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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Im near Truckee, CA right now on vacation. I was doing some off roading, nothing super heavy, some decently rough roads. The bottom bellow of the air spring broke right off!! Im kind of at a loss of what to do right now. Reno isnt too far, but not any land rover mechanics near by. Im curious about the Arnott springs. Would I be able to replace just one spring? One spring Arnott and the rest keep OEM for now, os that even possible? Are the Arnotts really better? The bottom that broke, is plastic, Arnotts look like an alloy. Is this something that a normal mechanic, in Truckee can do? Im attaching pics of the bellow part that broke off. Seems like straight forward stuff as far as installation goes, but what about calibrating? Are proprietary tools needed? The rear end is sagging waaaay low. Im getting EAS error. Only way I can take pics right now is with my laptop webcam. So bear with me there, I think it gets the idea across tho. Is it normal for these to break like this? Less than 10k miles on the new springs, and valve block. Previous owner did it just over a year ago. I have the receipt back home. I am most grateful to anyone who can help get this p38 back on the road. Is converting to Arnott really where its at? Could it be done by plain jane shop in Truckee? Do the Arnott spring change any of the function of the suspension, or decrease safety?

Thanks in advance,
Steve
 

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Any local mechanic will be able to replace the spring. But i am guessing you have an eas fault which will need to be cleared before normal operation.
I'm guessing you don't have easunlock on your laptop and the lead to connect to the obd?

Changing a spring does not need calibration.

Saying that i once had a spring go in mine, which fell onto bump stops until i got it home 30 miles.
Popped in new spring and once turned back on everything went up without any errors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
keithdixon said:
Any local mechanic will be able to replace the spring. But i am guessing you have an eas fault which will need to be cleared before normal operation.
I'm guessing you don't have easunlock on your laptop and the lead to connect to the obd?

Changing a spring does not need calibration.

Saying that i once had a spring go in mine, which fell onto bump stops until i got it home 30 miles.
Popped in new spring and once turned back on everything went up without any errors.
No, I dont. Can the software be downloaded? What about the lead, can it be had at electronics, or a automotive store? Could I replace it with the cheaper arnott spring, or do I have to keep them all OEM(dunlop?) Possible to have 3 dunlops, and one arnott? I cant believe it broke, road was rough but not real bad. My buddies RWD conversion van made it. The rover looked like a wuss today.
 

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Apparently, the Arnott Gen 2 springs are interchangeable with the OEM, as the spring rates are similar. The Arnott looks to be a better product to me.

Therefore, you could just change one spring and be ok.

The aluminium you have seen belongs to the Gen 3 Arnott spring which I do not think you can fit to the same axle as the OEM as they behave differently.

As for fitting, my indy changed all four OEM to Gen 2 in two hours, including a height check. You can read here of it being done in an hour!

Everybody says that you can do it yourself - you could, I think, "supervise" a mechanic to do it for you.....

Good luck.
 

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By the time you have got hold of the USB to serial cable, OBD cable, software, and checked that your PC has .NET framework 3.5, it might pay to go to the dealer (sorry to swear) to get the EAS reset.

Also, I'm pretty sure that you can pump up the suspension by using jumpers so that at least you are mobile even with the eas warnings going.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info guys!! I guess at this point, question is do I go for just replacing the rear with arnott(says they only sell pairs) gen 2's, or spend a little extra dough, and get the gen 3's all around. Hmmm. Is all I need for the gen 3's is the front, and rears, or is there more to it than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SpiggyTopes said:
By the time you have got hold of the USB to serial cable, OBD cable, software, and checked that your PC has .NET framework 3.5, it might pay to go to the dealer (sorry to swear) to get the EAS reset.

Also, I'm pretty sure that you can pump up the suspension by using jumpers so that at least you are mobile even with the eas warnings going.
Hmmm, downloaded the software...its GNU!! Sweet!! USB to serial cable, shouldnt be too hard, OBD cable could be difficult, then again, Ill probably mail order the springs, so why not cables? .net framework....Im sure I can install, and configure it. Then again, might be easier to just go to the dealer, have em do it. As long as driving it there is safe. Its about 40 miles. Reno, NV. Found 2 dealers there actually. LOL
 

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I bought Gen 2's, against my instincts which were to go for Gen 3.

If you get Gen 2s, you keep your old ones as spares.

I was told not to mix Gen 3 with Gen 2 or oem .....

One solid reason for Gen 3 is if you are going to raise the height a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After seeing how this one went, and the materials its made out of, I dont know how the factory would put this garbage on. Not like it was old, and brittle or anything. Less than 10k miloes!!! Ive romped my old 97 p38 harder than this. Im leaning toward goin gen 3 all around, just because of the alloy materials, either way its lifetime warranty, but Id rather it never broke, than have to claim a warranty, especially, if Im in the middle of no where running the rubicon or something. I think your really paying for the dunlop name, which in this case seems inferior.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
q-rover said:
Could this help?
My geography of the US isn't that good by the way.
Hmmm, Im in need of the rear springs, the buddy box could be handy, then again, I couldnt see the dealer being more than an hour labor to reset it. Im guessing labor would be $120 USD/ hour.
SpiggyTopes: can you tell me more about the "jumper" to raise the suspension up, in order to get it to the dealer, if thats the route I go?
 

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UberDub said:
q-rover said:
Could this help?
My geography of the US isn't that good by the way.
Hmmm, Im in need of the rear springs, the buddy box could be handy, then again, I couldnt see the dealer being more than an hour labor to reset it. Im guessing labor would be $120 USD/ hour.
SpiggyTopes: can you tell me more about the "jumper" to raise the suspension up, in order to get it to the dealer, if thats the route I go?
Hmm ... I hope I'm not misleading you here.

I'm not sure of the procedure exactly, but I think you jumper pins in the eas ecu under the seat in order to run the compressor. But, there is more to it than that, as you have to, I think, isolate the ecu to stop it trying to control the system, so that, in effect, you have just inflated the bags to a certain height and sealed them like inflating a tyre.

Go to the main site (above this one) and have a look at get you home procedures, I'm pretty sure there are pictures there.

And / or, if you post with EAS in the message title, Dennis is sure to pitch in to help.

Sorry I can't be more help.
 

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UberDub said:
After seeing how this one went, and the materials its made out of, I dont know how the factory would put this garbage on. Not like it was old, and brittle or anything. Less than 10k miloes!!! Ive romped my old 97 p38 harder than this. Im leaning toward goin gen 3 all around, just because of the alloy materials, either way its lifetime warranty, but Id rather it never broke, than have to claim a warranty, especially, if Im in the middle of no where running the rubicon or something. I think your really paying for the dunlop name, which in this case seems inferior.
Exactly - this is the problem with Gen 3 - nice warranty, but you are forced to replace like with like if one fails.

I still think I'll get a set tho'!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You guys have been so much help. I cant thank you enough. Im getting pretty sleepy, its 310 AM over here. Im starting to get a good idea of what needs to be done. Ill be putting some more research in in the morning. Anyone with any tips or help, or suggestions, advice, etc. Please chime in. I guess, having spares would be nice, but man those gen 3's are lookin beefy. I dont think that alloy would fail like this poly(?) plastic junk. Has anyone ever had a gen 3 fail? Definitely want to look more into that buddy box, it might turn out cheaper, than drive 40 miles and having it reset. Ill get details tomorrow. My friend lives here, and has referred me to a mech in town. He should have the necessary facilities, and know how. Turning in for now.

Thanks guys.
 

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You can mix the GenIII and II/standard on an axle, for a bit. If you only want to pay labor to do one, that's fine, it will not immediately cause a wreck, but it may feel a bit unbalnced, don't drive crazy. you can mix front/back indefinately.


As you said, it's not hard to remove/replace, so just do the pair.

The pigtails method is outlined here:

http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=27

Keep your old springs as spares, especially if you go offroad. Even with a warranty, you still have down time. I destroyed one front and one rear this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
shupack said:
You can mix the GenIII and II/standard on an axle, for a bit. If you only want to pay labor to do one, that's fine, it will not immediately cause a wreck, but it may feel a bit unbalnced, don't drive crazy. you can mix front/back indefinately.


As you said, it's not hard to remove/replace, so just do the pair.

The pigtails method is outlined here:

http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=27

Keep your old springs as spares, especially if you go offroad. Even with a warranty, you still have down time. I destroyed one front and one rear this summer.
I just want to make sure I read you right. Are you saying I could buy just the rear gen 3's for now? Id like to keep my front OEM for now, they have low miles. Would it ride just fine?
 

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We put gen III's on the rear of ours and I would say that the rangie loves them. However the tops of them are still plastic from memory so don't expect aluminum on top. I assume the bottom is most likely to break so it likely should not be an issue.
 
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I also have Gen III's on just the rear and have had no problems for the past 2 years. Even with them just being on the rear, ive noticed a vast improvement in ride and handling.
 
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