Range Rovers Forum banner

Air Suspension calibration problems with EASunlock

2K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Richard55 
#1 ·
Hi. I am fairly new to these cars, and recently purchased a high-mileage RRC LSE 4,2 1992. It runs ok, but it has some issues, of which the suspension seems the biggest. The right hand side rear hangs quite low, and it seemed it might be a calibration issue, for the car seems to level in higher speeds.

With the car I got an old laptop with XP and Classic Range Rover EASunlock suite 10-20-08. I have not been able to find any manual for the software, but I tried calibration according to one youtube tutorial. When reading the numbers, that almost all come back as 255, or some a bit less, and this is not supposed to be this way. I tried to set the same values as in the tutorial as instructed between 150-75, but it does not work. After pressing the "write" button, the "get" button results with 255 again in almost every box. Tried several times with very little deviations.

What could be wrong? The cable is connected from the computer through the diagnostic module to the 5-pin connector behind the front seat. There is a loose switch in the same loom, but I have no idea what it is.

A manual for the software would be nice, and perhaps some kind of help with the issue at hand if there are ideas available.
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Two days ago, the right rear corner lowered even more, so that it started resting on the rubber. The next night it had lifted itself to the normal operation height, and this is a first time I encountered this.

After that some progress: The 5-pin connector I tried before was apparently not the right one - there is another in front of the seat, and via that the calibration did work, but only for a short while. I got the car to rise a bit, but that was it, and now it rests on the rubbers, and it can not be driven. The switches in the dash do not light up or do anything for that matter. All the calibration boxes now once again read 255, and the system gives about every faulcode there is. The description I got from dunk1 was useful, but I would appreciate some hints on common faults and how to eliminate them. This problem seems to be more than just a faulty sensor or burst spring, but more of a data handling problem?



Doors by the way do not light the domes, might that have something to do with this?

Product Font Screenshot Electronic device Electric blue
Slope Font Rectangle Electric blue Technology
Rectangle Line Font Art Mesh
Azure Textile Font Rectangle Electric blue


Under the seat there was a blue relay holder, that had been jumped - anything to do with this?
Hand Electrician Finger Electrical wiring Hardware programmer
 
#4 ·
I'm no expert on this but here are my thoughts:
The blue relay holder that's been jumped is for the ABS so not connected.
The loose switch in the same loom (black rocker switch?) is an EAS disable switch for use when jacking the vehicle or putting on ramps, or stopping the timed auto levelling (evry 6hrs?).It fits into a sheet steel holder towards the rear of the space under the seat and can be reached from the rear passenger compartment..
If any door is open (or the system thinks it's open, the system won't alter level (ref your interior lights not working).
Does the compressor actually work? Not sure if you've told us that? You can hear it running in the box under the sill, also hear it unloading at max pressure whern that's reached.
From the height sensor readings, I'd doubt that you're actually connected ot the car but I don't know how the RSW system works.
Don't worry about the fault codes, that all just needs clearing and taking for a drive to see what recurrs.
You need to work though the manual checking all of the fuses and expected inputs / outputs to find where the fault(s) lie. I take it you've downloaded RAVE? the Electrical Troubleshoorig Manual will walk you though all of this.
 
#5 ·
Reading all 255 means all 1's for everything like the data line is stuck high. Getting all the error codes happens in this case too since the bits for all the errors are coming back as 1. Are you sure your cable is good? I have gotten that same behavior when building my cable and not having all the connections correct.

Agree with the point above about the door switches and dome lights too. In normal operation the system won't move if it thinks a door is open and it sounds like your truck always thinks a door or the tailgate is open so it turns the dome lights back off after a timeout. This is the easiest thing to start with before replacing any sensors or more complex items.

One more important thing since there was confusion about the connectors. The 5 pin male connector for the EAS diagnostics has a female connector with a single wire plugged into it during normal operation. You would have had to unplug this to connect to your debug cable. I'm mentioning it because if it is not plugged in or missing and you are not connected to the diagnostic tools the system will also not move.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top