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That's great, thank you!
Having looked it up they're only £0.42 each. I've just had to replace a bolt on my Porsche 911 and it was £16.38!!
I did mine during the pandemic and spent 3x the cost of the bolts on shipping.

Best of luck.
 

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Status: Was able to finally install this over the weekend on my L405. Thanks to the help in this thread, the whole process only took about two hours start to finish.

Was a little nervous running the CCF changes and upload but it all went without a hitch. (Side note: it's so cool to see the car shut off and fully restart itself without any intervention during the upload process! Makes me wonder if I could enable remote start...anyone know?) Calibration was simple using a local highway...took exactly 7 miles to complete.

The system seems to be working great, although I haven't had the nerve to test the forward alert function yet.
Hi there! Congrats with your L405. I am still 1-2 inches away from getting to success with my 2016-LR4 L319, though HW, IID-Tool and the official LR Tester now see ACC (and we enabled all key settings with Patrick Meilleur’s help).

Maybe, one of you has an idea how the actual triggering of the calibration is meant to happen? That’s where we are stuck now :$

This is the SOP for a D4/LR4 ACC Retrofit, which I put together based on fragments I found everywhere. Patrick signed it off, too. Hope it’s helpful to someone :) Raoul
—————————————————

Sequence of steps for a Discovery 4 ACC-Retrofit in summary:

  1. New switch pack installation
  2. Radar Sensor installation
  3. IID Firmware update and provision by GAP of an “Complete CCF List”
  4. Changes to 5x ACC-Settings
  5. Trigger calibration in the menu.
Detailed steps:
Gap needs to unlock your car’s full CCF access. After GAP unlocks the CCF, there will be 2 versions: “quick" and "complete" CCF list.

Everything you need to modify is in the complete CCF.

Important, always update your tool to the latest firmware built before making any of the below changes. GAP’s latest firmware builds should support the radar sensor alignment/calibration function out of the box by now.
It is was originally not part of their standard firmware build, and that’s why earlier L319 ACC-retrofits required special/customized firmware from GAP.

Then change the following settings in the complete CCF:

Menu--Car Config--Complete list...

  1. Speed control -> Adaptive Fitted
  2. Standard speed control display type -> Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages
  3. Speed control -> ACC
  4. Speed control -> Adaptive speed control, stop and go
  5. Forward collision warning -> Forward collision warning GEN 1
Last step: Trigger Calibration
Menu--Calibration--Cruise...

Calibration process:
Once you start the calibration/alignment mode you need to drive at speeds of 50-120km/h on preferably a straight road with plenty of space between you and the car in front of you (if there is any other cars around).

The sensor is looking at fixed metal objects on the side of the road to calibrate itself. While it’s doing that the orange follow icon will flash in the instrument panel.

Once it stops you are done. Some calibration took 10-12km driving before it was good, but that can vary depending on several factors. If there are other cars, calibration will take longer. Some reported driving up to 75km.

After calibration is complete you have to turn the car off for 15 seconds, restart and you are good to go. Just follow the Instructions in the owners manual for ACC usage.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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70 Posts
Hi,

Does anyone know the size of the bolts needed to secure the radar to the car?

Thanks



I paid 15 for all three shipped, in a pinch. Wish I had the size prior, but it all worked out and was shipped pretty quick.
Best of luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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66 Posts
Hi there! Congrats with your L405. I am still 1-2 inches away from getting to success with my 2016-LR4 L319, though HW, IID-Tool and the official LR Tester now see ACC (and we enabled all key settings with Patrick Meilleur’s help).

Maybe, one of you has an idea how the actual triggering of the calibration is meant to happen? That’s where we are stuck now :$

This is the SOP for a D4/LR4 ACC Retrofit, which I put together based on fragments I found everywhere. Patrick signed it off, too. Hope it’s helpful to someone :) Raoul
—————————————————

Sequence of steps for a Discovery 4 ACC-Retrofit in summary:
  1. New switch pack installation
  2. Radar Sensor installation
  3. IID Firmware update and provision by GAP of an “Complete CCF List”
  4. Changes to 5x ACC-Settings
  5. Trigger calibration in the menu.
Detailed steps:
Gap needs to unlock your car’s full CCF access. After GAP unlocks the CCF, there will be 2 versions: “quick" and "complete" CCF list.

Everything you need to modify is in the complete CCF.

Important, always update your tool to the latest firmware built before making any of the below changes. GAP’s latest firmware builds should support the radar sensor alignment/calibration function out of the box by now.
It is was originally not part of their standard firmware build, and that’s why earlier L319 ACC-retrofits required special/customized firmware from GAP.

Then change the following settings in the complete CCF:

Menu--Car Config--Complete list...

  1. Speed control -> Adaptive Fitted
  2. Standard speed control display type -> Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages
  3. Speed control -> ACC
  4. Speed control -> Adaptive speed control, stop and go
  5. Forward collision warning -> Forward collision warning GEN 1
Last step: Trigger Calibration
Menu--Calibration--Cruise...

Calibration process:
Once you start the calibration/alignment mode you need to drive at speeds of 50-120km/h on preferably a straight road with plenty of space between you and the car in front of you (if there is any other cars around).

The sensor is looking at fixed metal objects on the side of the road to calibrate itself. While it’s doing that the orange follow icon will flash in the instrument panel.

Once it stops you are done. Some calibration took 10-12km driving before it was good, but that can vary depending on several factors. If there are other cars, calibration will take longer. Some reported driving up to 75km.

After calibration is complete you have to turn the car off for 15 seconds, restart and you are good to go. Just follow the Instructions in the owners manual for ACC usage.
RH_D4_2016 – One thing I noticed in your outlined steps above is that you only have 5 CCF items listed to modify. However, I had 11 items to modify / enable. Wondering if that might be the reason you're not able to turn on the calibration mode?

From the OP's notes, here are the configurations I enabled / modified:
  • Speed Control: Adaptive speed control is fitted
  • Adaptive Speed Control ECU: North America, Canada, Mexico, Australia
  • Adaptive Speed Control ECU: Standard blockage level -40dB
  • Collision Mitigation By Braking: Fitted
  • Standard Speed Control Display Type: Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages
  • Speed Control: Adaptive speed control with queue assist
  • Adaptive Cruise Control Indication In Instrument Cluster: Enabled
  • Speed Control: Adaptive speed control, stop and go
  • Collision Mitigation By Braking: Collision mitigation by braking GEN 3
  • Forward Collision Warning: Forward collision warning GEN 3
  • Front Crash Sensing System: Front crash sensing system - Upfront sensor
What happens when you try to enable the calibration mode?
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Installed the radar today. Super easy. Follow this video.


Worked flawlessly for my 2015 L494. Only caveat is I only partially removed the bumper to get to the radar install. The followed the complete removal but decided to only DC the 3 wire looms and leave the washer hoses connected on the right side. I pulled the bumper from the left and 3/4 to the right side. I was able to access from there. I’m pretty certain it might be easier to DC the hoses on the right and leave the wire looms. Either way, pulling the complete bumper isn’t that much harder, just wanted to save some time and make it a tad easier for a one man job. Took me about 45 minutes in total. Save some money go to hardware store and buy aftermarket bolts. There is a lot of fudge factor for size. I attached pics above for OEM rip offs. Just be sure of the thread pattern.

I’ll program soon. Thx for all the great information friends!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Installed the radar today. Super easy. Follow this video.

QUOTE="firescrap, post: 2309448, member: 248482"]
Worked flawlessly for my 2015 L494. Only caveat is I only partially removed the bumper to get to the radar install. The followed the complete removal but decided to only DC the 3 wire looms and leave the washer hoses connected on the right side. I pulled the bumper from the left and 3/4 to the right side. I was able to access from there. I’m pretty certain it might be easier to DC the hoses on the right and leave the wire looms. Either way, pulling the complete bumper isn’t that much harder, just wanted to save some time and make it a tad easier for a one man job. Took me about 45 minutes in total. Save some money go to hardware store and buy aftermarket bolts. There is a lot of fudge factor for size. I attached pics above for OEM rip offs. Just be sure of the thread pattern.

I’ll program soon. Thx for all the great information friends!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great job. Will you take note of the CCF file changes
 

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I have a 2020 Range Rover Sport, I am not yet able to find someone to code my AAC yet, even some saying its not possible, however I can't see that as true.
 

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Programming

This required some trial and error as no one had a guide. Using the GAP IID tool you’ll need to email their support and tell them what you want to do as they have to unlock the “Full CCF” function. This gives you access to all the CCFs they have discovered. Once you have this power there is a chance you could mess something up if you go through and randomly change settings. Most items have a logical name but the full effects may not be known as many items interact with others.
For ACC you need to change 11 items, most are pretty clear:
View attachment 283787 View attachment 283788
Hi
Great write up! Well done mate. Can I ask, can you install the sensor behind the bumper and Steering switch pack and program later? I only ask because my local garage is doing the sensor and switch when it goes in for painting next week. I then need to drive it home and use my iid tool to program along with the flash software from gap.
just wondered if car is ok wi try these fitted and not programmed?
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Hi
Great write up! Well done mate. Can I ask, can you install the sensor behind the bumper and Steering switch pack and program later? I only ask because my local garage is doing the sensor and switch when it goes in for painting next week. I then need to drive it home and use my iid tool to program along with the flash software from gap.
just wondered if car is ok wi try these fitted and not programmed?
Mine is currently fitted and not programmed. Everything works, just as if nothing was there. Waiting to program when I get back home in a few days.


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Mine is currently fitted and not programmed. Everything works, just as if nothing was there. Waiting to program when I get back home in a few days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s great
What year is your car?
Mines a 2015 and trying to fit other retrofits inc high beam assist and wondered if there were any other guides out there?
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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Hey all!

so far.. still LOVING the adaptive cruise control retrofit.. it's really helped my MPG as well for highway driving.

question. I have a service coming up.. any concern if they do a software upgrade? can I tell them not to? standard 30,000 service..
 

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2015 L494

Just pulled my AHB mirror and added LDW and TSR mirror. LMK if your interested in the mirror. DM me, if so.


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Hi yes intrested in your mirror.
Could you give me the part number of your mirror? I’m just after the high beam assist mirror? As I take it this is different to the land departure and sign regognition?
 

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Hi yes intrested in your mirror.
Could you give me the part number of your mirror? I’m just after the high beam assist mirror? As I take it this is different to the land departure and sign regognition?
I’ll DM ya.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Hey all!

so far.. still LOVING the adaptive cruise control retrofit.. it's really helped my MPG as well for highway driving.

question. I have a service coming up.. any concern if they do a software upgrade? can I tell them not to? standard 30,000 service..
Ha, I’m in the same boat. I know the dealer tool references the vin to determine options you should have so I’m not sure if it’ll flag it for having ACC and reflash the CCF’s to stock configuration or it doesn’t look for it unless they are troubleshooting? How close are you to needing service?

I was leaning towards just going back to stock on CCF’s as it is simple to do. The Calibration is saved in the sensor so you can just change the CCF’s back and be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Hi
Great write up! Well done mate. Can I ask, can you install the sensor behind the bumper and Steering switch pack and program later? I only ask because my local garage is doing the sensor and switch when it goes in for painting next week. I then need to drive it home and use my iid tool to program along with the flash software from gap.
just wondered if car is ok wi try these fitted and not programmed?
Completely ok to do this. If you don’t tell it to look for the sensor by changing the CCF’s it can just sit there forever with no effect.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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Ha, I’m in the same boat. I know the dealer tool references the vin to determine options you should have so I’m not sure if it’ll flag it for having ACC and reflash the CCF’s to stock configuration or it doesn’t look for it unless they are troubleshooting? How close are you to needing service?

I was leaning towards just going back to stock on CCF’s as it is simple to do. The Calibration is saved in the sensor so you can just change the CCF’s back and be good to go.
I have some time that’s for sure.
Does the gap tool remember my stock settings ?
 
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