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Trying to figure out an intermittent whining noise coming from the engine bay of a 2007 L322 when the A/C is on. It's not the fans. It's a different noise. The old compressor was busted and had that noise too so we changed it but even with the new compressor the noise is still there. We also changed the 2 belts and the intermittent whining sound still has not gone away. Odd thing though when a little water was poured over the belt the noise went away. Only happens when the A/C is on.

This is also a Dubai Version of the L322. I heard there is a difference in the A/C unit for the desert models?
 

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My 2006 RR has the same (and what seems to be exact) issue. I am taking it to the shop next week. Will report back with the resolution, I hope.
 

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Is it some kind of a whistle/moan sound that comes and goes if you turn the A/C on and off? My 06 has it as well, sounds like its coming from directly in front of the driver (LHD) in the engine compartment. Never been able to figure it out, although lately I've either become deaf to it, or its gone away. The only change I've ever made to the A/C system (did it early this summer) was to add a few more oz. of refrigerant, as the system was a little low. Maybe its a moan caused by an slight undercharge. I'll make a point to listen for it today, although its about 40F around here now so the A/C isn't going to be taxed this time of year.
 

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Curious as well. I had the same noise over the Summer every time I turned my AC on. I too added freon due to being too low. I did check to ensure I did not overfill. My next move was to replaced the AC compressor thinking it is going out but I left it alone as it is now Fall and winter soon. So I may replace it next Spring unless someone comes up with a resolution for the noise.
 

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Turn off recirc and retest.

Does it persist?
Does it only happen in motion?

It’s a cowl seal if only at interstate speeds during recirc


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Could it be another pulley in the system - which is loaded more when the compressor clutch is engaged?
 

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Mine is more apparent when stationary with or without recirc on. It does coincide with the ac clutch engaging. No noise while driving down the street or hwy but that just maybe because I cannot hear it while moving.
 

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Mine is more apparent when stationary with or without recirc on. It does coincide with the ac clutch engaging. No noise while driving down the street or hwy but that just maybe because I cannot hear it while moving.
I’m trying to fingerprint what it could possibly be. You said it cycles with the compressor. Got it.

There are a few things it could be. Compressors can be noisy when low on refrigerant. If they simply recovered the old or short changed you on the refill, this is possible. Car a/c compressors don’t have a board that locks it out under low pressure. It keeps dumb cycling until climate control says temp is reached. Guaranteed there’s **** in the expansion valve.

Expansion valves can make a hissing noise, if the old compressor failed there’s probably a bunch of **** in your lines. Recommend changing expansion valve and charging NEW refrigerant.

Got my a/c back from being done and everything was ice cold. Few weeks later found out my rear A/C never got cold. Killed the new compressor; changed under warranty.


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I have encountered this noise 5 or 6 times on various Range Rovers and a couple of other makes and in every case it was caused by low refrigerant and solved by a re-gas. The air cond shop I use say that these cars dont like the old fashioned way of charging the system according to pressure but rather do it by weight.

However the original poster says his noise went away after pouring water on the belts which may be a different issue.
 

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I have encountered this noise 5 or 6 times on various Range Rovers and a couple of other makes and in every case it was caused by low refrigerant and solved by a re-gas. The air cond shop I use say that these cars dont like the old fashioned way of charging the system according to pressure but rather do it by weight.

However the original poster says his noise went away after pouring water on the belts which may be a different issue.
I will take it in to the dealer so they can evacuate the system and recharge it properly. That makes the most sense to me because the noise only comes when the clutch engages, and goes away when it disengages.
 

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Depending on the motor installed (JLR 4.4 or 5.0), a possible cause of this type of noise may be from one of the bearings within one of the two idler pulleys or from the belt tensioner pulley bearing.

Despite being an inexpensive part, idler pulleys are rarely changed (unless identified as noisy) when the serpentine belt is replaced.

Rockauto.com lists numerous aftermarket replacement idler pulley options.
 

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Dealer said $600 for the AC recharge. I said good to know, reminds me why I have not been there in years.
 

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Dealer said $600 for the AC recharge. I said good to know, reminds me why I have not been there in years.
Some places charge that for a new compressor, installed.

Just because you drive a USED luxury car doesn’t mean you’re stupid. You’re smart.

The most extortionate retail rates for refrigerant shouldn’t exceed $75/lb and you might not even need that much. Anything over $100 for labor (it won’t even take an hour) is ****ing ridiculous.

Anyone know the hours for that job?


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I just got the AC serviced at a local shop. $19.99 per pound and $159 Labor basically for evac and refill. The noise is gone! They said it was previously overcharged by 4 ounces. @ghur is right about these vehicles needing to be charged by weight and not by pressure/temp. Even though I took caution when topping it up, I did overfill it.
 

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Mine A/C is pretty noisy. Actually stopped working this summer so I charged with a can of RedTek ($60kit). Blows cubes but I did an OIL test (hit the service valve with a mini capture can) and that showed low.So I am wondering if everyone here has the system oil level to spec. Also once the bearing starts to go on the compressor - you'd think a new comp is order. I am going to add some oil first I guess go from there.

The system freewheels until the clutch pulls in the compressor. Then the full unit is rotating of course. A low pressure interlock/sensor prevents the compressor from pulling in if there is insufficient refrigerant R134a. Redtek stuff is universal fill, works with all systems.
 
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