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Hi,

I'm just completing a Deal on a in-stock RRS HSE. It has stock Audio - I like great Audio and had the good system in my 2011 LR4.

Has anyone figured out how to easily upgrade the stock audio?

Will the Subwoofer from the Meridian system bolt right in under the seat and connect into the stock harness? Is the harness there?

Any other ideas?

Thanks
 

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Search the forum. The answer is NO. You cannot easily upgrade the system at all. Some members have literally sold their car and ordered a new one over the stereo system. So if you're an audiophile, do not get the car. Place and order and wait like the rest of us had to ;)
 

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It'll cost more than the Meridian upgrade and the results won't be as good if you try to upgrade a stock system. As Trez said, wait for the car with the upgrade.
 

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Yes, you can upgrade.

But you'll need:
1. The amp from RR, RRS, Evoque or Fl2 (BJ32-19C164-BF for example, 1200W version).
2. The sub from RR or RRS (LR035187 - from signature version)
3. We are already have wire to the subwoofer, but if you'll change the amp, you’ll need to install 4 additional mid speakers as well. And here is a problem - there is all necessary wire from the amp to the door connectors, but you'll need to add wire inside doors to the new speakers.

Codes for signature speakers (1200W version is less expensive, but I don't have codes at hands)
LR033292 tweeter
LR033293 middle
LR047119 middle bass
LR035187 sub

I have upgraded my audio. It's became much better, then the horrible basic audio.
 

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I tried doing the same thing as Baziran but I couldn't get my local dealer or LR NA to order the parts. They both said it would cost way more than if you ordered the upgrade from the get go. I doubt that but I was stuck so I ended up going aftermarket.
The problem with upgrading the stock system is that you have to use the speaker outs from the existing amp. This signal has already run through the stock DSP processor which cuts out the low end bass in order to preserve the stock speakers. The DSP processor also modifies the upper end depending on which speaker the output is going to. Bottom line – there is very minimal bass signal to pass onto a sub. There is a way around this though………..it’s not ideal but the results in our RRS came out a lot better than I expected. Here is what we had installed:

As you can probably already guess this cost a lot more than just ordering the upgrade but I didn’t want to not take delivery and wait for a new RRS to come in. Plus I would bet our new setup sounds as good if not better than the Meridian upgrade. I had a LR2 loaner the other day with a Meridian system and it was terrible. Not as bad as the RRS stock system but still very bad. What is really weird is we also had an older LR2 loaner and it had an Alpine based system. It was great!! I have no idea why LR switched to Meridian.
That’s the aftermarket upgrade story in a nutshell – if you want additional info feel free to PM me.

rrs_audio_upgrade.jpg WP_20150207_09_13_23_Pro.jpg WP_20150207_09_14_31_Pro.jpg
 

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I'll search for it, and will post next day.

Upgrade costed me about 2,76k USD (but I have used "used" amp from Polland. It is the most expensive part).
I have used speakers from signature (2500W) version, because there is not big difference in price from middle (1250W) version, but there is big difference in quality (for example tweeters in the middle version is the same, as in the basic version, and is different for signature).
Amp - 250 USD
Sub - 650 USD
4 middle bass - 800
7 middle - 490
7 tweeters - 420
wires - 150

2 days of research.
30 days waiting for speakers and amp.
1 or 2 day to install (I've tested 3-4 configurations: from simple to the full replacement).

All of work I've done by myself in free-time (only ones I asked friend to help me with the door wire).
Look at the attachment - there are the schemes of our audio equipment.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67260815/audio%208sp.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67260815/audio 19sp.pdf
 

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There are codes for speakers (from 1250W configuration):
3 tweeters LR025875 (center, 2 behind rear seats).
7 middle LR025876
4 middle bass LR047991
1 sub LR033287
 

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I had Fl2, RRS2009 with Logic 7, RR2011 with Logic 7, Jaguar XJ 2010 with B&W.
Sound systems in these cars was good (not excellent, just good).

And now I have RRS 2014.
The sound of "8 speaker" system is really bad.

But you need to know, that it's not because of Meridian. Meridian is the surround mode for our cars music.
Amps (hardware) are the same and for "logic 7" and for "meridian", the difference is only in software.

I hope you'll understand what i mean. :)
 

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I just ordered the subwoofer from the 2500w signature meridian. I thought in USA we have 825w and sig is 1700w? What market is he 2500w sold?

I have the meridian 825w now, my plan was to just swap out the subwoofer and leave the current amp as is and test the results. It is 50mm bigger so it should go deeper.

Has anyone tried doing this? What if instead of upgrading the meridian amp I just got a two channel amp for the factory sub? Or does the factory sub have its own powered amp I wonder?

I'm doing this on an L405, but should be same process. Did you have to remove the passenger seat to remove the subwoofer?
 

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I've decided changing the sub isn't going to do anything. Hardly any of the bass even comes from the sub in the Meridian system. It's almost all coming from the bass speakers in the doors. That would be why the doors rattle :)

I'm now debating either upgrading all the meridian speakers to signature, looks like I can get all the parts for $1400 (that is for 18 speakers, no sub no amp). Sounds pretty cheap to me! Or I could go aftermarket with those Mille speakers some have installed. Then I will disconnect the meridian sub and use a real enclosed sub, likely the JL 10" used a few posts up.
 

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I'm moving forward.

Upgrading 18 of the 19 speakers to Signature
Versions, then I'm disconnecting the sub and stealing that line to run to the back where I'm having a custom box built to fit in the golf club head cubby hole.

We'll be using a 12" JL W6v3 and a JL 750w Monoblock amp.

I've been mentioning to them I think we need to use an epicenter but they think not. Looking at the epicenter it can't actually restore bass, it more just makes it up. To restore, you would need something like the Bit One and a source disc and a mic so it could calibrate. I'll try the epicenter first just because it's cheaper and easier.
 

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I'm moving forward.

Upgrading 18 of the 19 speakers to Signature
Versions, then I'm disconnecting the sub and stealing that line to run to the back where I'm having a custom box built to fit in the golf club head cubby hole.

We'll be using a 12" JL W6v3 and a JL 750w Monoblock amp.

I've been mentioning to them I think we need to use an epicenter but they think not. Looking at the epicenter it can't actually restore bass, it more just makes it up. To restore, you would need something like the Bit One and a source disc and a mic so it could calibrate. I'll try the epicenter first just because it's cheaper and easier.
Do you have an update on your upgrade? How about install tips and pics?
 

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Any progress to report?

I've bought an Epicentre as well, but since my new RRS will be delivered in a couple of weeks only, I would be interested how that works out for you:

Looking to the (btw pretty entertaining, you could tell the epicentre folks had a good time or a couple of beers while writing it) installation manual you'd need to combine low, mid and tweeter signal into one full range signal (first device), route them into the Epic Center (second device), then split up again in a active crossover (third device) before routing them to aftermarket amps (forth - sixth device, depending) and speakers. This is going to get very crowded under the drivers seat.

Since I opted for coach class (standard Audio only) I have only low-mid signal and tweeters. I hope I get by with paralleling the Epicentre+ to the low-mid speaker out of the stock amp, and drive an active sub below passenger seat. Thats far away from high fidelity I admit, but I hope it will do it for me.
 

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Guys, do a search because I've posted my aftermarket install. I live my sound and bass is awesome. I used audison bit one, audison voce amp, hertz Mille 3way and jl w3 sub.I can't remember the post title because I didn't start it but it was asking about aftermarket stereo. Sorry, I'm on my phone so it's a little tedious to search, link..etc.
 

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aschessla, Looks really neat. I was thinking to put the sub into the cover plate of the spare wheel, but might be better off to put it has well into the side cover. What is behind it? Lots of space, or quite crowded? Assume the side cover is rather light, does it rattle? Which sub have you used, which am? Did you add a bass restoration processor?
 

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Baziran, I read the dealer has to reprogram the car in order for the new system to recognize the new amp, subwoofer and speakers. Is that true?

I'll search for it, and will post next day.

Upgrade costed me about 2,76k USD (but I have used "used" amp from Polland. It is the most expensive part).
I have used speakers from signature (2500W) version, because there is not big difference in price from middle (1250W) version, but there is big difference in quality (for example tweeters in the middle version is the same, as in the basic version, and is different for signature).
Amp - 250 USD
Sub - 650 USD
4 middle bass - 800
7 middle - 490
7 tweeters - 420
wires - 150

2 days of research.
30 days waiting for speakers and amp.
1 or 2 day to install (I've tested 3-4 configurations: from simple to the full replacement).

All of work I've done by myself in free-time (only ones I asked friend to help me with the door wire).
Look at the attachment - there are the schemes of our audio equipment.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67260815/audio%208sp.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67260815/audio 19sp.pdf
 
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