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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, very new to P38, unfortunately not new to EAS problems...I have run a 1999 P38 DT for three months now, and so far have had a brand new compressor, and both rear ride height sensors replaced.

I have seen the lovely diagnostics machine, in the workshop, show me a level car, all actual ride heights in the acceptable tolerance for the target ride heights, all the EAS physically doing what it should.... ie all 4 ride heights, manually , or automatically being attainable in their respective situations..... and of course, the all important "NO FAULTS" message display on the machine. Also, will do its silly "trying to get level" lowering dance when you leave her.

SO.... Here's the 2 problems....

1.... Every now and again, she pumps herself up to off road height, usually in slow traffic...when I get to 35mph, down we go to normal height. Annoying, livable with, but, after having read loads of stuff on here, and the LandyZone, probably indicative of something still not right, after the 3 new purchases.

2.... Much more annoying, and not really livable with..... after a while, in normal ride mode, the drivers side (RH) will find its way up to, and stay, about 7 - 9 cm higher than the passenger side. The dash light remains in the normal height mode, and doesn't flash, even while it is serrupticiously pumping up the drivers side.
Upon leaving the vehicle in this condition, it won't ever do its lowering dance, and indeed, because there are no apparent leaks, it stays like that, even overnight.

Before I changed anything, (the compressor was the first thing to be changed) it always had problem 1, but problem 2 has only appeared since the rear ride height sensors have been changed....

I've been reading about O rings and relays, and would like to start with a visual inspection of the relays, and their mountings,....(I also get the little book symbol on the heater display from time to time...)...all advice is appreciated, but my 1st important question is....

If I pull out relays 20 (and 7) to give them the once over, am I going to get an EAS fault message of any description, in any way or scenario, that means I will have to take the car back to the Diagnostics Man to reset the system??

Cheers, Hugechoonz 8)
 

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To me it would seem you might still have a height sensor problem. mine are clean when on a computer however the heights mess around some times.
You could try downloading Storys program and making up a lead to fit(full instruction on the web site) thst way you might be able to see whats going on.
I believe on a 99 RR the fronts and backs are the same each side, so having had the backs done you could move the fronts from side to side, that way the you may be able to rule out those.
There will be other along with ideas too.
 

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#2 sounds like you have airlines crossed Left to Right. If you havn't messed with them, it's not likely though.

#1, if relay 20 is sticking, it could cause this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice and replies, I've been on the Fleabay, and for £25, ordered myself a ready made cable, usb adapter, and software for the above. I have also downloaded the RSW software, just in case the stuff that comes with the cable is not the proper stuff.
If I understand this right, I should be able to plug it into the laptop, drive around, and see numeric values changing when it goes into "doing something silly without showing a fault on the dash" mode?
Then I can work out what to do next?...that'd be rather good!!
Regarding the HEVAC advice, am sure that another symptom of all not being well-ness, as well as the sporadic book, is that the AC is nowhere near as cold as it should be... so, I might have a leak.. thanks for that!
I would still like to know,however, if I pull out Relay 20, will I get some kind of EAS fault code come up, just in case I can't wait for my EAS kit??
Cheers, Hugechoonz 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's another symptom of my problem which will hopefully mean something to you experienced EAS people.... funny...most problems I have read up on are about EAS lowering, or not going up... mine is that I goes too high.... :think:

It did its thing of pumping up to much higher on the drivers side this morning, with the light still on normal, and no eas faults... so, I pulled over on a flat surface, opened the window, got out, shut the door, and pushed the height selector up to max. (Off road height).

As expected, it did a little dance, and then brought up the passenger side to match the drivers side.

HOWEVER.... from the rear RH (drivers side) corner, came the definite sound of air escaping rapidly... there were 2 definite bursts of escaping air... 1.... as I initally pressed the button, and 2.... during the levelling process at the new height.

Now, I know that the airbags have no leaks, so... a seating problem??

Also, is it possible to manually select motorway mode?? Cos if I'm at normal mode and press lower, it goes straight to access mode...

Cheers, Hugechoonz.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update, have removed and inspected both relays, both in VGC, as are their sockets.

I left the RR one evening, AFTER it did it's air escaping thing, (drivers side (RH) rear), I locked it into off-road height, and measured the distances from top of the centre caps, to the wheel arch. Both fronts...510 mm, drivers (RH) side rear, 530 mm, passenger side rear (LH) 520 mm.

About 30 hours later, I re-measured, all exactly the same, except the drivers side (RH) rear, which had sunk 10 mm to 520mm.

Is this around what the off-road height should be?.... standard 255/65 x 16"s....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
viperover said:
Cable should be bought from Story, its the least we could do using his great programe he created

I will donate when I have found the solution to my particular problem..... his Software is indeed fantastic.


The following text is copied from Storey's website... :cry:

Range Rover P38a - EAS Cable

I am currently unable to fill any orders on this item. I am terribly sorry, but the cost and time to produce these cables is simply too extensive at this point. I am unable to compete with the dozens of Ebay sellers and am unwilling to lower the production quality of my cables to match their prices.
 

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I think Shupak's theory sounds likely.

If you have crossed over the air lines then everytime it thinks the passenger side is a little low it will try to add air which will inflate the drivers side until it reaches it's maximum. I'd check them out and make sure the right one goes to the right place.


When you get your cable you will be able to add air to each one in turn and make sure the correct bag is inflating.

Mines been standing for a year - when I cleared the fault it all inflated but the rear passenger side hissed loads when it was about half way up, I carried on inflating them all and it stopped and went all the way up - it's been stood for a few days up high and none of them have sunk yet, so I'm not sure if it was a setaing issue or if I'm going to get a leak at a certain point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Sotal,

I did try with the software today, and put each bag up and down individually... all in the correct corners...

I did however, take some figures down, from the fronts and rears, which hopefully will mean something to someone...
/ Access.... FL70 FR76 / Low.... FL107 FR106 / Normal....FL125 FR123 / High....FL149 FR145.
/ Access.... RL74 RR57 / Low.... RL119 RR87 / Normal.... RL131 RR95 / High....RL151 RR107.

Obviously, the high readings are the LH side.... but the higher side of the car is the RH (drivers) side.

I am assuming that both the fronts are ok, because the figures are close to each other, and the "stored" EAS heights are, in numerical order....(both same)...

Access...80, Low...107, Normal...122, High...148.

Even though the RH side has the lower readings, in reality, (ie driving along), it can be up to 70mm higher on RH (drivers side).

I want to swap the Rear Sensors over, see if that changes the readings, or where the readings are...

I can undo the 2 bolts, I can unplug the cables, and I assume the 2 metal link rods stay attached to each other,......but how do you un-attach the bottom of the 2nd link rod from its rubber housing in the arm? Do you just pull?..I don't need the aggro of breaking anything...

Cheers, Hugechoonz.
 

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I wonder if you have the wires to the sensors mixed up somewhere, so that although air goes to the correct bag when you use the software, if the sensor wires were mixed up it would be requesting air for the wrong bag.

I've not looked at the wiring is there any way for the wiring to have got mixed up? Are the connectors close enough at either end to mix up?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
sotal said:
I wonder if you have the wires to the sensors mixed up somewhere, so that although air goes to the correct bag when you use the software, if the sensor wires were mixed up it would be requesting air for the wrong bag.
Blimey, that's way out of my league!

If I'm following what you're suggesting, you're thinking that the High Numerical Readings should tally with the High side?

That would make sense to me,.....and that's why I'd like to swap the rear sensors over... just to see if the readings stay the same, or if the readings swap sides as well...

Do you know if I just pull the bottoms out of the rubber housings?

Thanks for your interest, btw.....as I mentioned before, most EAS problems I've read seem to concern the car lowering, or taking forever to rise... Mine is up, and pretty quick with it!
 
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