Joined
·
63 Posts
TLDR put air strut back on and now copper fitting or pipe is leaking. Any information about the thread type, proper sealant (PTFE, pipe dope, etc) is appreciated.
I was basically all wrapped to go on a nice multi-day jaunt this weekend. So of course I thought let me up the risk and install the LK8 bump stop extensions I got (hoping to remove rear rub while climbing in addition to safety). I got the first one on and then realized I have the LR3 kit. It seems like an element of urban legend (I can't find the listing anywhere on their site or google) but apparently there is a RRS specific one that has longer front limit straps that should be bolted to an unused hole in the control arm.
So I called them and unfortunately they are waiting for re-supply. So I disassembled the strut and put it back without the bump stop. I left the air line connector in place and tightened down the copper fitting when I got it up into the wheel well (didn't realize you can force situate the line into the fitting and don't need to screw lock it, I should really pay better attention to the fine details of these videos).
The rear wheels inflate but neither of the front do (I assume this is because the block opens to both at once for this fill from deflate). I'm only hearing leaking (and feeling it) coming upward from the strut. So I assume either the copper fitting or line at the fitting aren't holding a seal. I don't know of a good way to exercise the airline with the strut unbolted to know the exact source of the leak. Can it be done with test valve inflation while the car is deflated in IIDTool? I got the copper fitting finger tight while it was up there but didn't want to overtighten it and didn't have a ton of room anyhow so said yolo.
Right now the setup is original line -> quick connect -> 2 inch line -> copper fitting -> air strut
After the initial I definitely got the copper fitting to turn more using a finger from each hand. Still didn't plug the leak but it seemed like it increased the pitch of the air leak, which is an encouraging sign. I'm a bit hesitant to keep turning the copper fitting up there since I don't want to ruin it, though are my hands really that powerful?
I'm going to pull the strut then try to pull the 2 inch line off the quick connect (didn't wanna give before), then use a new line or cut the old one, and set it and the fitting into the strut then into the quick connect when mounting.
I was basically all wrapped to go on a nice multi-day jaunt this weekend. So of course I thought let me up the risk and install the LK8 bump stop extensions I got (hoping to remove rear rub while climbing in addition to safety). I got the first one on and then realized I have the LR3 kit. It seems like an element of urban legend (I can't find the listing anywhere on their site or google) but apparently there is a RRS specific one that has longer front limit straps that should be bolted to an unused hole in the control arm.
So I called them and unfortunately they are waiting for re-supply. So I disassembled the strut and put it back without the bump stop. I left the air line connector in place and tightened down the copper fitting when I got it up into the wheel well (didn't realize you can force situate the line into the fitting and don't need to screw lock it, I should really pay better attention to the fine details of these videos).
The rear wheels inflate but neither of the front do (I assume this is because the block opens to both at once for this fill from deflate). I'm only hearing leaking (and feeling it) coming upward from the strut. So I assume either the copper fitting or line at the fitting aren't holding a seal. I don't know of a good way to exercise the airline with the strut unbolted to know the exact source of the leak. Can it be done with test valve inflation while the car is deflated in IIDTool? I got the copper fitting finger tight while it was up there but didn't want to overtighten it and didn't have a ton of room anyhow so said yolo.
Right now the setup is original line -> quick connect -> 2 inch line -> copper fitting -> air strut
After the initial I definitely got the copper fitting to turn more using a finger from each hand. Still didn't plug the leak but it seemed like it increased the pitch of the air leak, which is an encouraging sign. I'm a bit hesitant to keep turning the copper fitting up there since I don't want to ruin it, though are my hands really that powerful?
I'm going to pull the strut then try to pull the 2 inch line off the quick connect (didn't wanna give before), then use a new line or cut the old one, and set it and the fitting into the strut then into the quick connect when mounting.