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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone recommend an air suspension specialist in the Midlands, I live between Burton-On-Trent and Derby and have nodding dog syndrome. I have contacted Landy air in Rugely but they just want to fit a new pump which won't cure the problem at all.

Cheers

Ian
 

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Has it been calibrated? What heights are stored?
 

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If it’s dancing, then most probably a faulty ride height sensor. Simon at landyair is very knowledgeable, but it’s hard to diagnose unless it’s in front of you.
as mentioned, have you read the heights etc, if ones a lot different from the others, there’s your problem. Are your connectors in footwells clean and tight..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the heights do look odd, ranging from the left front at 108 to left rear at 119. Simon at landy air recommended changing the driver so I put the one on off my donor car and now have a fault saying FL valve stuck closed, cannot lower FL which came up when I went on a dual carriage way as it was trying to lower to motorway mode. I've always suspected the rear left sensor, and have had a new one ready for a while, as when parking on uneven ground that end seems to go the wrong way when trying to level the car out.
 

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If it is dancing it is most likely a failing drive pack, not a sensor. Having sensor with a different reading does not mean it is bad, it can also mean it has been moved from the other side and is reading from the other end of the scale. Properly calibrated this is not at all an issue. Calibration numbers NEVER match.
 

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It could just be a leaky bag or fitting. I guess dancing at multiple corners suggests the driver but if it is leaking in one bag, that corner will go up and down as the system tries to level. And that can seem like both sides are moving. I would start at the beginning, disable the auto level and sit overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So as it keeps faulting with the donor driver, I put the original one back, guess what that one faults too now. Different faults, RR valve stuck and RL signal incorrect, but the most I can drive is an hour before the dreaded beep. I can't understand why the original now faults and why just when driving along with no input to the suspension required???
 

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Another member on here - Pwood999 from memory had an issue like this, and he found that some of the pins in the female connectors to/from the driver pack (I think on the vehicle loom actually) were a little bit loose, so that when plugged into the driver pack, there was an intermittent connection at times which gave weird errors like that.

He is sometimes still active on here, so if he sees this, I'm sure he will confirm what he found and how he fixed it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did originally suspect that block but as I sprayed it with cleaner and proofer, had parked that idea. I'll have another look to see that everything is 'tight'

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++1 on the calibration being the main cause of dancing suspension

But to answer the "valve stuck" question, assuming all the valves are working, then these faults can have several causes:

  1. Not enough air pressure
  2. Bad Driver pack
  3. Bad connections between driver & solenoids (loose contacts in 12-pin connector)
The reason all these can cause the same errors is because the ECU signals the driver pack to open valves, but the vehicle heights don't change. The ECU doesn't know which fault is causing the lack of height change, so you get the same error no matter what the cause.

Number 1 is the most common cause, but easy to do the tank fill test with a door open.

Number 2 is more often dry joints where the wires enter the driver pack potting compound than actual pack faults - but nearly impossible to fix, so replacement is the only option.

Number 3 occurs more often than peeps think. I have found at least three systems like this.

Often the connector housing appears tight, but the socket contacts don't fit well over the pins. Contact cleaner will not help (although sometimes appears to sort things for a while).

The fix is to disconnect the connectors, and then remove each socket contact in turn & carefully squeeze it slightly. This ensure a better electrical connection. I use a spare pin to test each socket contact. After doing all 12, you will find the overall connector block is much tighter on assembly.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So struggled tightening up connectors, it's very difficult to tell how far to go and I crushed one so gave up and put some conductive grease on each terminal. Suspension worked fine for a couple of days but has now gone haywire. The front left is near to flat, the right is OK, but the back end is jacked up to the max and the system keeps asking for more height. I've checked and it's showing no faults, where do I go from here???
 
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