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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Thanks again Gpplutta

Stellar work. My only question is, how do you know which GEN for the specific year/model of your RR? Or does it matter?


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The 2014 to 2016 use GEN3. The older GENs are for the L322 chassis. Just the naming convention JLR used.
 

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The 2014 to 2016 use GEN3. The older GENs are for the L322 chassis. Just the naming convention JLR used.
Mission completed! 20 mile calibration. Used the exact settings you posted. Best upgrade ever! Thanks to everyone who helped also to Pat at GAP! Keep tinkering!!!


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Has anyone found the mirror part number for the ldw/speed limit? I want to do that and this acc retrofit with emergency stopping.
 

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Has anyone found the mirror part number for the ldw/speed limit? I want to do that and this acc retrofit with emergency stopping.
PN is LR052599 but its best to get a 2nd hand one 2016 RANGE ROVER L405 FRONT INTERIOR REAR VIEW MIRROR W/ AUTO DIM HOMELINK OEM

The above is the one I bought as they give you the vin of the donor car so you can check on topix the spec, if it had LDW and TSR then its the right mirror.

As soon as I get a chance I will right up the process and the parts need as you will also need a lower cover for the new mirror pn LR072359 bought $10(the top part is the same) the Mirrors are interchangeable for L494 And L405

P
 

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PN is LR052599 but its best to get a 2nd hand one 2016 RANGE ROVER L405 FRONT INTERIOR REAR VIEW MIRROR W/ AUTO DIM HOMELINK OEM

The above is the one I bought as they give you the vin of the donor car so you can check on topix the spec, if it had LDW and TSR then its the right mirror.

As soon as I get a chance I will right up the process and the parts need as you will also need a lower cover for the new mirror pn LR072359 bought $10(the top part is the same) the Mirrors are interchangeable for L494 And L405

P
 

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Hello all
I have installed the active cruise it has calibrated took around 10 miles, however when I select it it gives a yellow triangle warning and the message cruise not available, on loading the parameters for the device out of the 11 items I was not able to change 2 items front crash sensing & speed control adaptive speed control stop & go there was no option to change them with the idd tool any ideas ?
 

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Hello all
I have installed the active cruise it has calibrated took around 10 miles, however when I select it it gives a yellow triangle warning and the message cruise not available, on loading the parameters for the device out of the 11 items I was not able to change 2 items front crash sensing & speed control adaptive speed control stop & go there was no option to change them with the idd tool any ideas ?
Hmm! What part number does the radar you got have?
 

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I'm doing this in a 2010 L322 HSE. I already installed the ECU in rear loadspace, and configured it as new with SDD, and also edited the CCF to turn on all relevant options. I'm a little confused on the sensors. It appears there are TWO different sensors that fit the L322. Once is the "slim type" as used in the L405 (but i don't think this sensor was introduced until 2012). Which leaves the old denso "Fat box" part number YDB500560.

So I got as far as installing the sensor (I have no idea on the mechanical leveling pre-calibration procedure (supposedly uses a digital level) that must be done on this sensor using threaded adjusters prior to the driving self-learning calibration described in this thread, so if anyone has access to dealer level procedure, please help me with this one!

I took my best shot at getting it perpendicular to direction of travel and vertically level.

Upon doing a "configure new" or "configure existing" CCM module, everything goes fine, and no warning indicators on dash. If you try to turn on cruise control, you get a amber "Cruise control not available". No errors or DTC's coming from the ACC system.

I then ran the start ACC calibration, and then got the blinking yellow ACC gap indicator on the dash, and it just stays there indefinitely (I drove 70 miles on level straight roads at constant speed as recommended. It seems to stay stuck in calibration mode indefinitely.

One thing I may have wrong is I picked GEN3 (which may be L405 specific), but I don't think that would stop it. Do you have a breakdown of what the different GEN settings were for (vehciles & sensors)?

There is also an on demand self test of the ACC system available in SDD which instantly fails (I don't know if this is just a non-functional feature, but just times out almost instantly). All data from the CCM module comes up as good including VIN.

What am I missing?!!?!??!?!? Please HELP!
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
I'm doing this in a 2010 L322 HSE. I already installed the ECU in rear loadspace, and configured it as new with SDD, and also edited the CCF to turn on all relevant options. I'm a little confused on the sensors. It appears there are TWO different sensors that fit the L322. Once is the "slim type" as used in the L405 (but i don't think this sensor was introduced until 2012). Which leaves the old denso "Fat box" part number YDB500560.

So I got as far as installing the sensor (I have no idea on the mechanical leveling pre-calibration procedure (supposedly uses a digital level) that must be done on this sensor using threaded adjusters prior to the driving self-learning calibration described in this thread, so if anyone has access to dealer level procedure, please help me with this one!

I took my best shot at getting it perpendicular to direction of travel and vertically level.

Upon doing a "configure new" or "configure existing" CCM module, everything goes fine, and no warning indicators on dash. If you try to turn on cruise control, you get a amber "Cruise control not available". No errors or DTC's coming from the ACC system.

I then ran the start ACC calibration, and then got the blinking yellow ACC gap indicator on the dash, and it just stays there indefinitely (I drove 70 miles on level straight roads at constant speed as recommended. It seems to stay stuck in calibration mode indefinitely.

One thing I may have wrong is I picked GEN3 (which may be L405 specific), but I don't think that would stop it. Do you have a breakdown of what the different GEN settings were for (vehciles & sensors)?

There is also an on demand self test of the ACC system available in SDD which instantly fails (I don't know if this is just a non-functional feature, but just times out almost instantly). All data from the CCM module comes up as good including VIN.

What am I missing?!!?!??!?!? Please HELP!
Recommend posting this in the L322 forum. Best of luck.
 

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I tried (with no luck), but this thread seems like the biggest collective knowledge base of ACC retrofits on this site are in this thread, and I did see some mentions of L322’s earlier in this thread. Even if you don’t, I hope someone here has access to the info that can help me.
 

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I can’t get the ldw plug to work in my truck. I don’t have anywhere to hook up the green plug under my dash board. Also I don’t know what mirror to buy. Also I already have adaptive cruise. How do I know if I need the lane departure module? Where at the sun visor is it located? I can’t see anything?
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My new ldw plug came with a long pigtail adapter but no where to plug it in my truck
 

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I have now successfully retrofitted ACC to my MY2016 HSE Dynamic.

Contacted GAP and got them to enable the beta firmware build which included the ACC calibration mode. 5.5 miles later (2.5miles country roads, 3 miles dual carriageway) the calibration light stopped flashing. Car off for 15 seconds, back on...and the short test drive home it seemed to be working properly!
Really happy it worked, I am waiting for my 2020 RRS to be configurable with the GAP tool. Don't think its ready yet...
 

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I tried (with no luck), but this thread seems like the biggest collective knowledge base of ACC retrofits on this site are in this thread, and I did see some mentions of L322’s earlier in this thread. Even if you don’t, I hope someone here has access to the info that can help me.
I actually got mine working perfectly now :). It’s so critical how the front Radar sensor is mechanically mounted and aligned, there really is so little room for error.
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
I actually got mine working perfectly now :). It’s so critical how the front Radar sensor is mechanically mounted and aligned, there really is so little room for error.
That’s great news! Congratulations on working it through!
 

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That’s great news! Congratulations on working it through!
Thank you. It works really well (I wish I did it sooner), once sensor was mounted using factory brackets/hardware and aligned properly, automatic calibration completed in just 3.3 miles on a straight road at 40mph. My latest project I’m working on now is a factory Aux parking heater retrofit!
 

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So here's the deal on my install... Patrick was a huge help in trying to get this to work but in the end the car was just not recognizing the sensor. There's a number of possible reasons for that, wrong sensor type, not getting power, or it's just bad. Kind of goes with the territory when dealing with used parts. Not sure I'll throw any more money at this project especially since while all this was going on someone decided to back into my front bumper and tore off the entire bottom section, from the fog light on down on the passenger side. I just got the car back from the body shop with a nice new freshly painted bumper so I'm not all that excited about pulling the bumper again to mess with the sensor.


I'm glad I'm not the only one here that "Didn't Enjoy" removing the entire bumper... I've been turning wrenches for almost 20 years and the front bumper removal took me a total of (3) hours to do. Of course I went slow making sure not to break anything or ruin any wiring or sensors but some of you guys are reporting of doing the bumper removal in under an hour. They must have done it before... I expect reinstalling the bumper to take about an hour now I know the sequence and am comfortable... But I'm with you BillyBobRRS... I never ever want to have to remove that front bumper for anything ever again... I had to remove mine due to the driver's side camera being pushed in it's recess bracket by a rock from a dump truck and no matter what I tried I couldn't get at it to reset it or even know if I could. All that work for a literal 1.5 second push back the camera into it's bracket. I electrically tapped the piss out of both cameras and the ear tabs making them pinch those cameras harder into their brackets...

Dealer quoted me $740 each for new camera's with spotless lenses and I just kindly laughed and said I'll keep using my current ones. I wish I could just change out the plastic clear lens cover but know that isn't an option.

Cool for all you guys that installed an ACC and like it. I'm too much of a "Control FreaK" to trust that feature or I'd be all over the install considering the front bumper is on a rack in my garage. Good for you guys! Mine came with the Auto Dimming Mirror with the camera pointed out the front but not the ACC radar which seems weird to me.

Anyone know what the "Condensers" are for behind where the fog-lights sit that flank the main middle radiator? Just curious as to their function. I suspect they might cool the AWD system and Tranny but that is just speculation!

Pic of her all freshly disassembled while out in the rain today... That certainly didn't help with the removal process time I can attest!

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