely solve the problem. Any idea how old the comp is?
Did you remove and inspect plungers?
The compressor is has old has the vehicle (2006) 15 yrs. What plungers are you referring to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i think for the pilot exhaust solenoid .Start by checking inspecting the socket check the wire if maybe it losses ground or power if everything good then try by changing the pilot exhaust solenoid and then inspect those hoses of it as well
There is no pilot exhaust solenoid part to purchase, Land Rover is expecting you to replace the entire compressor which includes the compressor, exhaust value, solenoid and filter, all 1 unit. The only option which is the path I was starting to go down is the repair kits for the piston, filter and exhaust value. The repair kits consist of replacement seals.
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
The compressor is has old has the vehicle (2006) 15 yrs. What plungers are you referring to?
As stated, it sounds like your piston seal is worn or desiccant filters could be plugged, Based on your testing. Based on the code I would look for a sticking solenoid. In my honest opinion I wouldn't trust any codes until I was sure the comp is running correctly and I would always start with a rebuild if the motor turns.

How a solenoid works is a coil is energized creating magnetic field which pulls (in this case) a plunger up to open. If the gallery is not venting than that plunger on the compressor valve block could be stuck. Like I said though the compressor needs to be running correctly first though so you know the code is valid and there is the correct volume of air to vent in the first place. I would guess if your comp really isn't working you could pull codes again and you would get an air supply or pressuring building too slowly instead.

Please also remember I have an Arnott comp and am picturing it when describing things. You may have to extrapolate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Took apart desiccant filter , it has 3 felt filters and beads, the beads break down and create white dust. I had a some white dust in the canister, but not much. Cleaned the beads and filters, put in back together. Bench tested the compressor and this time I was not able to hold the air back with my thumb from output pipe. Cleaning the filter worked or I didn't perform the test correctly the first time. Since the actually compressor is good, it leaves replacing the exhaust value seals with repair kit and/or replacing solenoid which I can't find a OEM part or repair kit for.

Here's what it sounds like when I try to raise the vehicle with the filter muffler off. On this attempt , the loud noise only last for a few seconds, sometimes no noise, other times the noise goes on for 20 seconds. The vehicle never raises.

compressor noise
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
If you had desiccant powder in the cannister it's likely in your valve blocks too. I would just take apart the one nearest the comp and make sure the assemblies are clean. If the comp is cutting out after a few seconds it could be a high motor temp or inlet air issue. Are you constantly getting the 13-64 fault still?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you had desiccant powder in the cannister it's likely in your valve blocks too. I would just take apart the one nearest the comp and make sure the assemblies are clean. If the comp is cutting out after a few seconds it could be a high motor temp or inlet air issue. Are you constantly getting the 13-64 fault still?
Removed Exhaust Value, O-rings look fine. blew out light dust. Took apart value block nearest compressor, not much to that part, was clean. Reinstalled, the compressor runs longer, but still getting the CA13-64 error.
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
How's the relay in the rear? Could be failing? Finally I would be looking at the compressor..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How's the relay in the rear? Could be failing? Finally I would be looking at the compressor..
I decided to ditch the route of trying to rebuild the compressor part and bought a new compressor part and relay.

The new compressor filled the airbags to normal height but the compressor never shuts off, setting the vehicle height to off-road or the lowest level does not work. When I first start the car, you hear air escaping and when you set the knob to the lowest level, you hear air escaping. The knob does stays lit and the diagnostics tool reports no errors.
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
Glad to hear! Did you get another Hitachi compressor? If not you may need to flash the amk firmware?

When you say you hear air escaping is this from the exterior? Specifically a corner? Check the gallery under the right hand sill. I'd start looking at bags, the new comp can probably overcome the leak but will wear out if left over time. Obviously.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad to hear! Did you get another Hitachi compressor? If not you may need to flash the amk firmware?

When you say you hear air escaping is this from the exterior? Specifically a corner? Check the gallery under the right hand sill. I'd start looking at bags, the new comp can probably overcome the leak but will wear out if left over time. Obviously.
I purchased an aftermarket Hitachi compressor. I broke my rule, I have being replacing all parts with genuine Land Rover parts, but since the part was easy to get out, I figured if it didn't last long, it was easy to replace.

So here's the current state of issue, after I disconnected/reconnected the battery and tried both new relay and original relay, the vehicle will rise to off-road, normal and low height just fine. The knob lights work just like it used to. The only issue is the compressor will start a few minutes after the car levels to current set height and continue to run forever. So I'm at normal height and turn the knob to low height, the compressor will turn off, the air will discharge thru the brass filter, the compressor will turn on and stay on.

I rechecked for codes and received a C1A27. C1A27 is a faulty ground compressor wire. I found a thread on this forum , the guy purchased an aftermarket compressor, got code C1A27 and had to return and replace with genuine LR part.

After clearing the code and restarting the car and going up and down, shorter test time than the original test time, I did not get any fault codes, issue still persist.

Thoughts
 

·
Registered
2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC V8
Joined
·
233 Posts
Have you checked the gallery for leaks? They are known to rust through the top. Could be the issue you referenced or something not holding air. Does your diagnostic tool read live data? What is the gallery pressure while running? Faulty pressure sensor?

Maybe we swap the pistons into your old compressor? Should would the same as the replacement?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Continued to test with diagnostic tool to read live data. The compressor's Gallery Pressure at startup was 30 PSI , it rose to 225 PSI before shutting off. I assumed once the car reaches set height, compressor should shut off, it shuts off slightly after that once it reaches 225 PSI. It exhausts each time you start the vehicle and each time you change the height and about a min after reaching 225 PSI. So it does shut off and now works just fine.

Based on how the compressor works and after taking my original compressor apart, bench testing the compressor for output (Good), cleaning the brass filter, cleaning the desiccant canister (a had just a trace of white dust from Silica beads breaking down), checking the exhaust value o-rings) I think the only thing that was wrong with the part was the solenoid.

Bad solenoid will prevent the exhaust value from opening, pressure sensor will detect the state and error out with code C1A13-64 Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery. Control module will receive code and not start the compressor.

All good until the next repair.
 

·
Registered
2006 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
8 Posts
I've read through this thread but I'm not clear on what exactly fixed the issue for OP. Could you please clarify?

I have the same error (C1A13-64 (68) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure) so trying to find the issue.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top