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I am having trouble with my remote central locking system on my '96 HSE and was wondering if anyone has installed one of those generic remote central locking kits. Maybe they won't work because there is a system in place already but I thought asking here might save some time and headaches.
Thanks
 

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What if you were to leave everything in place and have the new remote receiver and a single server activate the existing drivers side lock button up and down ?

I wonder if this could be a really easy and cheap solution to the remote fob matched to BECM issue. There is no cheap or second hand solution to that problem.
 

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Possible, if you can lock / unlock using the lock button using your finger then it can be automated with an aftermarket kit.

Is your fob is not matched to your becm?
if so the cost here is about £150 for a new fob from the dealer what's the cost with getting a new fob over there?
 

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Apologies if we are getting to far from the original question.

Hi Keith, no through a combination of prising, soldering, blood swear and tears both my fobs are working.

The difficulties in the future for any of us are that the Dealer fob’s are expensive – around $500 over here each and there is no guarantee they will work. If you order it you pay for it, absolutely no responsibility for it working taken by the dealer.

There are a bunch of reasons that they won’t work:
1) If the BECM has been swapped out and the dealer doing the job did not bother to update the records (ask Ron how he knows)
2) Similar problem for a swapped out tumbler somewhere in the car’s history
3) These cars are getting on and the tumbler’s wear so the cut key even if it is correct may or may not actually turn the ignition
4) You can only have one of each type of key, if you have a working fob, which one is it so you order the new one ? Both my fob’s are identical so if one broke would I order the primary or secondary knowing if I guess wrong I’ve wasted $500.

Next time I am faced with this issue I’ll be looking for a simple cheap solution over the dealer’s answer.
 

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keithdixon said:
Possible, if you can lock / unlock using the lock button using your finger then it can be automated with an aftermarket kit.

that's actually a very good idea, I think.
 

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shupack said:
keithdixon said:
Possible, if you can lock / unlock using the lock button using your finger then it can be automated with an aftermarket kit.

that's actually a very good idea, I think.
You will only have "sill locking".Ie no alarm activation.But other than that should work :shhh:
 

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after market kits are simple on the rangie. I had one untill a month ago when my BECM died and for the first time in 6 years I have a factory remote (came with the new becm) :)

before that, I bought a cheap $50 kit with 4 actuators and a remote kit.

I simply cut into the motor driver wires for the drivers lock assembly, so the aftermarket kit was directly driving the locking solenoid/actuator on the drivers door, the switches in the mech then tell the becm the car has been sill locked and in turn it locks or unlocks the rest of the car.

In order to arm the alarm, a simple relay is used, again it piggy backs the solenoid/actuator, simply to make contact between two wires piggy backed to the drivers door lock key switch. Hence the after market kit fools the car into thinking its been locked or unlocked by the key.

Worked fine for me for 6 years.

the place who fitted my BECM wouldnt have a bar of it and pulled it out.
 

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So, it can be done right?

Thanks
 

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tomcatrr said:
So, it can be done right?

Thanks
yep.

but only to the extent of the car being locked by key. You can still super lock it etc depending on your remote kit, as I had one which would lock as many times as I pressed the lock button etc. Also my kit would hold the solenoid as long as you help the remote button down, never burnt out the central locking motor and was good for closing windows etc with the lazy locking feature.
 

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John, any chance you still have the wiring info from your install. At present I am one of the fobless masses and $40 for a crimestoppers keyless entry kit sounds much better and cheaper than a trip to the dealers.

thanks

Bob

jsp said:
tomcatrr said:
So, it can be done right?

Thanks
yep.

but only to the extent of the car being locked by key. You can still super lock it etc depending on your remote kit, as I had one which would lock as many times as I pressed the lock button etc. Also my kit would hold the solenoid as long as you help the remote button down, never burnt out the central locking motor and was good for closing windows etc with the lazy locking feature.
 

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use at your own risk and a bit of common sense, just from memory sitting here at my desk.

took 12 volts from one of the fatter wires going into the door outstation, which was a permanent 12v.
cut the lock motor wires and connected them to the after market kit, pins 1 and 4 in the below pic:



also cut the superlock motor out, as I always wanted to be able to open the drivers door with a key no matter what, and around here if they can't unlock a car with a screw driver in the lock they just put a rock through the window anyway

then put a relay across the lock motor wires so when ever the central locking motor locked or unlocked the door, it closed the contacts on the relay. This relays contacts where then connected to pin 2 on each connector in the above picture, the key switch. This had the effect of the BECM thinking the key switch was being activated every time the lock mech was locked or unlocked by the aftermarket remote system driving the door lock motor, thus arming or disarming the alarm as the BECM thinks the car is being accessed by a key in the drivers door. Also the position switch, or CDL switch, listed as switch 1 in the above picture, would change state when the lock was locked/unlocked and thus tell the BECM to lock or unlock all the other doors in the car.

pretty simple all up. never burnt out a lock motor, and having the superlock motor disconnected saved me allot of grief, 6 years later when the BECM went into lockdown and had to be replaced...the unit I had was about the size of a small pack of smokes and I just stuffed it inside the door behind the larger speaker and duct taped it in.

if I had the time and motivation I would put a switch in the side of the drivers door to disable locking of the tailgate, so if my BECM died again I wouldn't have to trawl through the wiring in the drivers door to hotwire the tailgate to get my fridge and tools out!

Only things to note is try this at your own peril, the wiring diagram above might be different on the newer or older lock mech plugs as there was two variations as far as I am aware, and I accept no responsibility for flat batteries fried wiring looms buggered BECMs etc, or for anything at all for that matter :shock: :D :D

gratuitous picture placement.

 

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John, thanks for the info. I just had a look at the crimestopper keyless entry manual and it has 2 built in relays for handling reverse polarity locks, this should isolate it from the BECM allowing the BECM to remain hooked up. This would mean sill and slam locking from the passenger door would still lock the drivers side. Leaving the BECM hooked up probably means that the way you hooked up a relay to fake switch 2 might not work correctly, but the crimestopper has a horn chirp neg output for lock/unlock which you could use to control the relay instead. Think I'm going to check ePay and try and find one cheap to experiment with.

thanks

Bob
 

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roberth58 said:
John, thanks for the info. I just had a look at the crimestopper keyless entry manual and it has 2 built in relays for handling reverse polarity locks, this should isolate it from the BECM allowing the BECM to remain hooked up. This would mean sill and slam locking from the passenger door would still lock the drivers side. Leaving the BECM hooked up probably means that the way you hooked up a relay to fake switch 2 might not work correctly, but the crimestopper has a horn chirp neg output for lock/unlock which you could use to control the relay instead. Think I'm going to check ePay and try and find one cheap to experiment with.

thanks

Bob
ahhhhh I am confused easily! "it has 2 built in relays for handling reverse polarity locks, this should isolate it from the BECM" exactly what does that entail? does it disconnect the normal wiring, then run the lock motor, then reconnect the original wiring, or are you looking at putting on a secondary actuator to pull a rod to lock/unlock the door?

Just out of curiosity.

Also the only reason I ended up putting a relay on to trip the key switch is I had a habit of locking the car with the remote, then the misses would shut her door, and this automatically armed the alarm, which would then go off when I unlocked the drivers door with my remote and opened it, as at that time the key switch wasn't being triggered and the becm thought someone had pried the door open.
 

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John, the crimestopper rke has 2 5pin relays built in. Cut the wires between outstation and motor, wire motor to terminal 30 on both relays, constant 12V on terminals 87(NO), outstation wires hooked to terminals 87a(NC). when lock button on remote is pressed 12V goes from 87 to 30 on lock relay, thru motor and completes the circuit thru 87a on unlock relay. Unlock button works in reverse. Since the BECM is connected thru terminals 87a (normally closed) it is completely isolated from the addon and sill locking,slam locking and original fob will all work as normal. Of course this whole thing only works if the BECM leaves the 2 wires grounded when not locking/unlocking, if its an open circuit then I'll have to wire it like yours and leave the BECM unconnected from the drivers door. Hopefully the preceding was as clear as mud :D

Bob

jsp said:
ahhhhh I am confused easily! "it has 2 built in relays for handling reverse polarity locks, this should isolate it from the BECM" exactly what does that entail? does it disconnect the normal wiring, then run the lock motor, then reconnect the original wiring, or are you looking at putting on a secondary actuator to pull a rod to lock/unlock the door?

Just out of curiosity.

Also the only reason I ended up putting a relay on to trip the key switch is I had a habit of locking the car with the remote, then the misses would shut her door, and this automatically armed the alarm, which would then go off when I unlocked the drivers door with my remote and opened it, as at that time the key switch wasn't being triggered and the becm thought someone had pried the door open.
 

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Thanks John I have sucessfully followed your instuctions and everything works great!
Doors lock,indicators flash, lazy locking works and car is alarmed! Brilliant!
Cheers Reg.....:thumb:
 

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What was the model of crime stopper kit that you used , i am one of those who have no key fobs and have been using a key only for the last 3 years .
 

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Yes, gents! Could you provide the remote Brand/Model number as I would like to recreate your outcome. Thanks.
 

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I have installed this one : RightClick keyless entry system model KE669HC . Have had it now for 6 months no problems , also put in two relays which go to ground to activate alarm system . The reason i did this is because if you locked it with key then unlocked with remote the car thought there was a forced entry and the alarm would go off.
 
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