[RRDave]

After researching almost every warranty company out there, I finally bought a Ford ESP.

48K miles/48 months of Premium care cost around $2,500. The key difference here is the deductible is $100 per visit not per repair. Ford does not cap the labor rate.

I had 2 ball joints and a control arm replaced today. The dealer got paid a lower price for the parts but full rate for the labor, I paid the $100 deductible.

A positive experience.

If anyone would like the contact where to buy, please PM me.

 

[linuxfreakus]

Were the parts broken, or just "normal wear and tear"? I've not had a warranty myself, and still happy with that decision, but I have heard of people having LOTS of trouble getting parts covered unless they were obviously done/broken. Waiting until stuff breaks is not how I like to operate.

 

[RRDave]

The Rover was still steering so I supposed they were not broken. They were making noise.

 

[rzundel]

I just found out from the dealer that if I buy the extended warranty before my factory warranty expires that I forfeit any remaining time on my factory warranty. In other words, I am planning to buy out my RR this month at end of lease. I still have 18 months of factory warranty on the vehicle. They are encouraging to buy the 4 year/100000 extended warranty buy by doing so, I give up 18 mos of factory warranty. Their claim is that it will cost more on the extended warranty the longer I wait.

Does that sound right?

 

[RRDave]

If you have double coverage so what? You should not have to give up your factory.

Double check with the warranty guy and if you get the same answer call around to a couple of other dealers.

 

[RattleItHome]

I just found out from the dealer that if I buy the extended warranty before my factory warranty expires that I forfeit any remaining time on my factory warranty. In other words, I am planning to buy out my RR this month at end of lease. I still have 18 months of factory warranty on the vehicle. They are encouraging to buy the 4 year/100000 extended warranty buy by doing so, I give up 18 mos of factory warranty. Their claim is that it will cost more on the extended warranty the longer I wait.

Does that sound right?

No, that doesn't sound right. An extended warranty kicks in after ther factory warranty expires. I agree that the price of the extended warranty goes up when a vehicle ages and gains more miles, but the factory warranty remains in tact. A 4 year/100000k extended warranty would warranty your car until it reaches 100000k, or for 4 years after the factory warranty expites, which ever comes first.

 

[rzundel]

My dealer said specifically that as soon as I sign the extended warranty papers, the factory warranty is superceded by the new extended warranty. You forfeit any remaining factory warranty. I was told that the only reason to do it now is that it is cheaper and that extended warranties go up in price over time. I would love to find out that this is wrong. Does anyone here have any experience with this?

 

[drdread]

Correction fellows.

If you buy the warranty that LR offers, it will kick in immediately, NOT after factory.
It may not make sense or be right, but that is what happens. I just bought it, and argued w/ 5 LR dealers who all told me the same thing

SO weigh cost of waiting and paying more (whatever that is- I think it's just a pressured sales gimmick) vs having 18 mos less of extended warranty and essentially wasted double coverage for the 18mos.

I bit the bullet and got mine the month before factory expired, that way I had a full 4yrs (100k)

 

[RattleItHome]

So what happens when you buy a 4 year 100000k extended warranty at the same time you purchase a brand new vehicle? You have NO factory warranty at that point?

To buy or not to buy the warranty is always a crap shoot, but in the case of canceling a factory warranty, it wouldn't appear to make sense. But then again, I'm sure the sales guy could persuade me `)

 

[drdread]

The details r in the contract. when u purchase a new car the extended warranty will go into effect after factory expires. from an actuarial risk it's a new car & the money u will invest will have grown sev fold by the time ur factory expires. So think of it as 4 yrs fur them to make $ off of u w/o any risk of claim.
once u use vehicle it no longer qualifies as new after i think 6 or 12 mos & to mitigate their risk & not lower their profit (& risk) they then charge higher premium & make the terms immediate.
It's the ol' time vale of money mixed w a risk ratio.

 

[Pogiboy13]

Please post how much u paid for the warranty and from where. Thanks!

 

[DCR]

bump......2nd that....approaching 40k miles on my 2006 getting ready to shop.....is the Ford ESP still an option for us now that Tata owns LR?

 

[LEBoyd]

The details r in the contract. when u purchase a new car the extended warranty will go into effect after factory expires. from an actuarial risk it's a new car & the money u will invest will have grown sev fold by the time ur factory expires. So think of it as 4 yrs fur them to make $ off of u w/o any risk of claim.
once u use vehicle it no longer qualifies as new after i think 6 or 12 mos & to mitigate their risk & not lower their profit (& risk) they then charge higher premium & make the terms immediate.
It's the ol' time vale of money mixed w a risk ratio.

Not to disagree too much with Dr. Dread, but just to clarify a little. Right now, if they use your money for 4 years, they'll get about .5% more return than you will with a CD. That means if the cost is $2,000 you would have about $2,210 at the end of four years (high paying 4 year CD is 2.5%). The insurance company might have $2,250 (2.5% +.5%). Remember, they can't risk the money because they have an actuarial risk after the four years. So, for the four years they "make $ off of u w/o any risk of claim" of $40 - and then they do have a big risk of claim.

I'm a very pro-business person... If you're in *any* business or work for a business your trying "to make $ off of u". It's called profit. In fact you *WANT* the warranty company to make a profit. If they don't, then they go out of business and the warranty is worthless. If their profit is big, then other people want to make the big profits and get into the business, which then reduces the profits again (Ah, the joys of the free market).

So, is it worth $40 or even $100 to buy it now? I can't make that judgement for you. But don't bash warranty companies (or any company) for wanting to make a profit. Bash them for not following their contract when the don't? ABSOLUTELY! That's called fraud, and I'm well against that!!

 

[drdread]

Well put. Totally agree. I guess the point I was refuting was the claim that the original warranty is treated the same w a new car purchase vs when the car is well used. BL get a good warranty. It'll b worth it. & u guys should search warranty in the mk3 forum & in the main site. There's a bunch of write-ups well detailed there.

 

[LEBoyd]

After researching almost every warranty company out there, I finally bought a Ford ESP.

48K miles/48 months of Premium care cost around $2,500. The key difference here is the deductible is $100 per visit not per repair. Ford does not cap the labor rate.

I had 2 ball joints and a control arm replaced today. The dealer got paid a lower price for the parts but full rate for the labor, I paid the $100 deductible.

A positive experience.

If anyone would like the contact where to buy, please PM me.

RRDave, What year and mileage is on your RR? When did you purchase the RR vs the Ford ESP and vs. the work? Sounds like a good plan, just checking on the details. I'm looking at an '03 or '04 and considering the ESP.

Thanks,