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Discussion Starter #1
On previous cars, I had used places like 1AAuto for small parts with no issues.

My OEM compressor is spitting out a constant C1A13 code these days and I'm too chickensh*t to rebuild the exhaust valve.

I was about to bite the bullet on the Lucky8 compressor for $~360, but then stumbled upon the 1AAuto one for $267.


Has anyone had any experience with this compressor or other aftermarket ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
went ahead and ordered the 1AAuto one - will report back after I slap it on and put some miles on it
 

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went ahead and ordered the 1AAuto one - will report back after I slap it on and put some miles on it
I have used the cheap Aftermarket Hitachi's (not proud to say it) they are severely hit or miss. Usually most of them have the wrong connector and have to be rewired into the old harness off the bad compressor. (easily done) I have also had a couple fail really quickly. So a Roll of the Dice you might get one that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have used the cheap Aftermarket Hitachi's (not proud to say it) they are severely hit or miss. Usually most of them have the wrong connector and have to be rewired into the old harness off the bad compressor. (easily done) I have also had a couple fail really quickly. So a Roll of the Dice you might get one that works.
So far, so good with the 1AAuto one. The fitment was spot on, no louder than the OEM one, didn’t have to modify the harness either. Raised and lowered the rangie a few times with no codes. Sprayed some soapy water on parts of it, no leaks. Will report back periodically.
 

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So far, so good with the 1AAuto one. The fitment was spot on, no louder than the OEM one, didn’t have to modify the harness either. Raised and lowered the rangie a few times with no codes. Sprayed some soapy water on parts of it, no leaks. Will report back periodically.
Hello - Can I get an update on the aftermarket compressor you installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello - Can I get an update on the aftermarket compressor you installed?
400ish miles - no issues. it runs for about 15-20 seconds upon a cold start-up. i raised and lowered it yesterday just for fun - it seems to go up faster than before.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
800 mile update: sadly im getting an intermittent c1a13 code again, sometimes amber, sometimes red/amber (max speed 30mph warning). im leaning towards the culprit not being the compressor, but something with the lines themselves. this is the third compressor ive had on it in the past year.

i read about "flushing the lines" - but couldn't find a good DIY for it. i might just throw in the towel and take it to a LR shop to further diagnose.
 

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800 mile update: sadly im getting an intermittent c1a13 code again, sometimes amber, sometimes red/amber (max speed 30mph warning). im leaning towards the culprit not being the compressor, but something with the lines themselves. this is the third compressor ive had on it in the past year.

i read about "flushing the lines" - but couldn't find a good DIY for it. i might just throw in the towel and take it to a LR shop to further diagnose.
Clearing the lines is no big deal - just disconnect at each end and blow compressed air through.

While i suspect you current issues are to do with the cheap aftermarket compressor it of course may not be. I would pull the exhaust valve out of the compressor and ensure there is no crud stopping it from closing. This "crud" could be coming from dirt in the lines left over from you previous compressor failures - it is a white power. So depressurise the system - just crack a pipe near the central valve block between the compressor and air tank and wait until the hiss stops. Note the plumbing on the central valve block and undo the pipes and electrical connectors and take the valve block out and take out the solenoids - and clean everything up with compressed air - carefully. Clear any white powder.

Blow all the pipes out and reassemble - with the compressor out take the exhaust valve out and clean up with compressed air.

Reassemble and run everything making sure there are no leaks.

if the fault comes back then you most like have an issue with the compressor. My exhaust valve was being held open by crud which I dislodged by tapping with a rubber mallet as my valve was corroded in and the housing broke off (now sealed with super glue but works fine) and I could not take out the exhaust valve without drilling it out.

However the fact that the "new" compressor rang for a few months before faulting indicates there is no crud in the system and it would have faulted soon after installation. The fault code indicates the exhaust valve so just replace it.

The above options would seem to cover aspects you have concerns about but firstlook at the exhaust valve.

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Clearing the lines is no big deal - just disconnect at each end and blow compressed air through.

While i suspect you current issues are to do with the cheap aftermarket compressor it of course may not be. I would pull the exhaust valve out of the compressor and ensure there is no crud stopping it from closing. This "crud" could be coming from dirt in the lines left over from you previous compressor failures - it is a white power. So depressurise the system - just crack a pipe near the central valve block between the compressor and air tank and wait until the hiss stops. Note the plumbing on the central valve block and undo the pipes and electrical connectors and take the valve block out and take out the solenoids - and clean everything up with compressed air - carefully. Clear any white powder.

Blow all the pipes out and reassemble - with the compressor out take the exhaust valve out and clean up with compressed air.

Reassemble and run everything making sure there are no leaks.

if the fault comes back then you most like have an issue with the compressor. My exhaust valve was being held open by crud which I dislodged by tapping with a rubber mallet as my valve was corroded in and the housing broke off (now sealed with super glue but works fine) and I could not take out the exhaust valve without drilling it out.

However the fact that the "new" compressor rang for a few months before faulting indicates there is no crud in the system and it would have faulted soon after installation. The fault code indicates the exhaust valve so just replace it.

The above options would seem to cover aspects you have concerns about but firstlook at the exhaust valve.

Garry
Hi Garry - thanks for the suggestions. I was in a pinch as I wanted to take my RRS to an offroad rover rally this past weekend. I stopped by a reputable independent rover shop and they didn't even want to diagnose it further - just saying that they recommend putting in an AMK compressor. I politely declined. Instead, I took the cover off the compressor and gave the valve area a few good whacks with a plastic punch. This cleared the code for literally 2 full days of rough offroading (often raising the suspension). No issues at all - even the 2-hour journey to the event and back - had no suspension faults. From today, the darn code is back. I've contacted 1AAuto as the part is under warranty. We'll see what they say.
 

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Ok, here’s another great example and reason I went with the AB coil spring conversion kit.....I do not own a plastic punch, and do not want to buy one. My weekend, I loaded the Sport Saturday night with Traeger tailgate grill, tables, chairs, food, cooler (full of good stuff)....7:30am Sunday morning, ignition and take off for 1hr 45min drive to Charlotte (Panthers) — No valve banging, no air leaks, no issues ——— I did have to drive over a curb and grassy area to get to tailgate area...The Sport and coils handled the challenge beautifully, with no belly hang up or trouble.

Come on folks — chill and laugh, I know you want to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, here’s another great example and reason I went with the AB coil spring conversion kit.....I do not own a plastic punch, and do not want to buy one. My weekend, I loaded the Sport Saturday night with Traeger tailgate grill, tables, chairs, food, cooler (full of good stuff)....7:30am Sunday morning, ignition and take off for 1hr 45min drive to Charlotte (Panthers) — No valve banging, no air leaks, no issues ——— I did have to drive over a curb and grassy area to get to tailgate area...The Sport and coils handled the challenge beautifully, with no belly hang up or trouble.

Come on folks — chill and laugh, I know you want to.
Man i hear that - i've been going back and forth with ditching the air suspension for AB 2" coils. i know my OEM 160k shocks are worn out. this coupled with my on/off again air suspension issues are heavily making me think about going coils. did you go with the 2" or normal ride height version?
 

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I went with the normal ride height - I’m pleasantly surprised the ride quality and handling is excellent. I appreciate there are purist on here that are against dumping the EAS, and yes the raising and lowering feature is fun, but I’m not a DIY guy, and simply don’t want the hassle, or risk of hassle.
 

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My weekend, I loaded the Sport Saturday night with Traeger tailgate grill, tables, chairs, food, cooler (full of good stuff)....7:30am Sunday morning, ignition and take off for 1hr 45min drive to Charlotte (Panthers) — No valve banging, no air leaks, no issues ——— I did have to drive over a curb and grassy area to get to tailgate area...The Sport and coils handled the challenge beautifully, with no belly hang up or trouble.
My weekend, I loaded the 91yo mother into the Sport lowered to access height, and went out for dinner - granny in and out no issue at the lowered height. ....7:30am Sunday morning, headed off from Mum's (note correct english is Mum not Mom ;)) for my 500km drive back home - set the suspension at 20mm below onroad height for freeway speeds. Public holiday here on Monday so headed into the mountains for some offroading in the National Park - climbing hills, fording rivers with height changes from onroad to super-extended and then back home — No valve banging, no air leaks, no issues ——— I did have to drive over a curb and grassy area to get into my drive...The Sport and air suspension handled the challenge beautifully, with no belly hang up or trouble. :cool:

Garry
 

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My weekend, I loaded the 91yo mother into the Sport lowered to access height, and went out for dinner - granny in and out no issue at the lowered height. ....7:30am Sunday morning, headed off from Mum's (note correct english is Mum not Mom ;)) for my 500km drive back home - set the suspension at 20mm below onroad height for freeway speeds. Public holiday here on Monday so headed into the mountains for some offroading in the National Park - climbing hills, fording rivers with height changes from onroad to super-extended and then back home — No valve banging, no air leaks, no issues ——— I did have to drive over a curb and grassy area to get into my drive...The Sport and air suspension handled the challenge beautifully, with no belly hang up or trouble. :cool:

Garry
Garry - You’re a good man! I really like your spunk and wit....

My mom (Note: Correct North Carolina Southern English is mom, not mum - Not sure if it was big news down your way, so brace yourself—We kicked the “English”, and I assume you mean the Queens English - The British, out of these here parts a number of years back, committed high treason, took over the area and are a run’in it ourselves, doin just fine) too is 91, be very thankful you can still get her out and about - up until about a year ago my mom could still get out, but no longer is that something we can enjoy, so please make the most of it!! BUT - when she was still able to get out, she demanded to be driven in her 2012 Cadillac CTS Luxury - I could pull up in my E Class MB, my oldest son in his new C Class MB, my niece in her new Mazda SUV.....Nope! “Here, take my keys, we are taking my car, it needs to be driven”, she’d say with a firm tone....You don’t argue or challenge your mom, at least not my mom - she’s still of sound mind and could change her will—ha ha.

You are one of the purists I referenced, and I totally respect you position and especially your passion for the brand — but for me, and my current Sport, having the coil spring conversion makes me as happy as a pig in the mud - and if I get stuck in said mud, the Sport will still get me out.

Y’all got pigs where you are? You ever seen ‘em rootin around in the mud? They’re happy! That’s me!

Cheers my friend...and cheers to all our “mums!” Yes I said mums, that’s for Garry and the others on this site that speak proper English.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
alright - ill give it one more try with more effort - 1AAuto got back to me thinking that the issue is with the airlines or valve block being crudded up. ill take the compressor out (this literally takes me 15 minutes now that i've done it so many times). ill take out the exhaust valve bolt to inspect and clean that out (with it being new, i hope that it doesn't shear off). i'll pull the center valve block and inspect for white powder, clean out the lines that go from the compressor to that valve block. will report back after all that is done.
 
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