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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
After two years of frustration, I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and converting to springs.

Replacement valve block fixed left front dropping. Now right side drops overnight. No leaks. New bags. Enough is enough.

Low mileage truck used on paved and gravel roads. Little serious off roading. Used in the mountains.

Prefer close to stock ride height. Bit higher OK. Intending to stay with stock wheel and tire sizes.

What are pros and cons of the various spring kit options.

What is considered the best all around choice?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Hawk,

First, a lowering corner is indication of a leak. So, I went a read your other thread, and see that you've attempted to address this issue for some time. I have a few questions for you...

1. You posted that you ordered new O-rings, so my next question is did you replace the o-rings at each air bag/airline connection (2 o-rings per bag)???

2. If you did replace these o-rings, did you trim a few millimeters off the air lines (clean them up)?

3. Did you try disconnecting the airline to the apparently leaking bag, and re-connect it? I had a slow leak at my LH rear bag that was solved in this manner. What I thought was a "properly seated" airline was NOT seated 100%.

The only other thing I would suggest, try replacing the EAS delay relay with a standard 12V relay (like the ABS relay). A little info on it is in this thread. It could be that you do have a valve block exhaust-related issue, and the self-leveling feature is triggering it.

After that, I'd have a look at that specific corner's height sensor.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Best all round choice is EAS. +1 on sorting it properly rather than ruining it with bits of bent thick wire.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thank you Tom and Gilbert.

I agree EAS is the best choice which has kept me at this for two years.

The challenge is the nearest Range Rover dealer is five hours away in Salt Lake and no one closer has a test book. A local mechanic with significant experience with Range Rovers and I are trying to diagnose this with the eas kicker.

The system has been up and working a few times.

The latest drama was the left front dropping with a resealed valve block and no leaks evident.

Replaced the valve block with a used one which got the system back up.

Went immediately to have the winter tires installed. Blew the right rear air bag three miles later. Suspect damage at the tire garage.

Replaced the air bag. System up and running. Brought home happily to calibrate.

Three hours later, right side down, front and back. Obviously a leak somewhere.

Next morning down to bump stops. Hard faulted.

EAS Kicker decides to stop working. Loose connection in power cord. Tried resoldering but no joy.

Hence my frustration, but you're both right, the eas is worth saving.

I suspect a leak at the new right rear air bag. Not sure that would put front and back down, but that's where we will start as soon as the eas kicker allows me to clear the fault.

I have not replaced the o-rings at the bags and will do that next.

Thank you for the suggestions. I appreciate your help here.
 

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if you are getting rid of EAS, I would go with stock land rover spring choices. the aftermarket kits were too harsh for me and I wanted to retain the long travel soft suspension seen on the SWB models. well, as much as possible. i went with green in the front and pink/green in the rear. being a bit heavier than SWB though meant i had to use a 1" spacer to bring it up in the rear. wouldnt have been a problem if i went with blue/white in the front. ride is fantastic with the stock replacement shocks. My truck now sits between off road and standard height based on EAS heights.

this is a great website to play with spring height and strength: http://rovers.red90.ca/springinfo.html
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #6
Eas Kicker rewired successfully. No faults.

Three lights on upon starting. Go out as they should a few seconds later.

Truck stays below normal reading front left clockwise, 30, 29, 28, 29. Should be 31 inches to wheel arch. Does not respond to calibration.

Does not go up when top button pressed. Light on, stays lit.

Dances a bit when bottom button pressed. Light flashing.

My guess would be a leak which drains the air tank faster than the compressor can fill it, but that's just a guess.

Next step is soapy water all around unless anyone has a better idea.

Help save this Range Rover from springs.

All suggestions greatly appreciated.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I was going to suggest the spray bottle full of soapy water but I see you have got that - I would have started there.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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try making a jumper wire with four ends and disconnect the ecu, You can now manually inflate each bag by jumping the pins in the plug that you have removed from the ecu, just remove the plastic end cover and they will be numbered. 1 is power 8 is compressor on 9 is deflate and 26 is inflate. The bag numbers are 10, 11, 27, and 28. I haven't done this in awhile so I forget which are front and rear but I think 10 and 11 are left side and 27 and 28 are right side. The jumper you made as an example you would put one pin to number 1, 8, 26, and 10 at the same time to power up and fill one bag on the left side. Then move the one lead to the others to fill them being careful on the amount of air you put in. The way to deflate is to remove the lead from 26 and plug into 9. you can unplug 8 at this time to cut power to the compressor. leave the ecu disconnected and see if your bags stay up. I have had them stay up for days at a time and that will tell you if you have a valve body ecu problem or not. Be careful not to ground the jumper wire as all four ends will be live when you plug into number 1.
 

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Hawk - Rays suggestion is solid.

I ran manual fill lines to each bag, so I could fill them up with the vehicle OFF and the EAS disabled (switch under the RH-rear corner of the passenger seat). With the switch disabled you will not get any valve block cycles or self-leveling.

Fill the bags 'til level, take measurements and let it sit.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #10
try making a jumper wire with four ends and disconnect the ecu, You can now manually inflate each bag by jumping the pins in the plug that you have removed from the ecu, just remove the plastic end cover and they will be numbered. 1 is power 8 is compressor on 9 is deflate and 26 is inflate. The bag numbers are 10, 11, 27, and 28. I haven't done this in awhile so I forget which are front and rear but I think 10 and 11 are left side and 27 and 28 are right side. The jumper you made as an example you would put one pin to number 1, 8, 26, and 10 at the same time to power up and fill one bag on the left side. Then move the one lead to the others to fill them being careful on the amount of air you put in. The way to deflate is to remove the lead from 26 and plug into 9. you can unplug 8 at this time to cut power to the compressor. leave the ecu disconnected and see if your bags stay up. I have had them stay up for days at a time and that will tell you if you have a valve body ecu problem or not. Be careful not to ground the jumper wire as all four ends will be live when you plug into number 1.
Thank you Ray.

First bag took maybe five minutes to inflate. Second went up instantly. Third took another five minutes. Fourth up instantly. Assuming this is the compressor filling the air tank. Compressor starts up immediately when power is applied.

Wheel arch height from the floor in inches after inflation for the four corners starting left front clockwise were 33, 34, 32, 32. After standing with the battery disconnected for one hour heights were 33, 29, 27, 31. Only the left front does not seem to be leaking. Right side is losing air more quickly than the left.

Reconnected everything and vehicle came up to normal heights. Pretty clear it will be back down in a few hours and restarting won't refill the air bags because the air tank will be empty.

We have checked each corner for leaks several times. No obvious leaks. Previous valve block dropped the left front. The current one seems to drop the right side. Recheck for leaks or replace the valve block?

Thanks in advance for the great help. My Range Rover thanks you also.
 

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First bag took maybe five minutes to inflate. Second went up instantly. Third took another five minutes. Fourth up instantly. Assuming this is the compressor filling the air tank. Compressor starts up immediately when power is applied.
This is very odd. It shouldn't take more than a few seconds to fill a bag, even from the bump stops. I wonder if there is some damage or restriction, that slows the fill rate AND also contributes to the leak.

Right side is losing air more quickly than the left.
Is this the side that was slow to fill?

Reconnected everything and vehicle came up to normal heights. Pretty clear it will be back down in a few hours and restarting won't refill the air bags because the air tank will be empty.
Try refilling the bags to standard height, then disable the EAS with the switch under the passenger seat. Let it sit that way and see if it still leaks.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #12
This is very odd. It shouldn't take more than a few seconds to fill a bag, even from the bump stops. I wonder if there is some damage or restriction, that slows the fill rate AND also contributes to the leak.



Is this the side that was slow to fill?




Try refilling the bags to standard height, then disable the EAS with the switch under the passenger seat. Let it sit that way and see if it still leaks.
Left front was slow to fill. Right front went up immediately.
Right rear was slow to fill. Left rear went up immediately.
Pretty sure this was because the air tank was empty.

Will try disabling using the switch, but suspect the result will be the same.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Left front was slow to fill. Right front went up immediately.
Right rear was slow to fill. Left rear went up immediately.
Was this the order that you filled them? It started off with a slow fill, then a fast fill, another slow, then fast?
 

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when I have done this I noticed that the rear bags were slower to fill. I think you should get an oring kit and replace the ones located in the valve body. They are cheap and yours are probably original.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ray,

Many thanks. O ring kit on the way.

What do you do about sticky solenoid valves?
 

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maybe try and use some spray and power them while out of the block and see if they work smooth. The system needs to be dry so make sure that your dryer is in good shape try silicone spray
 

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also I have driven my rovers around quite a bit while manually inflated I also took the delay relay out and put a standard relay in its place to stop the self leveling function. This helps keep the compressor from working as much and the truck stays up better. you have to use the delay relay if you get a fault to run diagnostics so if you do this save the relay I leave mine in the cubby box
 
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