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Did you end up upgrading the steering wheel controls to the 2018+ style ones? Is it plug and play? I heard you need an aftermarket wiring loom to make them work, Haven't seen anyone on this discussion talk about that. Trying to get this mod done on my 2014 L494
I did it. You do need the aftermarket loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Went to install ACC today and realized I didn’t have the 3 bolts to mount the front radar. Local dealers are closed, of course. So placed an online order where the shipping cost 4x the bolts... but better than trying to guess the size/thread with multiple trips to my local hardware.

I also had forgotten that I needed updated firmware on my GAP, so shot them an email to get the calibration settings turned on. Hopefully I’ll hear back from them this week, and if the bolts arrive, I’ll dig into the front bumper next weekend.

I did get the switchpack installed and while I was at it, upgraded the airbag to the leather version in the same color as the seats (almond).

Before:


After:
Others are having issues getting a hold of GAP during The shut down. So it may be a while before you get a reply. Amm was able to use his without the calibration. Maybe because his was used and already had a calibration file? Is yours used?

I like the new Almond center. My interior is all black and I’d like to change out a few pieces to add some color.
 

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Yeah I was hoping to take this time time at home to pull my bumper and add the sonar sensor but without being able to get a hold of GAP kind of a moot point.

although I guess I could just install it anyway.
 

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Others are having issues getting a hold of GAP during The shut down. So it may be a while before you get a reply. Amm was able to use his without the calibration. Maybe because his was used and already had a calibration file? Is yours used?

I like the new Almond center. My interior is all black and I’d like to change out a few pieces to add some color.
I purchased my GAP new. Patrick already responded this morning and gave me access to the 2702 build of the firmware. I've loaded it onto my GAP and checked it in the car. I now have ACC in the calibration section. Now all I need is the bolts to mount the radar.

Thanks on the Almond center. I debated it for awhile, but since it's what they installed on the higher trimmed cars (mine is a well equipped HSE Diesel), I went for it. I wasn't sure if I would like it or not, but so far it's growing on me... definitely brightens it up and looks a bit more "finished" and maybe a bit more "lux"... if that makes sense.

Regarding the other question related to the button packs, I went with the original and not the touch buttons. I can always do that mod in the future if I decide and when I can get easy access to the loom... which right now the manufacturing company is shut down due to Covid-19. I'm not that interested in ordering from EuroActive as their markup is horrendous and I had some challenges in the past with them on BMW parts.
 

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Hi guys,

Hello from the other side of the pond!

I've got a MY2016 HSE Dynamic RRS L494 over here in the UK, and one thing I really miss not having is the ACC.
After a search I've come across this forum/thread - the good news is it looks like it can be done!

Looks like I just need three bits if I'm reading your post correctly?

The radar (I think the one I need for the UK has FPLA-9G768-AC written on it)
The radar bracket (I'm hoping to pick up a used radar with bracket attached, but the brackets seem cheap if that's not possible)
The switch/buttons for the steering wheel to control ACC (again, a new one isn't too expensive)

Once I've obtained and fitted those, it needs programming in. I'm guessing I can just follow what you've done above in your screenshot, but use a UK/Europe option under the ACC ECU heading?

I don't have a tool to do this currently, but will check with some specialists to see if they can help, or sounds like I could obtain a GAP tool myself if I have no luck with that.

Does this all sound correct? I can't find anything about anyone doing this retrofit over here (or much in general!) so just want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Hi guys,

Hello from the other side of the pond!

I've got a MY2016 HSE Dynamic RRS L494 over here in the UK, and one thing I really miss not having is the ACC.
After a search I've come across this forum/thread - the good news is it looks like it can be done!

Looks like I just need three bits if I'm reading your post correctly?

The radar (I think the one I need for the UK has FPLA-9G768-AC written on it)
The radar bracket (I'm hoping to pick up a used radar with bracket attached, but the brackets seem cheap if that's not possible)
The switch/buttons for the steering wheel to control ACC (again, a new one isn't too expensive)

Once I've obtained and fitted those, it needs programming in. I'm guessing I can just follow what you've done above in your screenshot, but use a UK/Europe option under the ACC ECU heading?

I don't have a tool to do this currently, but will check with some specialists to see if they can help, or sounds like I could obtain a GAP tool myself if I have no luck with that.

Does this all sound correct? I can't find anything about anyone doing this retrofit over here (or much in general!) so just want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

Thanks :)
That's interesting because I gathered a lot of the data to do this from the UK forums. Your parts list looks good. Finding the sensor for cheap is the key and I've seen more for sale on eBay in the UK then over here. As far as the software I used GAP so that's the one I know. I would imagine you select UK in the settings to account for driving on the other side of the road.
 

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That's interesting because I gathered a lot of the data to do this from the UK forums. Your parts list looks good. Finding the sensor for cheap is the key and I've seen more for sale on eBay in the UK then over here. As far as the software I used GAP so that's the one I know. I would imagine you select UK in the settings to account for driving on the other side of the road.
Maybe I'm just doing the wrong searches then, ha!
I could see stuff for previous models, but not the L494/L405.

Never mind, glad I found your guide.
I'll give it a go and report back - cheers!
 

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Hi guys,

Hello from the other side of the pond!

I've got a MY2016 HSE Dynamic RRS L494 over here in the UK, and one thing I really miss not having is the ACC.
After a search I've come across this forum/thread - the good news is it looks like it can be done!

Looks like I just need three bits if I'm reading your post correctly?

The radar (I think the one I need for the UK has FPLA-9G768-AC written on it)
The radar bracket (I'm hoping to pick up a used radar with bracket attached, but the brackets seem cheap if that's not possible)
The switch/buttons for the steering wheel to control ACC (again, a new one isn't too expensive)

Once I've obtained and fitted those, it needs programming in. I'm guessing I can just follow what you've done above in your screenshot, but use a UK/Europe option under the ACC ECU heading?

I don't have a tool to do this currently, but will check with some specialists to see if they can help, or sounds like I could obtain a GAP tool myself if I have no luck with that.

Does this all sound correct? I can't find anything about anyone doing this retrofit over here (or much in general!) so just want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

Thanks :)
Is there a difference between the FPLA-9G768-AC and the DPLA-9G768-AC?
From what I gather they both have the same part number?
I keep finding ones starting with F but all the ones with D are apparently for ford. :unsure:
 

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Quick update - finished my install today and everything is working great. This may be the best upgrade I’ve done to my truck. Makes cruise control actually usable.

Only a few items worth mentioning:

On the video from powerful UK, after removing the wheel well, they only show removing one screw from inside the wheel well... there are two screws on each side.

The little air dams they show removing on the L405 were not on the L494. Just two screws on each side that go into the wheel well.

My car went immediately into calibration mode after making all the CCF changes... in other words I didn’t have to put it into calibration mode from the GAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Great job. Yeah, I agree it’s a worthwhile feature to have. It makes a big difference in long distance driving.

Interesting about it going straight
to calibration mode. Your Radar Sensor was used correct?
 

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Great job. Yeah, I agree it’s a worthwhile feature to have. It makes a big difference in long distance driving.

Interesting about it going straight
to calibration mode. Your Radar Sensor was used correct?
Correct, it was used. After I hooked everything up, I did the CCF programming and the ACC dash light started flashing.

Thanks again [mention]Gpplutta [/mention]for blazing the trail and for taking the time to document it. Much appreciated!
 

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Thanks for letting me know. Those DPLAs are hard to come by used I've been looking for a while. I wonder what model RR the more available HPLA and FPLA models fit.
 

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Thanks for letting me know. Those DPLAs are hard to come by used I've been looking for a while. I wonder what model RR the more available HPLA and FPLA models fit.
Check your eBay settings and don’t limit to just the US. I found dozens across UK and Europe... mine came from Poland... or maybe it was Romania.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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One other question... does anyone know if the washer fluid hoses on the right side are picky about which one goes to which inlet. I didn’t tag them and of course didn’t realize it until I had buttoned up most of it.

I’m pretty sure it won’t matter as its likely they just go to the each of the headlight sprayers, but just wanted to confirm without wasting a lot of washer fluid to see if they are both still functioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
One other question... does anyone know if the washer fluid hoses on the right side are picky about which one goes to which inlet. I didn’t tag them and of course didn’t realize it until I had buttoned up most of it.

I’m pretty sure it won’t matter as its likely they just go to the each of the headlight sprayers, but just wanted to confirm without wasting a lot of washer fluid to see if they are both still functioning.
In the Powerful UK video they mention it doesn’t matter which one was plugged in to which hole. I didn’t bother to mark them and just plugged them in.
 

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I must be the only person unable to get a hold of anyone at GAP as i've sent 3 emails now that have all gone un answered over the past month and a half. What email address are you guys sending to?

Would love to get my updated firmware so I could install all the parts I've had sitting here for a bit now.
 

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I must be the only person unable to get a hold of anyone at GAP as i've sent 3 emails now that have all gone un answered over the past month and a half. What email address are you guys sending to?

Would love to get my updated firmware so I could install all the parts I've had sitting here for a bit now.
Sent to you in direct message.
 
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