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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I can’t leave any of my cars alone and the RRS wasn’t going get a pass either. I wanted the Adaptive Cruise control (ACC) option on my RRS but found it to be a fairly rare option. It seemed much more common on the fullfat Rover when I was looking. Anyway after I found mine it had all the options I wanted with the exception of the elusive ACC.

Based on previous experiences “coding” my BMWs I figured it could be retrofitted as long as there was a software solution. I put It on the back burner as I tweaked the other items I wanted to address but once I wrapped those up I saw a post about a guy in Turkey that could swap out the analog dash for the digital dash. Also on his Instagram page it showed him doing the ACC retrofit as well. So I knew the software was out there but after messaging him he was cagey about the details even after I told him I’d pay for his time/assistance. Realizing that was a dead end I started digging around on the old interwebz and found some Land Rover Disco 3 and 4 owners in the UK had been attempting to do the retrofit as well.

The Disco 3 and 4 are last generation technology but a small company normally doesn’t stray to far as they evolve so there was good information to gleam from their efforts. A little closer to home on the fullfat Rover UK forum they have a retrofit list with the parts needed for ACC on the L405. Good old parts commonality comes through again. The L405 (2013 onward Range Rover) and the L494 (2014 onward Range Rover Sport) are based on the same core design and share a ton of parts and systems. So I had the list of hardware needed but that was always the easy part. The UK guys seemed to use hacked versions of the factory SDD software but there wasn’t a lot of info available on the web and there was conflicting information on it as well. As I looked around I ran across the GAP diagnostic IID tool and it had access to the Configuration Control Files. That is how JLR provides functionality to the different options on their vehicles. They even had the calibration procedure for the last generation‘s ACC.

I emailed them and told them what I was looking to do. They looked into it and replied that they didn’t see why it wouldn’t work But they had not done it yet on the L405/494. So I ordered their tool and the parts needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Parts needed

Luckly it’s a short list. Bad news is the cheapest I found the Radar Sensor was 1500.00 for a new one. I see used ones for 500-600 but the two I tried to buy flaked out. Also GAP recommended a close match as possible in year and model for success. The actual ACC system is a Delphi system that they sell to other manufacturers as well. Mostly Ford. So there are a lot of those sensors out there for 200-350 dollars but... there’s different firmware versions loaded on them and I’m not sure what is cross-compatible.... So there is an opportunity for the brave that has the time to fiddle.

Also the button pack looks a lot like the non ACC one just with arrows. Same number of pins etc... if I was a betting man I’d say that one would work. But then you wouldn’t have the cool arrows to show off to your friends that don’t care. Also brand new it’s only about 75 bucks and I wanted to keep variables to a minimum.

LR062658 - Radar / Distance Sensor Unit
LR060076 - Radar mounting bracket
LR087486 - Steering Wheel Switch Pack

here is a picture of all the parts listed on the diagram. You don’t need the foam block unless you have a small pet that needs a pillow.
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This is the Radar Distance sensor
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Here is the bracket for the sensor
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Install

The install is super easy. I used the videos from Powerful UK. Those guys are great. I tried to purchase the parts from them to give back something for all the great info they put out but no luck. Next time I need something they have Ill be sure to hit them up.
replacing the steering wheel buttons is a 20-30 minute job.

and

Then to install the sensor you just have to remove the front bumper. Again, very easy. I used the L405 video as they are the same underneath.


once it’s off here’s what you’ll find. Everything is there ready to go. The wire harness is in place on all of them, you just have to remove the cap.
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Now just bolt up the bracket, plug the cable into the sensor, then it locks into the three posts on the bracket.
Here is what it looks like ready to go.
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Put the bumper back on and it’s time to program the ECU for ACC.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Programming

This required some trial and error as no one had a guide. Using the GAP IID tool you’ll need to email their support and tell them what you want to do as they have to unlock the “Full CCF” function. This gives you access to all the CCFs they have discovered. Once you have this power there is a chance you could mess something up if you go through and randomly change settings. Most items have a logical name but the full effects may not be known as many items interact with others.
For ACC you need to change 11 items, most are pretty clear:
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283788
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Calibration

Finally the last step. Once again GAP will have to provide you a special firmware build to support the Sensor alignment function. It is not part of the standard build yet. Not sure if they will add it later.
Once you start the alignment mode you need to drive above 30 mph on preferably a straight road with plenty of space between you and the car in front of you if there is any other cars. The sensor is looking at fixed objects on the side of the road to calibrate itself. While it’s doing that the orange follow icon will flash. Once it stops you are done. I drove like that for 7 miles before it was good. It will vary depending on several factors. It looks like this
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After that you have to turn the car off for 15 seconds, restart and you are good to go. Just follow the Instructions in the owners manual for ACC usage.
 

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Awesome! Thank you. What was the total cost when all said and done? What year/model do you have?
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So being the first go I bought all new parts for the best prices I could find online. I spent about 1700 not including the GAP tool. I think if you are patient and waited for the right used sensor to come up for sale you could do it for 700 plus the tool. If someone cracked the code on the Ford sensors you could do it for less then 500.

I‘m sure there’s other ways to complete the programming /calibration besides the GAP tool, I just don’t know the exact path. Maybe an independent Land Rover repair shop would have the right software? I don’t think a dealer could help you even if they wanted to. Their tool references your vin and if you don’t have the option it won’t let them do the programming. Which I don’t blame them for liability reasons. There may be work arounds but again I don’t know what they are.

That said if you tend to tinker with your Rover the GAP tool is very valuable in many ways besides this.

I have a 2016 Supercharged Dynamic. The tool does not support 2017+ as far as CCFs are concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great write up. One question, if you know... do you have to have the Digital dash for this or is everything there with the analog one?
I believe it’s all there on the analog dash cars as well. I have seen them fitted with ACC so I’d guess it would be cheaper for all the models to have the same parts. Though it’s an even more rare combo as the few that were ordered with ACC almost always had the digital dash.

As a bonus I’m sure you can swap the to the digital dash. I saw the settings in the CCF to do so. Also the Turkish guy I saw on a post on here does the dash swap as a side hustle.
 

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I believe it’s all there on the analog dash cars as well. I have seen them fitted with ACC so I’d guess it would be cheaper for all the models to have the same parts. Though it’s an even more rare combo as the few that were ordered with ACC almost always had the digital dash.

As a bonus I’m sure you can swap the to the digital dash. I saw the settings in the CCF to do so. Also the Turkish guy I saw on a post on here does the dash swap as a side hustle.
Thanks. I’ve considered the digital dash, but can’t seem to find anyone who has done it who can confirm the parts/steps.

On the Gap tool... did you get the regular one or the pro version?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks. I’ve considered the digital dash, but can’t seem to find anyone who has done it who can confirm the parts/steps.

On the Gap tool... did you get the regular one or the pro version?
From what I've seen it looks to be a straight swap. The plug in the back is the same and in the same location. Used they are only around 400 bucks on E-Bay.

I'm using the regular one. They only sell the Bluetooth enabled ones now.
Its actually a buck cheaper on Amazon

Pro is only if you want to do more then one vehicle. The regular one locks to your VIN. It will do code reading and minor stuff on any Land Rover Range Rover but can't adjust ride height/perform module calibrations/Modify CCFs/etc... on anyone besides the one its locked to.
 

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From what I've seen it looks to be a straight swap. The plug in the back is the same and in the same location. Used they are only around 400 bucks on E-Bay.

I'm using the regular one. They only sell the Bluetooth enabled ones now.
Its actually a buck cheaper on Amazon

Pro is only if you want to do more then one vehicle. The regular one locks to your VIN. It will do code reading and minor stuff on any Land Rover Range Rover but can't adjust ride height/perform module calibrations/Modify CCFs/etc... on anyone besides the one its locked to.
Thanks and agreed... doesn’t look too bad. When I get my next 3 projects finished (retractable running boards, body-colored bottom trim prices, heated windshield), the digital dash and adaptive cruise are next up.
 
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