The terrain response module is a "spur" of the High Speed CAN BUS. I am reading that something that is a spur of the bus and not in the actual loop of it will not cause errors in other systems. The DR module is in the loop of the HS CAN BUS so I take that to mean that the error is from within the module or one of the components it controls and not a domino effect from another module. Just like you said.
I am hunting for a more complete picture of what components that module actually controls. Its probably few and might be something to investigate while I wait on my appointment to maybe calibrate/program the thing. I am sick of handing out $100 bills to people that don't know what they are doing.
I had a blown fuse 4 when I bought it that controlled the license plate lights. I am going to see if I have a blown fuse 37 which is the DR fuse and is only 5 amp.
I took it to one of the shops and ask them just to show me the C1A00 code in hopes I could get the full code. It was only showing them C1A00 too! This is why they have no clue, they dont have the right equipment!
Nowhere in any of the shop manuals does it mention programming or calibrating the DR module. It says that the suspension module not having a calibration code or being out of calibration could cause it but i930 shows me the calibration code and values, plus I am getting no errors from that module.
Is there any simple way to check if its any of these...
If I pay for TopiX is it going to give me the service diagnostic routine suggested here?
Before wasting any more money, I would suggest getting it diagnosed by someone with experience with this system, which might mean the dealership and a pricier diag, but with limited diagnostic equipment, there isn't much else that I can suggest, past what I already have.
My appointment for that is on the 13th. And its 70 miles away from me. I'm trying to do all I can before then. I enjoy doing it myself and learning how these electrical systems work. The TopiX is far too expensive, I wish there was RAVE like with the L322. Don't mind taking it to the shop when there is something needs to be done and I don't have time. I don't like taking it in because I lack knowledge or equipment. Its a high maintenance vehicle and I feel like If I cannot maintain it myself I have no business owning it.
You, this forum, and this thread have thought me an enormous amount already and I really appreciate it.
It may be fixed, the adaptions take a little time to get back to normal, which can cause the fault to come right back(2 trips needed for MIL activation) once it's cleared. You can reset them yourself by doing a battery hard reset.
Is clearing the codes with my i930 having the same effect as a battery hard reset?
Its easier and doesn't require resetting the clock and radio stations. I will drive it the rest of the week and see if the code keeps coming back. I had to clear it again this morning, but once again it didn't come back the entire 20 mile drive.
There is no sticky on a hard reset and no procedure given for the L320. I know in a L322 you take the battery cables off and touch them together.
Just so the procedure is clear. I shut the truck down and let it settle down for about 10 min just to make sure everything shut off. I disconnect both battery terminals. Wait another 10min and then touch the two terminals together. Since the terminals wont reach in this truck I am going to have to use a length of wire to accomplish touching them together.
"Yeah, it took a turn to spark plugs and fueling faults somewhere along the way, I'm just rolling with it."
And have been very helpful. Thanks!
I am going to post the solution to the DR faults as soon as I get the thing into the shop on the 13th. I have read two other threads on here with owners that have the same problem and neither of them end in any meaningful solution.
In the meantime I was trying to clear the fuel trim codes. I did the hard reset and after two short drives I have no light. I will see how it does after sitting all night. Hopefully I got rid of the check engine light.
The last mechanic I took it to for the DR light made these notes on the back of my paperwork, don't understand why he would have been checking the brake lamp switch, was he on to something?
In one thread the guy remedies an amber DR light with a filter change. I would venture a guess that an amber light due to a filter might very well become a red light if the filter is not addressed.
Brake light switch (and circuit) can cause a bunch of issues, however I don't see it causing a DR issue, without many other issues at least.
As to the filter, yeah, if your fluid is that bad off and the filter gets clogged, it can cause faults, but it's not monitored, so it would need to restrict pressure enough to cause the sensor to think there's an issue.
It was gone all day after the hard reset. Then it sat overnight and less than two miles into my drive to my business it comes back. So after I got done working I went out and did another hard reset. I started it, then shut down, then hooked up the scanner, cleared the codes (even though the light wasn't on), and it was happy all the way to where I was going. I was in that spot for about 3 hours and when I went back out to drive home, light comes on.
It seems that it only gets unhappy when it sits for a few hours. It seems like it would throw the code right away after a cold startup and that initial startup fuel injection but it always waits a few miles.
So two hard recents and 4 20+ mile drives and its still on. What should I check next? It seems like a coil would cause a fault code in just 1 bank and not both, I am thinking 02 sensors maybe?
It coming back on the second trip after clearing the code is normal, it's a 2 trip MIL activation, as in you could drive 300 miles on the first start up, and it wouldn't come on, but the next time you start it, and the EMS goes closed loop, it'll turn on the light.
Don't waste money on O2s.
If you're heading to the dealership for diag on the DR, I would have them pull your Adaptive Fuel Trim, both long term and sub-feedback, if they charge you for diagnosis, get their opinion, but don't get the work done just yet. Post the trims, and we can see how it's running, adn where the problem is.
This engine is not worth throwing parts at for these faults, as they can be anything from a sensor, fuel pressure, to a bad capacitor, to a tune up, to a software calibration issue, to a vacuum leak... the list goes on. The way to pinpoint it is with the adaptive fuel trims, which are only available on dealer level diag equipment.