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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

First post and sorry, yes, it's an air suspension query :roll:

I have just changed all four airbags and have a diagnostic cable. I inflated each bag after fitting and all went well, except the front right, which didn't inflate. I suspect this was an issue before the replacement of the airbags.

Anyway - after around 10 minutes this bag inflated too. Nice and quickly. Took it for a test drive and all was working well with the car raising and lowering as expected, taking just a few seconds each time. Got it home and stopped it, checked again and still all good.

Parked up overnight - delighted to see she was still standing tall and proud first thing in the morning with all bags inflated. Got in the car and started to drive with the orange light flashing to get to 'standard' ride height. This went on for around 10 minutes before it stayed on and started working perfectly again, raising and lowering exactly as expected.

Any thoughts on what would do this? It just seems like the front right spring is delaying inflation for some reason. Suspicious of the valve block, though lead to believe this is not too common. Any way to check?

Thanks
 

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Two things spring to mind. Could be a sticking valve for FR bag. Has your valve block been cleaned and new ORings installed?

With the raising and lowering you may just be emptying your air tank too fast. When raising the rear always raises first and then the front. This is to ensure headlights do not blind on coming traffic. When lowering the front drops first then the rear.

Is your compressor original? You may have a compressor needing a rebuild to bring it back up to snuff.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As RRTH says, valve block sticky valve, also has the compressor been over hauled recently?
makes a lot of difference when the system is maintained, will be trouble free and very quick to
change heights.
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Nearly everything has been said.. Just my 2 cts.. did you check whether the pipes seal nicely at the spring and the valve block? Sometimes they are quite worn and don't sit quite straight

Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback

The compressor was overhauled last year (though not whilst in my ownership) and seems to work well.

I haven't done the valve block yet, but think I may do the seals on this and clean it - a sticking valve or leaking tank having to refill in the morning were my suspicions, though it actually worked rather well this morning, so leaning more towards an intermittent valve.

Pipes to the springs sealed well. Haven't touched the valve block yet so haven't confirmed this - next job though!

Thanks again!
 

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My EAS is fine currently, but just curious, is there any preventative maintenance to be done on the compressor or its just a "wait until it breaks" fitment.? I'd rather not mess around with the integrity of properly functioning systems (too much other stuff to fix), but if there's something "non-invasive" that's worth doing I would like to hear
 

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Unless you know the history of the compressor, if it has been there for more than 5 or 6 years, it's worth giving it a new seal and sleeve. A kit is readily available on eBay for around £25 and the job takes less than an hour. If the suspension drops when the car is left overnight, then there are leaks developing which put more of a strain on the compressor and need to be dealt with.
 

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The original post says no leaks over night yet the light was blinking on startup for 10 minutes. This indicates it was working on leveling itself. So I would look harder at this, sounds like you lost air from an airbag and the tank and the compressor had to fill the tank prior to filling the air spring. After it sits overnight, you can start with a door open and wait until the compressor stops running indicating the tank is full and up to pressure. Then close the door and it should quickly level since the tank is full. This should give you an idea of where your leaks are. If you start off down the road with an empty air tank and below standard ride height, it takes longer to level since it will attempt to do so with a partially filled tank.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the tank is empty the compressor will probably stop running due to overheating after a few minutes before the tank is full.
Sorry to put it so bluntly, but......Nonsense.
If yours is shutting down that quickly, you have an issue with compressor, or it's sensor. The compressor will rarely do a thermal cut out, and it needs to be VERY hot to do that.
You need to rebuild your pump. New bearings as well.
 

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It was the L322, not the P38 that has the EAS thermal warning on the dash. "AIR SUSP.INACTIVE +MAX 40 MPH." alternating messages for when the EAS overheats and has been shut down to prevent further compressor damage.

A worn out P38 compressor that is not providing enough out put will not shut down. It will run until the the thermal switch fails. Low out put resulting in lengthy running is an owners first hint their compressor needs to be rebuilt. It is also a pretty big hint you have leaks to address... otherwise the compressor would not be running all the time to keep up with the leaks. EAS systems do not just fail. There will be many hints ahead of failure of a component like the compressor.
 

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Sorry to put it so bluntly, but......Nonsense.
If yours is shutting down that quickly, you have an issue with compressor, or it's sensor. The compressor will rarely do a thermal cut out, and it needs to be VERY hot to do that.
You need to rebuild your pump. New bearings as well.
Hmm OK, my bad, read somewhere that the compressor will do a thermal cut out after a few minutes, wrong information then? My compressor has been rebuild (seals and filters) and produces the right amount of pressure and gets so hot after a few minutes that I cannot touch it.
 

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They do get hot, both from the motor and from compressing the air, but can be run for over an hour without getting hot enough to cut out. The thermal cutout is on the motor, not the actual pump, so heat generated by compression won't affect it. They are designed to fill the tank from empty anyway, it would be a bit pointless if they cut out before they had achieved what they are designed to do.
 

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They do get hot, both from the motor and from compressing the air, but can be run for over an hour without getting hot enough to cut out. The thermal cutout is on the motor, not the actual pump, so heat generated by compression won't affect it. They are designed to fill the tank from empty anyway, it would be a bit pointless if they cut out before they had achieved what they are designed to do.
Ok thanks for that info, mine cuts out very soon and I thought it was from overheating but probably because the system is ready and under pressure :)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Ok thanks for that info, mine cuts out very soon and I thought it was from overheating but probably because the system is ready and under pressure :)
Why not test it and take the "probably" out of it?
There is an EAS Sticky at the top, follow that and you'll soon find out whats wrong.

Martin
 
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